tester007
Well-known member
Had some time to work on this monitor today, but its being a real P.I.T.A. Bought a Midway Kick, and it works now.. (didn't upon purchase, but did when I got it home), but had a loud humm and vertical waves going across the monitor..typical ground or AC. Yanked all the connectors off the large caps, and put back on.. waviness gone, and humm nearly extinct as well. Recapped the power supply, the sound amp board and all seemed well power-wise... so I decided to re-cap the monitor as it needed it fairly badly.
The monitor in this game seems to be held down pretty well, double mirror...etc.. so I decided to work on this by just removing the pcb. Well its probably been in and out of the chassis at least 20 times now.
- I recapped the thing, put it back in and the monitor is now dead. Checked all my work, nothing seemed wrong. I've done 30 or 40 capkits and repairs to all sorts of monitors and am used to them coming back up right away after something as simple as a capkit..never had an issue. But this is only the second Go7 I have worked on as before I used to just take them out, throw them out (most had a lot of burn), and put in a vision pro (wish I knew what was coming down the road for monitor availability and at least saved the chassis)
- After at least 10 of those times being in and out, I downloaded the Go7 flowchart, ordered in some transistors online, and new caps from Digikey. Caps arrived last Friday.
- Today I mucked around it some more and went through the flowchart to the end.. could not get it to come on and still had overvoltage at the resistor.. B+ unresponsive. SO I was at a complete loss..swapped a pile of parts off another chassis.. only thing I didn't swap was the IC, tried some more.. and still dead.
- I had another Go7 chassis that I had scavenged a few parts off of (before, and for this), nothing major, and had all caps off it. So I deicded 'what the heck' and started to re-cap that one. I swapped over the Horizontal width coil from this dead one, and a couple of the larger resistors that I had taken from this chassis before as they were still very tight on spec. I put the voltage reg that I had off the other one from that swap, back on this chassis, and moved over the B+ pot as this one was broken.. Plugged it into the monitor and it fired up right away.. colors were great, picture very crisp... So I figured, whatever it was on the other one, it will be in the trash can soon..
- So I played a game, slid the cab back in place, turned it on again.. still working.. turned it off.. Got another Go7 running and put it in my Spectar cab that has been sitting for a while and slid that cab back.. plugged 3 games in to see what the wall looked like and... wtf? Go7 in the Kick is not coming on..but game is.. I slide out the cab, open the back and go to test the voltage at the resistor.. its like 154v DC like the other pcb had...
Anyone with an idea of what is going on here? Is there something in the yoke or CRT that can cause this issue on the main pcb?? Don't see how I can have the same thing twice with this monitor with 2 different pcb's unless it was caused by that... Would any of the yoke connectors if not making good enough contact cause this? There is nothing outside the monitor other than the AC power, and game input which shouldn't affect the pcb to produce an overvoltage... I'm at a loss.
When I got this game the seller said it didn't work... when I got it home it did so maybe the monitor was dead when he had it, but something loose re-seated itself in transportation, then went out again today... but I cannot figure out what it could be...
The monitor in this game seems to be held down pretty well, double mirror...etc.. so I decided to work on this by just removing the pcb. Well its probably been in and out of the chassis at least 20 times now.
- I recapped the thing, put it back in and the monitor is now dead. Checked all my work, nothing seemed wrong. I've done 30 or 40 capkits and repairs to all sorts of monitors and am used to them coming back up right away after something as simple as a capkit..never had an issue. But this is only the second Go7 I have worked on as before I used to just take them out, throw them out (most had a lot of burn), and put in a vision pro (wish I knew what was coming down the road for monitor availability and at least saved the chassis)
- After at least 10 of those times being in and out, I downloaded the Go7 flowchart, ordered in some transistors online, and new caps from Digikey. Caps arrived last Friday.
- Today I mucked around it some more and went through the flowchart to the end.. could not get it to come on and still had overvoltage at the resistor.. B+ unresponsive. SO I was at a complete loss..swapped a pile of parts off another chassis.. only thing I didn't swap was the IC, tried some more.. and still dead.
- I had another Go7 chassis that I had scavenged a few parts off of (before, and for this), nothing major, and had all caps off it. So I deicded 'what the heck' and started to re-cap that one. I swapped over the Horizontal width coil from this dead one, and a couple of the larger resistors that I had taken from this chassis before as they were still very tight on spec. I put the voltage reg that I had off the other one from that swap, back on this chassis, and moved over the B+ pot as this one was broken.. Plugged it into the monitor and it fired up right away.. colors were great, picture very crisp... So I figured, whatever it was on the other one, it will be in the trash can soon..
- So I played a game, slid the cab back in place, turned it on again.. still working.. turned it off.. Got another Go7 running and put it in my Spectar cab that has been sitting for a while and slid that cab back.. plugged 3 games in to see what the wall looked like and... wtf? Go7 in the Kick is not coming on..but game is.. I slide out the cab, open the back and go to test the voltage at the resistor.. its like 154v DC like the other pcb had...
Anyone with an idea of what is going on here? Is there something in the yoke or CRT that can cause this issue on the main pcb?? Don't see how I can have the same thing twice with this monitor with 2 different pcb's unless it was caused by that... Would any of the yoke connectors if not making good enough contact cause this? There is nothing outside the monitor other than the AC power, and game input which shouldn't affect the pcb to produce an overvoltage... I'm at a loss.
When I got this game the seller said it didn't work... when I got it home it did so maybe the monitor was dead when he had it, but something loose re-seated itself in transportation, then went out again today... but I cannot figure out what it could be...
Last edited:
