Good Craigslist Score? + PCB ID Help + Advice

M3Patterns

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Hello! I just got this box of 20 PCBs last week for $150 (Pic) The PCBs are:

Enduro Racer (Front) (Back)
World Rally [x2] (PCB1) (PCB2)
Midnight Resistance (Pic)
NBA Jam (Pic)
Tekken 2 (Pic)
Paint 'N Puzzle (Pic) (Pic2)
Heavy Barrel (Front)(Back)
SFII [Unknown Version] (Pic)
Two Crude (Pic)
Beer Frame Bowling (Pic)
Gyruss (Pic)
Slickshot (Pic)
Chicken Dash (Pic)

I also got these PCBs that I can't tell what they are:

Unknown 1 (Pic)
Unknown 2 (Pic) (Pic2)
Unknown 3 (Pic)
Unknown 4 (Pic)
Unknown 5 (Pic)
Unknown 6 (Pic)

I'm don't have anything Jamma right now, so they are untested (although some of them have stickers on them that say working.) The gentleman I got them from said some worked, but his forte was building Multi cabs and restoring popular games (Ms Pacman, etc.) so I'm not sure how well he tested them or if he tested all of them. He said in his ad that he picked most of these up from a storage auction and had no need for them.

So a few questions (if you don't mind, as I'm kinda new to this. :) )

Good deal? I figured that even if none of them worked, $7.50 a board wasn't bad.

I bought them to sell most of them and keep just a few, as I've been looking for a Street Fighter cab I could use for Jamma and/or build a Supergun. Should I wait to sell them down the road when I could test them or just sell them untested?

If anyone could help with PCB identification, that would be great (including IDing which version of Street Fighter I have.) Also, if anyone could look at the boards and see if anything is missing, that would be great as well.

If anyone is interested in any of this, let me know (if that's okay to put that here) as I will most likely be putting this on the marketplace and/or eBay soon.


Thanks for any help!
-Josh
 
Thanks so much!

The first unknown is a Namco System 11, and I just found out there is just about no way to tell which game it is without loading it up.

I couldn't find any more info about the 2nd unknown, but since it's most likely from a video poker machine, that's all I need to know.

I found out that the 4th unknown is a Fruit Bonus 96 Special.

Already halfway done (and 5 isn't a PCB so more than halfway there.) Just 3, 5, & 6 left.


Thanks again LUCKYMAN and Adamdiz!
 
LyonsArcade,

I don't how you knew that, but that's great. I can't wait to enjoy the "out of the park earnings!"

Thanks so much!
 
Alright, I did some investigation of my own, and number 3 is Raiden.

That leaves the odd part of number 5.

So, does anyone think I got a good deal? Should I test or sell untested?


Thanks everyone. I really appreciate it!
 
which version of Street Fighter I have.) Also, if anyone could look at the boards and see if anything is missing, that would be great as well.

Looks like a bootleg Street Fighter II.

The NBA Jam is missing the sound board. However, they get bought and sold w/o a sound board all the time.
 
very nice score I think. I also think you should build yourself a jamma test station, because I'm interested in that Tekken board....
 
If you have the means you always want to test the boards as a working board will bring in more money than a non working board. I suppose if none of the boards worked you might lose money as there aren't a ton of people looking for dead boards. Other than that scenario you should make a profit even if you keep a couple.

It's also a good idea to shoot video of the board working. That way you have proof that it did before you shipped it in case it arrives and does not work. While a refund may still be in order in a situation of this kind it's still nice to have a degree of proof that the board did work.
 
Thanks guys! I'm glad I got a deal, then.

If you have the means you always want to test the boards as a working board will bring in more money than a non working board. I suppose if none of the boards worked you might lose money as there aren't a ton of people looking for dead boards. Other than that scenario you should make a profit even if you keep a couple.

It's also a good idea to shoot video of the board working. That way you have proof that it did before you shipped it in case it arrives and does not work. While a refund may still be in order in a situation of this kind it's still nice to have a degree of proof that the board did work.

Thanks for the advice about the video. I didn't think that a board would go dead in shipment, but with all the components, I'm sure it happens occasionally.

I just bought a Supergun from shadwolf (perfect timing) so I'll be able to test all of these. I'd rather sell them that way then it be a gamble for the buyer.

Thanks everyone again!
 
Game 6 May be Blank

I noticed that the EPROM covers were missing on Game 6.

If you used a flash for the pictures, you may have blanked the EPROMs. Even with the covers, the EM pulse of some flashes can wipe an EPROM (or at least give it missing bits so it won't work).

Sorry to be the "doomsayer" on this one, but it may be toast.
 
If you used a flash for the pictures, you may have blanked the EPROMs. Even with the covers, the EM pulse of some flashes can wipe an EPROM (or at least give it missing bits so it won't work).

Doesn't pass the 'sniff-test' to me (that is... smells like bullshit).

EPROMs are designed to be erased by UV light, short wavelength. While I'm sure a camera flash outputs some amount of UV energy at/near the proper wavelengths... it only lasts a tiny fraction of a second. Seems very unlikely to me to cause erasure. (If it did, no one would need to buy an eraser, we'd just use camera flashes.)

If I'm bored next weekend, I'll program an EPROM and wear out my old camera flash taking close-up pics of it to see if I can corrupt the data...
 
Doesn't pass the 'sniff-test' to me (that is... smells like bullshit).

EPROMs are designed to be erased by UV light, short wavelength. While I'm sure a camera flash outputs some amount of UV energy at/near the proper wavelengths... it only lasts a tiny fraction of a second. Seems very unlikely to me to cause erasure. (If it did, no one would need to buy an eraser, we'd just use camera flashes.)

If I'm bored next weekend, I'll program an EPROM and wear out my old camera flash taking close-up pics of it to see if I can corrupt the data...

Be prepared to spend the whole weekend trying... the camera flash won't erase EPROMs.

A camera flash is (typically) a Xenon tube, which has almost no UV output (is relatively flat in the visible range, which is why it's good as a flash, peaky in the IR range, but essentially non-existent in the UV range). EPROMs require intense UV-C light to erase, which is the shortest UV wavelength (farthest from the visible spectrum). If a flash could erase EPROMs, then people would be getting sunburns from getting their picture taken. The sun on the other hand CAN erase EPROMs... but slowly.

If you really wanted to do a test, just take a Xenon strobe light, program the entire chip with 0s, set the EPROM on the strobe light, and let it run all weekend. At the end, read it, and look for 1s. I'd be REALLY surprised if ANY bits had erased, even in that extremely unrealistic test. Even if it does, take into consideration the inverse square law for a realistic camera distance, and assume that someone isn't planning on taking 20 photos per second for 48 hours straight.

DogP
 
These are now all up for sale! Thanks again for the help!

Also (if anyone was wondering) I did not use a camera flash taking these pictures. :)
 
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