Golden Tee '99 Monitor Question

Lindyperm

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I recently picked up what looks like a homemade Golden Tee '99 cabinet. The game plays pretty well, minus the normal trackball noise. The one thing that I did notice was that the screen seemed a bit fuzzy and unfocused. I know that most of the monitors have adjusters on them. The concern was when I pulled the back of the unit off and looked at a few of the adjustment knobs. They almost looked burnt or charred? Please see attached picture for reference. Am I safe to try to adjust these knobs, or should I not touch them?

Thanks!
 

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I recently picked up what looks like a homemade Golden Tee '99 cabinet. The game plays pretty well, minus the normal trackball noise. The one thing that I did notice was that the screen seemed a bit fuzzy and unfocused. I know that most of the monitors have adjusters on them. The concern was when I pulled the back of the unit off and looked at a few of the adjustment knobs. They almost looked burnt or charred? Please see attached picture for reference. Am I safe to try to adjust these knobs, or should I not touch them?

Thanks!

You can try to adjust them. You won't get shocked if you're just touching those knobs
 
Could someone tell me if this game would benefit from a LCD swap if I can't get the current monitor to clear up? The current monitor wasn't mounted in the ideal position and before I dig into moving it, wondering if I am better off just upgrading it. Any opinions for this newbie would be appreciated.
 
in order to swap to an LCD, you will need a converter for the LCD vga cable to plug into.
then the converter will plug into the game board

they can be found on ebay for about 25 bucks and I have had great luck with them contrary to other peoples bad time with the converter

here a link to one that I would buy:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Video-Conve...755103&hash=item1a0bcf89e4:g:~UgAAOSwKtlWjIZg

if the focus knob there on the flyback does not sharpen the image then you need a new flyback transformer and while youre doing that, might as well replace all the capacitors on the monitor chassis too. cap kits can be found and Security101 here on the forum sells them but I don't know his correct name. they are cheap enough too

if you go the LCD route
the toughest part is getting the sync wires going to the right place
thread here someplace explaining that
once you have the red blue green wires going to the right place, you can attach the sync with the game on to get it right without frying anything but read up on it first good luck

oh and you can get LCD's off craigslist for 25/50 bucks all day long

will the game benefit ?
technically, the signal going through a converter will slow it down
some say they can tell
I cant tell

would I even play a golden tee 99 ? no. but so what
if you like it then go for it

I myself use a plastic screwdriver whenever mucking about back there while adjusting anything
they can be had from radio shack if they even exist anymore
one thing you do want to read up on is discharging the tube before taking the chassis out or you might get badly shocked
please please read up on this if you don't know about this PLEASE

good luck
 
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splattergatz - so if I just want to move the monitor closer to the plexi glass by putting additional blocking on the wooden frame, would I need to discharge the monitor or as long as I don't have the machine plugged in and don't go near the back of the monitor will I be okay?
 
splattergatz - so if I just want to move the monitor closer to the plexi glass by putting additional blocking on the wooden frame, would I need to discharge the monitor or as long as I don't have the machine plugged in and don't go near the back of the monitor will I be okay?


no discharge needed to put shims in. if you need the cap kit and flyback i have them in stock and are you sure that original flyback isn't arcing to the pcb?
 
splattergatz - so if I just want to move the monitor closer to the plexi glass by putting additional blocking on the wooden frame, would I need to discharge the monitor or as long as I don't have the machine plugged in and don't go near the back of the monitor will I be okay?

some monitors self discharge and some do not
that part of my brain that I use to remember that kind of stuff melted away a long, long time ago. I discharge them all just to be sure and then I discharge them 3 more times just in case.

you will probably be ok. I made my discharger from a screwdriver and a long bit of wire that grounds to the monitor frame and attaches very tightly to the screwdriver shaft(clamp it super tight if you don't weld it to the screwdriver). probably cost a dollar because I already had the screwdriver. then I slip the screwdriver underneath the suction cup with the red wire coming out that goes to the flyback.
I don't take chances anymore but you will probably be ok. if you plan on working with monitors in the future, a discharge tool should be in your toolbox.
you will be ok, most probably. just be careful to just touch the frame and you be ok

let us know how you come out plz
some are curious as to what you invent
pics or it didn't happen
:)

oh yes, don't forget to unplug the whole shebang from the wall while you gots your hands in there
 
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You have a 25" Wells-Gardner K7000 monitor. Yours has an original flyback that looks bad and it also has original capacitors.
 
OK, I was able to adjust the focus a bit on the back of the monitor using the knobs in the picture and the game looks much clearer on the front side. The comments above though make it sound like the monitor is bad or should be replaced. Am I good to continue using the monitor as is or am I taking a risk of damaging the machine if I don't?
 
OK, I was able to adjust the focus a bit on the back of the monitor using the knobs in the picture and the game looks much clearer on the front side. The comments above though make it sound like the monitor is bad or should be replaced. Am I good to continue using the monitor as is or am I taking a risk of damaging the machine if I don't?


personally if you wait you run the risk of doing damage to more components and i would rebuild it which is flyback, cap kit, and reflow.

cap kit
https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.co...kits/wells-gardner-k7000-series-cap-kit-105c/

flyback
https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.co...x0528-001-wells-gardner-k7000-series-flyback/

reflowing properly
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ijwL3kkw1A
 
OK, that isn't what I was hoping to hear. Being new to all this stuff, I have no idea on how to repair any of that and I have already found it hard to find someone to work on this stuff locally in WI. Also, not sure it is worth spending a bunch of $ on a Golden Tee '99 machine. I was really just hoping I could play it for a year or so before I convert the cabinet to a MAME machine.
 
Wells-Gardner K7000 monitor

that is one of those monitors that self-discharge. you are safe to much about back there. just unplug from wall when you do

The comments above though make it sound like the monitor is bad or should be replaced. Am I good to continue using the monitor as is or am I taking a risk of damaging the machine if I don't?

almost every monitor these days needs to have the oil changed so to speak.
One has to factor that in when purchasing any arcade game these days unless of course the seller knows that a cap kit has been done already or whatever.

if you are happy with the image, then you are good to go to continue using it.
So what if it blows up. you can come here and get the knowledge you will need to fix it or you can put an LCD into it which will make it easy if you convert it to a multi board.

good luck
 
One thing people always forget when it comes to a fuzzy monitor is not just adjusting the focus, but also cleaning the screen. Cleaning the screen can make a WORLD of difference.
 
OK, I think I am going to try to replace the scratch up plexi on the front (and clean the monitor) and then try to shim the monitor closer to the plexi for now. If/when it does give out, I know where to come to get some advice on my next steps. Thanks again everyone for the help and advice. Greatly appreciated!
 
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