Golden Tee 2005 - No green :(

midcoastsurf

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This color is somewhat important for a golf game. When I picked up the game, the screen was bright green when turned on (nothing hooked up, as the hard drive was broken). Now the screen has a bright red background with white text when turned on and booting up. I know the board is good because it was tested be a fellow KLOVer about a week ago on his machine.

After getting a new power supply hooked up and a new hard drive put in, the game boots up and plays fine, but there is no green color, just red and white. I checked the green/black wire that goes into the JAMMA connector for "green" and it is in there snug. I then pulled out a JAMMA pin that wasn't being used and plugged that into the green hole and re-spliced the wire just to make sure the connection was good at the board. I also checked the wiring up to the monitor and it seems ok. Maybe a cracked solder joint on the chassis for the header pins that this connector plugs into? The monitor is a 33" Pentranic model 1132.

Is there a way to test the output signal on the green wire to isolate this problem to the monitor area and not the JAMMA connector? I know a scope can do this, but I don't have a scope.

Thanks
 
If you haven't capped the monitor, do that. Reflow the input header pins, and check the green drive transistor and pots on the neckboard while doing so....
 
Can capping a monitor bring back a missing color? I'll definitely reflow the input header pins.

If anyone can provide me with a manual/schematic or pictures of the green drive section for this monitor, I would greatly appreciate it! I couldn't find anything online and the company has not responded to my email requests.

Thanks!
 
Uh...

If you have white, and it's a normal, pure white color then you don't have a monitor issue. It takes all 3 color lines: red, green, and blue to get a pure white color.

RJ
 
Looks like I need to take some pictures of the monitor then. I'm not sure if it's a "pure" white, but there is definitely white text on a red background.

Thanks
 
If it is white, then no you dont' have a monitor issue.

You can't even get anything close to white if you don't have green, red and blue can only make purple, lol.

If you turn up the green all the way on the monitor, you should get a washed out green picture. If you don't, something's wrong with the monitor.
 
So it is a monitor problem, but it isn't a monitor problem? There is a green drive knob on the flyback and a green drive pot on the neck board. The green drive pot on the neck board doesn't seem to change anything. The green drive on the flyback only makes the screen bright white with horizonal lines through it.
 
That's not a green drive pot on the flyback. That's your brightness control. If your tube had no green gun, you wouldn't get a white raster when you turn that up... so it must be that the monitor board isn't correctly displaying green.

If you have a diode function on your meter, measure the transistors on the neckboard of the chassis, also measure the resistors. You'll see everything up there has 3 sets, 1 for each color. So each circuit is identical, meaning you can take measurements on all three and see how the green circuit differs. It could be a pot is broken, or it could be the transistor is out, or there may be 'pre driver' transistors on the chassis down near where the green hooks up from the pcb. Somewhere from where that wire plugs in, to the tube socket, there's a break in the circuit.

Somebody want to weigh in and let me know if my logic's correct that he wouldn't get a white raster when he turns the brightness up if the tube was bad? It'd be reddish purple wouldn't it?
 
I'm guessing that I'll be measuring the transisors and resistors with the power off, especially since I'm going to use the diode function? It sounds like i'm checking resistance in the green circuit and looking for a break in the circuit?

Thanks for your patience and tips!
 
Yes, with the power off, just test everything that's in pairs of threes and see if anything is different. Also look for cold solder joints, etc.
 
The harness is correct, as I just re-did the wiring from the JAMMA connector up to the connector that plugs into the chassis. I did not change the wiring/connector that plugs into the chassis as I have seen the monitor produce a bright green screen before. (The wiring had been hacked in two places between the JAMMA connector and the chassis)
 
I'm by no means an expert, but I have a GT Fore and had this same problem with blue.

I'm at work and don't have access to my paperwork right now, but look at your board where the JAMMA plug attaches. If I remember right, blue is pin 13, green should be a pin or two away on either side. See if the traces look burnt on the board.

I've seen a few other machines with this same issue. Seems like when they take a power surge (I bought mine with a blow out power supply and the missing blue) that this part of the board is susceptible.
 
Tok,

Thanks for your reply! I have checked out the JAMMA traces on my board and they are clean and complete. My board was also tested by a fellow KLOV'er and it worked 100% for him on his machine about a week ago.

From this point, I am going to pull the chassis and do some testing as suggested by LyonsArcade.

Thanks for your help everyone! I'll post back my results and findings once I am able to test it.
 
I pulled the chassis and neck board for closer inspection. Two of the three transistors on the neckboard that control the three colors were a little loose. I could wiggle the transistor and noticed on the solder side that the legs were connected to the traces, but the traces had lifted off the board a little. I re-soldered all three transistors along with the header pins for the RGB input connector. Now I have lost "red" and the monitor only displays blue. Maybe I heated up the red transistor too much while re-soldering it? Is there a way to "ground" a transistor and have the color appear on the screen or another test I could do?

Thanks
 
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