Golden Tee 2k - where do I start?

T0mmyT

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As I posted in my New Member Intro, my wife found this for free on the side of the road.
I'm not sure where to start. Someone suggested I check out this website. But even here, I'm not sure where to start.
I'm tempted to plug it in and see what happens. But are there any steps I could take first? Unplug connections and plug them in one at a time? Etc.
Any measurements or continuity checks with a meter I should do before plugging in?
I could pull the two fuses.
On the floor is a Golden Tee '98 Installation Manual. I'm not sure if that's the same or different than what I have or how useful it will be (obviously I haven't opened the manual yet).

Thanks for the look and for any advice or information you have to offer.
 

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That was originally a Konami game that turned into an Atari Primal Rage upright at some point.
 
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Disconnect the JAMMA harness from the PCB, plug that SOB in and see what happens :)
 
As I posted in my New Member Intro, my wife found this for free on the side of the road.
I'm not sure where to start. Someone suggested I check out this website. But even here, I'm not sure where to start.
I'm tempted to plug it in and see what happens. But are there any steps I could take first? Unplug connections and plug them in one at a time? Etc.
Any measurements or continuity checks with a meter I should do before plugging in?
I could pull the two fuses.
On the floor is a Golden Tee '98 Installation Manual. I'm not sure if that's the same or different than what I have or how useful it will be (obviously I haven't opened the manual yet).

Thanks for the look and for any advice or information you have to offer.

Welcome to the forum

First, your cabinet was likely a Main Event or Crime Fighters cabinet. The JAMMA harness is actually that of a Midway machine (Mortal Kombat II etc). The power side of the Harness has been spliced into the original Konami side. I would personally try to fire it up and see what happens.
 
Disconnect the JAMMA harness from the PCB, plug that SOB in and see what happens :)

Welcome to the forum

First, your cabinet was likely a Main Event or Crime Fighters cabinet. The JAMMA harness is actually that of a Midway machine (Mortal Kombat II etc). The power side of the Harness has been spliced into the original Konami side. I would personally try to fire it up and see what happens.

(forgive me - I'm a story teller)
I disconnected the JAMMA harness and put power to it. I didn't hear anything. But there's a switch on the inside. I was guessing it was some sort of 'door closed'-safety switch so I pushed that in and heard the monitor start humming. w00t!
I put the JAMMA harness back on and tried to use a clamp to hold the switch in. Not sure what happened there but nothing would work for a bit.
I pulled the JAMMA harness, unplugged the cabinet, checked the fuses. They were ok. I plugged it back in and pushed the switch and heard the monitor hum. So back to where I started.
I then put the JAMMA harness back in and pushed in the switch. I heard the hum and got blinky lights on the PCB!
'course the switch is too far away for me to see what's happening on the monitor. I pulled a muscle in my back trying to hold it and peek. Ugh.
So got my wife and had her video while I held the switch.
It works!!
One of the text lines on the screen says "high voltage".
And there's this wide band that travels from the lower right to upper left.

But it "works". :D
 
You are off to a good start. The "switch" is an interlock switch for safety purposes. You can actually pull on it and it will stay popped out allowing power to the game. Just be careful, it is live at this point.

Next step is to check the power supply to ensure the game board (PCB) is getting 5V and 12V. It is best to check the voltage at the PCB. The user manual should have a pinout (wiring harness) showing what wires carry the 5V and 12V to the PCB. The 5V is adjustable and you want to target 5.0V to 5.1V. This is done by turning the white knob on the black box (power supply) on the bottom of the cabinet. Don't crank up the 5V past 5.2V because you can damage the game board.

I think at this point I would try and coin-up the game....report back if you see anything on the monitor or you can hear the game playing but nothing on the monitor. You can try tweaking the brightness on the monitor. There is a remote adjust board laying in the bottom of your cabinet (white plastic piece) connected to the monitor by those black wires to adjust the monitor brightness and other attributes.

Good luck!
 
You are off to a good start. The "switch" is an interlock switch for safety purposes. You can actually pull on it and it will stay popped out allowing power to the game. Just be careful, it is live at this point.

Next step is to check the power supply to ensure the game board (PCB) is getting 5V and 12V. It is best to check the voltage at the PCB. The user manual should have a pinout (wiring harness) showing what wires carry the 5V and 12V to the PCB. The 5V is adjustable and you want to target 5.0V to 5.1V. This is done by turning the white knob on the black box (power supply) on the bottom of the cabinet. Don't crank up the 5V past 5.2V because you can damage the game board.

