Golden tee/silver strike issues

Nixpaints

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I have a silver strike 2005 cabinet that I am attempting to add Gt complete (red board) with a 2-1 jamma switcher. Before I hook up to the switcher I tested each game individually. Ssb works with no issues. When I hookup the Gt it loads and comes on the screen but none of the buttons work (trackball works). I can't figure out why the jamma would work on ssb and not golden tee? I'm a newb and this is my first cab so any help would be awesome.
Thanks
Lee
 
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might want to check where the grounds are hooked up on your edge connector. On some of those Golden Tee boards the pins are not even there so if the control panel grounds are supposed to get ground reference from the board at those positions that might explain why it doesnt work. Also could be a board problem and without seeing the board theres no telling "where" the problem might be.
 
The board does not get power or ground from pins 1-4, same as the silver strike. Pins 27&28 do have ground to them. How do I diagnose if it's a board problem?
 

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if the control panel get its ground reference from pins 1/2/A/B then they wont work when the red board is connected (thats the golden Tee board, right?).

Its easy enough to figure out. With the red board attached and power on check for voltage at any of the buttons. You should get 4.2VDC or greater when measuring across any of the switches (with the switch open and not depressed). If you have voltage you likely have a board problem but I'm going to guess that you wont. Easy way to fix this is to tie all eight ground wires together on your JAMMA harness in the cab. Assuming that the harness has all 8 positions filled. First four and last four on each side (top and bottom). See this link for JAMMA pinout for a better explanation.

http://tinyurl.com/jpx2bzz
 
Yes the red board is golden tee. I should tie the grounds to 1/2/a/b even though the board has no pins there? As of now they are all tied to pins 27&28. The jamma connector has the ground wires clipped off on the power side. The buttons do work fine on silver strike. I'll run a meter to the buttons tomorrow and report back.
 

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Yea Darren I saw ur post, that's what gave me the motivation to do this! What I don't understand is why you spliced into the player two joystick? Also did you need to supply power to the 2-1 switcher? I haven't been able to test mine yet due to the golden tee problem
 
Yes the red board is golden tee. I should tie the grounds to 1/2/a/b even though the board has no pins there? As of now they are all tied to pins 27&28. The jamma connector has the ground wires clipped off on the power side. The buttons do work fine on silver strike. I'll run a meter to the buttons tomorrow and report back.

No need to tie the wires together since some one already did the work. Those cut wires that have been moved should all have good ground on them when the Golden Tee is plugged in. Thats not good news for your GT board....

Lets see what the voltage tests look like when you do them.
 
maybe its just the angle and shadows but I see corrosion on U56 right there by the edge connector. That would be one of the many input IC's so if its damaged or un soldered that could be why the buttons dont work.
 
Yea Darren I saw ur post, that's what gave me the motivation to do this! What I don't understand is why you spliced into the player two joystick? Also did you need to supply power to the 2-1 switcher? I haven't been able to test mine yet due to the golden tee problem

That's easy. I used those for the trackball connections. As SSB or GT do not use those I felt safe in "piggybacking". If you look close I have used a old Floppy power connector, (only the middle 4 connections) It was just my way of providing better isolation between boards.

As for power... Honestly I can not remember. I kind of think that the Switcher was powered from the main JAMMA harness not a Game Harness. So if that was true Yes it needed power..... But don't quote me on that.
 
Yea gamefixer u called it. Corrosion on the input IC's. No voltage at the switches. I'll try to clean em up and test again. Looks like an easy replacement if cleaning and soldering doesn't work but how do I know that they didn't cause additional damage to the pcb? Just purchased this board on eBay as a supposedly working unit.
 

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Hmm.... Even with those IC's bad you should see voltage at the switches. Unless the damage has also effected the pull up resistors.

Can you try this. Put your red probe from your meter on one of the switch wires (not the black/common/GND wire) and put the black probe on a good ground on that edge connector. See if you get voltage that way. If you do then you need to follow the control panel grounds back to see why they are not connected when the GT board is plugged in.

You could also try this. With the game off put your meter on continuity test. One probe on the common wire along the buttons and the other probe on a good ground on that edge connector. It should show as shorted. If not then follow that control panel ground wire back to where its terminated.
 
Okay fixed the ground problem, old jamma connector wasn't making good contact on the pins. Must have been coincidentally while I was testing. I now have power to all the switches, 4.9v, but they still aren't working on the game?
 
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Okay fixed the ground problem, old jamma connector wasn't making good contact on the pins. Must have been coincidentally while I was testing. I now have power to all the switches, 4.9v, but they still aren't working on the game?

Boards probably bad. You could try shorting the pins on the edge connector to ground just to be sure but it sounds like its bad to me. That corrosion is a dead giveaway.

I think I might have a red board in my shop. I dont know if it works or not but you can have it for the cost of shipping if you want it. If its good you should be able to swap parts over to get the game going.
 
Sweet, thanks gamefixer! How do I diagnose what part(s) are bad? Pm sent
 
looks like theres obvious damage on that LS541 (aka 74LS541) at U56. Since you have voltage at the switches the pull up resistors are good (at least on the switches that you tested).

Upside is that if I find the board I have and it works you wont have to mess with this one unless you want too. Removing those IC's with traditional soldering tools is doable but not real easy. You could damage the board further if youre not careful.
 
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