Getting ready to attempt my 1st cap kit. Need ID help!

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Getting ready to attempt my 1st cap kit. Need ID help!

Not quite sure what I got here. It kinda looks like the KJ-1915 off of Bob Roberts site. I was thinking it was a Wells Gardner tho. A couple stickers on the chassis have this number:

WG 1449861

Its out of a Cherry Master made in '98.
 

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WG K7300/K7301 - although Tovis made a version used for the Vision Pro....
 
Cool. Thank you very much! In your opinion is this a good one to start out on? Anything in particular I should know about?
 
Also, a little confused by Bobs site. Should I get the K7000 kit or the K7302?

No replacing the flyback? I think it snaps once in a while was hoping to replace that too eventually
 
Thank you again. Can you elaborate on why I'd be screwed if I had a bad flyback? Do they not make replacements for this style of chassis?
 
Cool. Thank you very much! In your opinion is this a good one to start out on? Anything in particular I should know about?

I would recommend NOT using a K7302 as your first monitor to try a cap kit on. There's over 2 dozen caps in that kit. I tried that cap kit as my first, and it took me well over 2 hours to get it done, and I've done a bit of soldering myself.

Unfortunately, mine had to be sent off to Carl Blessing at Allgood repair for further examination. The ferrite on my flyback was cracked, causing more issues. I'm hoping he can get it up and running again.

FYI, if you do decide to get a replacement chassis for it, I can tell you it's a 10 pin tube connector (CR31 I believe?) and the impedance of the yoke on my K7302 tube is 14.4 ohms vertical, and horizontal was 1.4. That means it's a low impedance yoke.
 
I have two of the vision pro versions with bad flybacks and there is no replacement currently. Not sure if the WG version is available or not...
 
I would recommend NOT using a K7302 as your first monitor to try a cap kit on. There's over 2 dozen caps in that kit. I tried that cap kit as my first, and it took me well over 2 hours to get it done, and I've done a bit of soldering myself.

Unfortunately, mine had to be sent off to Carl Blessing at Allgood repair for further examination. The ferrite on my flyback was cracked, causing more issues. I'm hoping he can get it up and running again.

FYI, if you do decide to get a replacement chassis for it, I can tell you it's a 10 pin tube connector (CR31 I believe?) and the impedance of the yoke on my K7302 tube is 14.4 ohms vertical, and horizontal was 1.4. That means it's a low impedance yoke.

Well... I'm not sure what to do. There is only this one and a much older one that I have to work on at the moment. I have a feeling that the older one is not repairable. I"ll post pics of it shortly. I'm basically in the same boat as you. I can solder a little and I do have alot of time to work on it. I'll have to think about it.

Hey, I just realized you were the same guy who's "OMG" post I'm following over on BYOAC. Great stuff!
 
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I never understand how anyone who knows how to solder and unsolder can take more than one minute to replace one cap. Desoldering two legs can be done in under 10 seconds iwth a decent soldering iron and a decent soldapult. Pulling it out and putting the new one in takes 30 seconds at most. Then solder the two legs and clip. One minute. 15 caps - 15 minutes. 30 caps - 30 minutes. Even if you take the time to check each one off on the sheet, two minutes tops per cap should be enough.

I capped a monitor with 94 caps once, and that took about 90 minutes, but that's about it.

I understand I do this a lot more than most people, put basic soldering skills should be enough to not take forever.

The K7302 is fairly wide open for replacing caps, and isn't much harder than most other "easy" chassis. And if the recap doesn't fix the issue, then it's just as hard to fix a dead rebuilt G07 as it is to fix a dead rebuilt K7300...
 
I never understand how anyone who knows how to solder and unsolder can take more than one minute to replace one cap.

* STG stands at his soldering bench.

* "Crap, where's my solder?"

(spend 4 minutes digging through junk, finally find the solder tube under the chassis. swear.)

* Realize iron is cold. Turn on soldering iron. (DOH!)

* Wait 3 minutes for iron to warm up. Swear more.

* 3 year old needs to be wiped. Wipe her. Wash hands. Start new movie, get more snacks, drinks, and read a story. (total time = 20 minutes)

* Back to bench. Open baggie of caps, drop 6 on the floor. Swear again. Move mountains to find them. (10 more minutes)

* Unsolder a cap. Replace it. Realize you grabbed a 10uf 50volt instead of a 1uf 50volt. Swear again. Pull errant cap, replace with correct one. (5 minutes)

......about an hour later......

* Clip legs off final cap. Realize it's too quiet in the family room. Go inspect children, fix whatever mess they've created. (15 minutes)

* put chassis back on tube. Install and power up.

That, my friends is why it takes me so effin' long to do a cap kit.
 
Well... I'm not sure what to do. There is only this one and a much older one that I have to work on at the moment. I have a feeling that the older one is not repairable. I"ll post pics of it shortly. I'm basically in the same boat as you. I can solder a little and I do have alot of time to work on it. I'll have to think about it.

Hey, I just realized you were the same guy who's "OMG" post I'm following over on BYOAC. Great stuff!

You should dive in. It's a good learning experience. Just take your time, double/triple check every cap both against the cap list and the one you pulled from the chassis, and work clean with your solder. There are videos on youtube that show you how to do it as well, I watched a bunch of those before diving into my first one.
 
Well. I did it. My 1st cap kit!! Smalltownguy2 was right this sucker had a TON of caps. 35 in all! I plugged it back in and it actually worked! Well, sorta. I am still having an issue although I don't think it's "cap" related. I've attached a link to the video I shot of it. What do you guys think?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TXFxXVMC0aY
 
Try pushing the white button on the chassis...

Are you talking about that horiz osc pot that I point to at the end of the video? It is very touchy and I believe I will have to replace it. I did reflow the solder pins for it and it may have helped a little. I found a likely candidate. Would it be a 2kb pot?



That looks to me like a sync issue. Are you sure you have the correct sync connections set up? (positive or negative, horizontal or vertical, compostite, etc)

Pretty sure. I took plenty of pictures before pulling the chassis out. I think I put it all back like it was.
 
Try pushing the white button on the chassis...

Are you talking about that horiz osc pot that I point to at the end of the video? It is very touchy and I believe I will have to replace it. I did reflow the solder pins for it and it may have helped a little. I found a likely candidate. Would it be a 2kb pot?


Nope. It is circled in the pic below. it is a sync selector switch and if it accidentally got pushed during your rebuild, it could cause this issue...


left.jpg
 
Check the solder on the sync pins. Make sure there's no cold joints or cracks. Reflow the whole header of pins while you're at it. Sometimes just plugging and unplugging the video and sync cables is all it takes to break them loose.

I really looks like your picture is there, you are just missing sync.

Of course there could be any number of other components in the sync circuit that are not working either. If that's the case, then you're outta my league :)

One thing you could do to check for cracked solder joints would be to flex the pcb while it's powered up. get a plastic long tool and press on the middle of the board a bit and see if you get any noticeable changes in the picture.
 
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