Golden Tee 2007 Live CRT problem

Zlost

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Hi all, I have a Golden Tee 2007 Live that started having lines on the top of the image on the main CRT screen. Before I could get in there and change the vertical circuit caps the image went to a blur, way out of focus to the point you just see a blur of light colors changing. The model is a Kortek KT-2914DF. Please don't ask me to adjust the focus, we all know that will not fix it.

If I can fix it that would be great. If not has anyone converted one of these to a newer LCD monitor?

Thanks in advance for your help.
 
Hi all, I have a Golden Tee 2007 Live that started having lines on the top of the image on the main CRT screen. Before I could get in there and change the vertical circuit caps the image went to a blur, way out of focus to the point you just see a blur of light colors changing. The model is a Kortek KT-2914DF. Please don't ask me to adjust the focus, we all know that will not fix it.

If I can fix it that would be great. If not has anyone converted one of these to a newer LCD monitor?

Thanks in advance for your help.

A tech at my other store said hes switched out a coupkle to lcds and they look fan freaking tastic. He said on the completes it makes a world of difference.
 
Could it be a cap kit for this chassis?
Not sure what caps would cause the out of focus issue I have.
 
After putting in the cap kit and doing some checking I found that the CRT is bad.
I don't think it's worth replacing the CRT, any companies out there swap these games out for newer/working ones?
 
I just got one that has the same way out of focus picture. It's in a Dance Revolution. Spotted a couple of burnt parts in the upper right corner of the board. Will be investigating.
 
Hi all, I have a Golden Tee 2007 Live that started having lines on the top of the image on the main CRT screen. Before I could get in there and change the vertical circuit caps the image went to a blur, way out of focus to the point you just see a blur of light colors changing. The model is a Kortek KT-2914DF. Please don't ask me to adjust the focus, we all know that will not fix it.

If I can fix it that would be great. If not has anyone converted one of these to a newer LCD monitor?

Thanks in advance for your help.

You might check the focus wire at the neck board is in tight.
I would lean more to flyback or cold solder joints on the fly the grounding pins
for Focus and screen pots. I dought its the tube..just my 2 cents..
I'm sure its time for a cap kit.if never replaced before.
replace the vertical ic and check R212 measure's correct may look overheated
and changed value and r206 is .47 .5 watt. and r207 is correct.
Even After caps and ic replaced still vertical issues,check the resistors.

I've replaced caps before and monitor dead or chirping and vertical ic
was shorted forcing the secondary voltages to go up and down.Unless you would
like to troubleshoot it after a cap kit,just add it to a repair.
Its on my parts list,along with a few other issues that fail on this model..
Its a good chassis to repair don't get me wrong.Tip don't factory reset untill
you have to it repaired first..it will alter the geometry and you will have to readjust it..
Good Luck!
 
So far these are bad on mine:

R206 burnt

R207 burnt to a crisp along with part of the board. At least I think this is R207. The board markings are burnt off too. This resistor is right in front facing the IC201 TDA8172 so I assume it is R207.

C205 blown out the top 470 uf @ 16 volt

I have not had time to test any other electrolytics.

I will be replacing the IC201 anyway since the burnt components connect to it. It crosses to an NTE 1788 which my local supplier should stock.
 
Is your flyback testing okay? I worked on a Kortek made for Vision Pro a while back that had a bunch of crispy parts, and the flyback was toasted - which probably caused it. Since I couldn't find another flyback, I didn't bother with the other parts...
 
So far these are bad on mine:

R206 burnt

R207 burnt to a crisp along with part of the board. At least I think this is R207. The board markings are burnt off too. This resistor is right in front facing the IC201 TDA8172 so I assume it is R207.

C205 blown out the top 470 uf @ 16 volt

I have not had time to test any other electrolytics.

I will be replacing the IC201 anyway since the burnt components connect to it. It crosses to an NTE 1788 which my local supplier should stock.

Good idea to replace all the caps in the 2xx block
of Ic201 bad caps can damage ic, I'v had D202 bad as well.. I suggest all caps in chassis
be replace at once,and the BP on neck board for best pic..all test bad with cap checker.
If thermal pad is cut up or wornout you can use a square insulator,using the same
screw in clamp. Nte OK Tda8172 becoming obsolete anyway.
 
Ohmerone,

you said to replace "BP on neck board for best pic". what is the location of the part and what is the part?

thanks
 
Ohmerone,

you said to replace "BP on neck board for best pic". what is the location of the part and what is the part?

thanks

Symptom, weak Color
maybe poor tint, even no primary color
Tube checks Ok
Video Amp Transistors not a suspect.


Its Location C801R

and C801G and C801B

all 1uf BP 100vs Electrolytic's

for each color, best to replace all.

I don't know if they come in any cap kit sold.

I know what some may be thinking!!

But you need whats there not + or - a uf won't hurt..

you need 1 uf PB 100vs..

They had the best shape waveform amplitude, without over or under kill.

Of coarse if still poor tracking you may need to clean and balance

the tube, Rejuv can be an issue if not properly clean off cathode first!!

When the tube test good I suspect these caps, found in other models

on neck boards.
 
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