Golden Tee 3D Monitor Issues

wayneman73

New member
Joined
Sep 24, 2010
Messages
3
Reaction score
0
Location
New Jersey
I bought a Golden Tee 3D and the monitor seems to get blurry the longer it stays on. I see the pigtail that allows me to change some settings but it will not clear up the blurriness.

I have 2 questions.....one is is there another way to adjust the monitor and two is where could I get another monitor?

I have attached a picture of the monitor because I have no idea what type it is.

Any information is appreciated!
 

Attachments

  • IMG00354.jpg
    IMG00354.jpg
    31.1 KB · Views: 10
  • IMG00355.jpg
    IMG00355.jpg
    26.9 KB · Views: 10
  • 1.jpg
    1.jpg
    39.7 KB · Views: 11
  • 2.jpg
    2.jpg
    38.3 KB · Views: 11
  • 4.jpg
    4.jpg
    42.7 KB · Views: 11
Last edited:
if it gets progressively blurry or the brightness varies significantly, it's symptomatic of a failing flyback. also, when dealing with arcade monitors, never focus on the tube itself cause those are generic and are produced by a variety of TV manufacturers and have zero to do with what's driving the image on screen.

focus on the main deflection board, neckboard, sometimes even remote board, etc. any and all model tags you find on those, but usually KLOVers can identify them by picture.

also, as long as your tube is good (your red green and blue primaries look good) then you're better off FIXING the chassis that you have now. new flybacks are easy to install. take a picture of the board on the bottom of the monitor frame though.
 
Yes the colors seem fine. It is just the bluriness and brightness as you say below.

I have attached more pics as you suggested.

Can you suggest somewhere I would be able to order these things from? Which would you suggest I replace first?

Last, how hard are these items to replace? Do I need to be a rocket scientist?
 
looks like a Wells-Gardner... look for a small white label on the sides of the chassis that say like WG-25K75 or something along those lines. I don't know what res GT 3D is.

as for being a rocket scientist, no, not so much. :) handy with a soldering iron (and solder sucker) and resourceful? yes.

flybacks are easy as long as you're comfortable with discharging a monitor, disconnecting all attached components, etc. one thing I've found from the flybacks I've done recently is the G2 wire doesn't come with a connector that attaches to the pin on the neckboard, I wound up desoldering the pin out and hardwiring it. some other users on here have suggested doing so, so I was correct at least.

you could alternatively send the chassis/neckboard/remote board out for repair, but that still requires discharging the monitor and the other disassembly involved. I'd ask around here for someone more experienced that lives close to help you do it, but nothing beats the learning experience of figuring out how to do it yourself.

EDIT: and I forgot to add, I get my parts from www.therealbobroberts.net now. but you won't know what you need until you properly identify what you've got.
 
Last edited:
looks like a Wells-Gardner... look for a small white label on the sides of the chassis that say like WG-25K75 or something along those lines. I don't know what res GT 3D is.

GT 3D is standard res. I agree, the monitor looks like a Wells-Gardner 25k75xx to me.

as for being a rocket scientist, no, not so much.

Why not? --> http://www.odordestroyer.com/personal/tsand/ :D

one thing I've found from the flybacks I've done recently is the G2 wire doesn't come with a connector that attaches to the pin on the neckboard

Ditto. I cut off the connector and made a splice in the wire.
 
Last edited:
Sorry for all the questions as I am a newbie........is it possible to swap out the crt with a regular CRT monitor or TV or an LCD or Plasma?
 
Yes, but the results will not be good and it will be far more trouble and expense that repairing it. By CRT monitor, I assume you mean a VGA monitor? For starters, you're in for a 25" VGA monitor and CGA-VGA adapter, neither of which are cheap. The picture will suffer from scaling. For the TV, it would need to be Svideo at minimum, and you're still in for an video adapter. As before, the picture will suffer from conversion.

The flyback is a simple repair. If you're not up for the repair, pull the chassis and send it to Modessit or ArcadeCup.
 
Last edited:
if it's standard res it's either going to be a K7400 or a U2000. it doesn't have the jumper plug that the U5000 has, and honestly, closer resembles the K7400 (more streamlined than the U series) but... what do I know? :)

the numbers you seek now are 25K20 or 25K74
 
Back
Top Bottom