I think at this point I would try and coin-up the game....report back if you see anything on the monitor or you can hear the game playing but nothing on the monitor. You can try tweaking the brightness on the monitor. There is a remote adjust board laying in the bottom of your cabinet (white plastic piece) connected to the monitor by those black wires to adjust the monitor brightness and other attributes.

Good luck!
Thanks for the heads-up on that switch!
It was mounted so that it was pointing down. I told my wife I was going to rotate it so that it's against the back door and noticed there was a hole already there! So I rotated it.

Tonite I unplugged the JAMMA harness and pulled out the switch to turn it on. I measured it at the PS. I know it's better at the board but I figured I'd get it to a safe place first. It was at 5.5V. I turned it down to 5.0V.
I plugged in the JAMMA harness and pulled out the switch to turn it on. It now reported low voltage. I turned the knob a bit. While I assumed it would update "live", I reached a point where I felt like I had turned it a bit. So I toggle the switch. Did that a few times until it reported Voltage OK. I measured it at the PS again and it was at 5.4V. Higher than I was expecting. But again, it was at the PS and not at the PCB.

So next is figuring out how to clean up the ball.
 
My Golden Tee Trackball
I opened her up and cleaned her as best as I could. I didn't do anything to the bearings except for wipe them to get any debris off of them.
After cleaning, the link above is what I get. Seems like it's "not enough". Before I put them back on I put them on the rod and gave them a spin and was underwhelmed.
I've read (and watched) some conflicting stuff. What's everyone's recommendation? I bought some 3-in-1 oil.
Do I
- soak them in the oil for a day and then wipe them clean?
- soak them first in WD40 and then in the oil?
- soak them first in acetone and then in oil?
- chuck 'em and buy new ones?
- chuck 'em and buy new one and soak those in WD40 or acetone and then in oil?
Thanks.
 
I got the trackball all cleaned up. I took it apart, wiped the bearings with a rag to get the gunk off of them. Took some windex to the trackball.
I opted not to oil them yet - to see how they work. My son thinks they work fine. I feel like it chatters too much. Debating about just buying new.
They never grounded the trackball bearings. The green wires were just hanging there unstripped.
I put it back together, grounded those wires and fired it up.

I am happy to report we've played our first games.
Not sure I'll keep it a Golden Tee forever, but it works for right now.

I stumbled upon one of the issues I had above when I first plugged it in. My boys came over recently and I plugged it in to play. I didn't hear the 'pop' of the CRT right away. I jiggled the plug and heard the pop. I wasn't sure if it was coincidence. Then a few days later I went to modify the coin/credit info. I plugged it in and it didn't turn on. I moved the cord near the plug and heard the pop. When I was done I took the plug apart. Sure enough, one of the wires had broken. I probably could've reused the plug but thought I'd by a new one.

Question 1 - free on the side of the road didn't come with keys to the coin/service doors. I took a screw driver from the back to undo the latch to open one of the service doors. There' s a QC sticker with "Coin Controls, Inc." and a phone number on it. I wasn't sure if there might be markings elsewhere to tell me "the key" I need. Do I just buy 4 new or is there a way to find the right key? (Note that I believe this was originally a The Main Event)
If I buy new, the existing are not tubular keys, but 'regular' keys. Probably a preference, but does it matter for any real reason?

Question 2 - while I can put it on free play, I went out and bought two rolls of quarters - just for the nostalgia of feeding my addiction. LOL There are two coin slot doors with 2 slots each. Are these normally all wired in parallel? I put it in Operator Mode and the graphic shows 3 coin slots. When I put quarters into the left slot of both doors, I see Coin Slot #1 blip. The right slots on both doors don't blip anything. The left door lets me hit the coin return. The right door takes the quarter but doesn't register.
 
Well the reason there is 3 is one is for a bill validator, basically a bill validator either clicks the switch 4 times when you put a dollar in it… well thats one way it can be set. The bill validator can kinda be a dummy and let thr game decide the situation or do most the work itself it depends on the board etc.

So you need to find the jamma schematics of your golden tee and trace what wires should be coin coin 1 coin 2 coin 3 it really dosent matter if one is not used or which ones are used for the quarter chutes as long as its set right with the game board settings something like coin 1 is one credit or 25 cents what have you etc… you can also simply jump them in parallel too that will work, however most people like it wired properly.
 
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