Going to try to fix my first monitor - Sanyo cap question

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Going to try to fix my first monitor - Sanyo cap question

Everyone,

I just picked up a really, really nice plywood Donkey Kong TKG4 cabinet, and although the game powers up fine, plays fine, and is in generally excellent shape, the monitor is having a few issues.

So - I'm going to attempt to fix it myself and see what I can learn in the process. I've done a bit of research, and I think that my attached pictures detail something called 'vertical fold' that supposedly is corrected with a cap kit.

Is this diagnosis correct? Following Dokert's Sanyo flow chart, I think I'm contemplating the proper repair. Any pointers for someone starting out? I've watched Youtube videos on monitor discharging and am prepared to do that and I have all of the soldering equipment to do the job. I'm no stranger to soldering - I've just not repaired a monitor before.

Thanks for any help - sorry to post up all n00b-like here... I'm just looking for confirmation one way or the other before I set out on what will be a very foreign (and time-consuming) experience for me. I'm really looking forward to learning the work - I just know I'm going to be slow and I want to make sure I'm doing the right thing.
 

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Yup - you definitely need to recap that monitor. It's got all the classic symptoms. Foldover, jailbars, etc.

Take your time, pay attention, and you'll be fine. The Sanyo is probably one of the harder monitors to work on, simply because it's such a pain to take apart. Take the monitor out of the cabinet if you need to.

Word of caution, there are two plugs that plug into the sound board on the monitor that are the same size. They should be labelled and the board itself is marked. DO NOT mix these two plugs up.

-Ian
 
Word of caution, there are two plugs that plug into the sound board on the monitor that are the same size. They should be labelled and the board itself is marked. DO NOT mix these two plugs up.

Just to add - if your monitor has the power cord that looks like it will plug into the wall outlet.... DO NOT plug it into the wall for testing or anything like that. Use the outlet IN THE CABINET. These are 100v isolated power monitors.

And save yourself some headache in getting the chassis out to work on...... go ahead and remove the neck guard and ONE of the side rails. (leave the other rail to stabilize the tube) This will give you some extra working room. Of course this is all easier if you just pull the whole monitor like Retrohacker suggested.
 

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Thank you guys - I appreciate your responses.

I'll definitely be pulling the monitor from the game and doing this on a bench. No way am I good enough at this point to do this kind of work with the monitor in the cabinet.

I do know about the voltage differences, so I plan on pulling the entire guts of the cabinet (it needs to be cleaned inside anyways) out and arranging it on my work bench and testing/adjusting everything on the bench using the nintendo power supply. Once all is working, then I'll just put it all back in. I think that's going to be easier for a first-timer such as myself. I've got a few Nintendo cabinets to work on, so it might be good to build a bench setup. anyways.

Thanks!
 
I don't even bother to try and leave it in the cab. Nintendo makes it so easy to remove and replace why bother. Pull it as retro suggested and remove the side rail on the right as Kevin mentioned. At that point I take loose only as much as necessary then "roll" the chassis out the right (as viewed from the back) side of the frame/pan. Its been a while so I can not tell you off the top of my head what I leave attached but suffice it to say you don't' have to totally pull it loose. Just work on it sitting off to the side of the rest of the assembly.
 
Sanyo caps

If you get a cap kit from Bob R. Make sure you get the dekuxe kit. There are several things missing in the standard kit.
 
I'm definitely going to remove the chassis and tube from the cabinet and just flop it on my bench and slowly work on it.... it'll just be a lot easier that way and will help keep the stupid-factor at a minimum (I'll likely wind up testing that as it is)...LOL.

I do have the Bob Roberts deluxe kit already - I ordered a few of those in anticipation of this repair.

....and for god's sake.....don't break the neck! :)

Edward

10-4 Ed - I'll watch out for that. Having never worked on one of these before, are they easy to break? I don't intend on mousing around in that area unless necessary...
 
I believe some of the caps are on the neckboard so you'll need to remove the neckboard from the neck. Could be wrong, it's been a while since I did one of these.
 
10-4 Ed - I'll watch out for that. Having never worked on one of these before, are they easy to break? I don't intend on mousing around in that area unless necessary...

The glass at the neck is very thin. It doesn't take much of a bump to cause a hair line crack. The nature of how compact monitors are....you'll be in that area....you have to remove the neckboard to get the chassis out.

Edward
 
The glass at the neck is very thin. It doesn't take much of a bump to cause a hair line crack. The nature of how compact monitors are....you'll be in that area....you have to remove the neckboard to get the chassis out.

Edward

I see what you are saying now that I look at the monitor more closely. Let me ask this then - if I do crack the neck (and I'm going to make sure I'm very cautious not too) did I just "upgrade" my monitor to a very elaborate paperweight? ;)

If that is the case, then is there any repair for the cracked neck other than a tube replacement - or finding a different Sanyo to work on again? ;)

Thanks!
 
I see what you are saying now that I look at the monitor more closely. Let me ask this then - if I do crack the neck (and I'm going to make sure I'm very cautious not too) did I just "upgrade" my monitor to a very elaborate paperweight? ;)

Yes.

If that is the case, then is there any repair for the cracked neck other than a tube replacement - or finding a different Sanyo to work on again? ;)

Thanks!

No.
 
If you break the neck, then the picture tube is trash. You will have to replace it. Best solution - don't break the neck of the tube.

It's not something that's going to happen if you're paying attention. Just pulling the neckboard off and usual working on the monitor won't cause it to break. But it IS the most delicate part of the picture tube, and you need to be mindful of that. Don't leave the tube facing so you can easily bang into it. Normally people break a tube by whacking it against the cabinet or something when removing the monitor, or by hitting it with the back door of the game.

-Ian
 
I believe some of the caps are on the neckboard so you'll need to remove the neckboard from the neck. Could be wrong, it's been a while since I did one of these.

No caps on the neck board. But there are 5 or 6 on the sound board.

Like everyone has said... take your time. These are kind of a pain to take apart, but it's the hardest part of the job. When you take the chassis out you'll need to take the cover off the flyback (4 screws), and there is also 1 screw holding that corner of the board that comes up from the bottom so it's not obvious.
 
They are not that easy to break if you are carefull. If you have an issue. I have a bunch of nice Sanyo tubes FYI.

Good to know - I might pop a couple before I get the hang of this. ;)

Teaganm said:
No caps on the neck board. But there are 5 or 6 on the sound board.

Like everyone has said... take your time. These are kind of a pain to take apart, but it's the hardest part of the job. When you take the chassis out you'll need to take the cover off the flyback (4 screws), and there is also 1 screw holding that corner of the board that comes up from the bottom so it's not obvious.

OK, that's good to know as well. I really appreciate the helpful assistance on this thread - this goes a long way to helping one understand the big "gotchas" on a job like this.

RetroHacker said:
If you break the neck, then the picture tube is trash. You will have to replace it. Best solution - don't break the neck of the tube.

It's not something that's going to happen if you're paying attention. Just pulling the neckboard off and usual working on the monitor won't cause it to break. But it IS the most delicate part of the picture tube, and you need to be mindful of that. Don't leave the tube facing so you can easily bang into it. Normally people break a tube by whacking it against the cabinet or something when removing the monitor, or by hitting it with the back door of the game.

-Ian

I probably wouldn't have given much thought to the delicate nature of this part of the monitor had it not been for this thread... now I will certainly treat this with some kid gloves so that I don't do exactly as you say and pull a "Chevy Chase" while trying to get the monitor out of the cabinet. ;)
 
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