Frax
New member
Well, we've certainly got a ton around here...that's a good idea. Might go check that one out.
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Please post all monitor technical topics in the Technical - Videogames - Monitors section, not in the General Help section.
Going to try to get a multimeter... <--Noob!
- Thread starter Frax
- Start date
Well, we've certainly got a ton around here...that's a good idea. Might go check that one out.
RetroHacker
Well-known member
If you're going to spend any serious money on a used meter, make sure it's working first. I *have* seen high dollar meters that don't work (i.e. someone blew it up doing something stupid, like trying to measure more current than it can handle, or too high a voltage). Touch the leads together in continuity test mode, make sure it registers. Carry a known good battery of some kind (like a AA) and check it on the DC volts setting, make sure you get a reading.
A non-working meter can usually be fixed easily, there are protection fuses and other things, but if you're paying good money for something, it had better work.
-Ian
A non-working meter can usually be fixed easily, there are protection fuses and other things, but if you're paying good money for something, it had better work.
-Ian
I have a Fluke model 12B that I bought off of eBay for around $50. It may be slight overkill, but it's been great to have. My first meter was a Rat Shack pocket meter with super short leads so stepping up to a Fluke model with nice leads was like night and day. The 12B can also do some capacitance tests.
Womble
Well-known member
Yes but this is not a useful test to have unless you are trying to ID unmarked caps, when electros die their capacitance does not change, its their equivalent series resistance (ESR) that goes high. Running over an amp section or monitor chassis with bad caps using a capacitance meter will not help.
I've used many meters... Craftsman, Sperry, Ideal... but my favorite is my Fluke. All are good meters. Just make sure it has the functions you need. Definately recommend auto range. But, one thing for sure, get one that takes a 9v battery. This may seem minor but, it makes a world of difference, especially if your testing transistors and diodes. The meters that take AA batt, usually only take 2. That's only 3v of juice. When testing transistors, you already have a .7 voltage drop and if your batteries are getting weak, you'll get false readings. Power transistors, like in pinball machines, there are 2 voltage drops (1.4v). Thats half your battery power. 9v batt meters don't have this problem. That's just my 2¢
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Duly noted. I re-read where Fromm talks about ESR meter's and cap testing in his Big Blue Book. I liked his review/endorsement of the 12B so I was able to find a new one for a good price on eBay and snagged it. I can't say that I use the cap test function on it all that often anyway, but it's good to know not to just trust that in the future.
