Getting Busy Cpo Overlays?

Thomas

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I have been working on this since yesterday.

http://mrcade.com/cpo/

I am rounding third and headed for home...

I just wanted to check in and make sure I lay down the cpo's the right way.

Should I use some sort of alcohol to clean these panels first? I have also heard of people using 3m spray adhesive to seal the panel first.

What would you do?

Here is the major question... How in the hell do you get those cpo's to go on straight?

This is the biggest concern I have...
 
I didn't look at your pics, but if the CPO doesn't cover the entire panel (like on Pac-Man) then you should paint it first. otherwise, if you're not using the joystick dust cover on top, paint the area around that hole black before you but the paint on. That'll keep the edges of the hole from being noticeable.

I don't use spray adhesive or alcohol before applying. I just make sure it's smooth and clean first.

If you have a die cut CPO that already has the holes cut out, then it's easy to align. just line up the holes so they look perfect, attach it right there, then smooth it out going away from the holes.

otherwise, you can guestimate where the holes are supposed to be, pop a small hole there, then try to line that up with the center of the hole before smoothing. Then you can cut out the hole once it's smoothed out.

If your new CPO is an exact size for the CP, then you just have to align either the top or bottom edge and smooth it out. Pay attention, as some CPO's have a small amount that folds over the top and bottom edges. It's best to try wrapping it around the CP with the backing still on first, so you can get an idea of alignment and placement before you start...
 
Thanks for that post mod...

I have another question about drilling the cp out. These are williams style wood control panels.

What would be best to use to drill out all the holes for a multiWilliams?

What are the correct sizes?
 
Here are a few snaps... Riptor hooked me up with this hole saw set. Would this work and not mess up my bondo? What size do you use?
 

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I do have a can of Duro Spray Adhesive that my girl bought. So I am still on the fence about using this to apply the cpo.

There was also some kinda of molding stapled to the control panels. Where can I find that stuff at?

So will a hole saw work or would some sort of step bit be better.

If I use the 1 1/8 hole saw how clean would this turn out?
 
I used a 1-1/8" hole saw on my drill and had pretty nice holes. The thing to remember is that, even if the very edges of the holes get a little chipped where the bondo is, it won't matter because the button flanges will cover it up. Also, if you put the dust discs on top of the CPO around the joys, it won't matter how crisp it is there either, because you won't see it. As long as you let the bondo dry for a good time, you won't have any problems, although I wouldn't press down hard anytime your drilling even partially through bondo. Just let the saw go through normally.

Also, I never used spray adhesive on the Stargate CP that I modified after bondo-ing just like you did there. The CPO stuck on just fine. The buttons hold it down on top, the hinge holds the edge tight on the bottom, and the plastic molding on top does as well. The CP looked great when I was done...

You can buy the plastic Williams CP molding from Arcadeshop....
 
I would not use the adhesive. It may react badly over time with the adhesive on the back of the CPO.

Normally I drill the holes first before I put the CPO on. I then take the CPO and mount it with the backing paper still on and then put a couple of the switches in. I use the switches to anchor the CPO. Next i gently lift the top edge of the CPO, just enough to tear about a 1" strip all the way across the top. I then use that strip to anchor the CPO down by pressing the adhesive onto the top of the control panel. I remove the switches and peel the backing paper offslowly achoring between pulls. As I go past the switch holes, I mount the switches to continue to anchor the CPO in the correct location.

It is all about doing it in small steps so you don't glue it down in the wrong spots. That adhesive is very tough. It will stick very hard and it will be almost impossible to move the CPO if you put it sown in the wrong spot, so only peel off enough for what you are working on at a time.

The hole saws will work, but you will need to use a chisel to clean the countersink hole.

ken
 
DO NOT use spray adhesive on the CPO. If its prepped right, that 3M adhesive is tough as nails. I would paint or prime the cp first and then hit it with some sandpaper to make sure its smooth.
You should have asked me how to align that CP today, I could have shown you a simple way of doing it.
 
Thanks for those post. I am almost crystal .

Whats the best way to get perfect center for drilling the buttons.?

I know I need to trace the holes from the cpo onto the cp. Whats the best to use to hold the cpo in place?

Also Ken has suggested a sharp 1 1/8 paddle bit for the button holes but I could get by with the hole saw and chisel.
 
I usually use a ruler and level to line up exactly where I want the holes, make sure they are all even, and they are spaced enough (but not too much). I then mark each spot with a sharpie or pencil. Then I take a 1/8" drill bit and make a pilot hole right there. That's the center of the hole. Then my hole saw goes right where my pilot holes are....
 
I am glad you mention the sandpaper Riptor. I almost forgot that I have them sanded nice and smooth with 80 grit. So before I apply the cpo's what should the finial sanding grit be? Is 80 to rough?

You still should chime in on your way. It makes for a very well informed thread man. Which thanks to Mod, Ken and you I think these cp's are really going to turn out nice.



DO NOT use spray adhesive on the CPO. If its prepped right, that 3M adhesive is tough as nails. I would paint or prime the cp first and then hit it with some sandpaper to make sure its smooth.
You should have asked me how to align that CP today, I could have shown you a simple way of doing it.
 
Mod thanks for that post. I have the die cut CPO's So all I need to do is pop them out and trace the button holes on the multiwilliams cp.

So I will have the circles traced on the cp. What the best way to make sure I am dead center.

Would a ruler do it by measuring top to bottom then side to side? Or could that throw them off a little off center?

I usually use a ruler and level to line up exactly where I want the holes, make sure they are all even, and they are spaced enough (but not too much). I then mark each spot with a sharpie or pencil. Then I take a 1/8" drill bit and make a pilot hole right there. That's the center of the hole. Then my hole saw goes right where my pilot holes are....
 
There will be a little fudging on the edges of the holes no matter what you do. Remember the CPO will be just a smidge thinner without the backing paper. On flat surfaces, that is usually not an issue, but the Williams CPs are curved. That's why I start on the top surface first.

I do what Mod does and drill pilot holes. Also if you are using the hole saw, all of the blades will use the same mandril and so the bit will automatically space the blades correctly. Just remember to drill the large countersink hole first.

I always spray the CP with a good grade of spray poly urathane to seal it and to give the adhesive a solid surface to bond to. I try to let it dry for 2 days to make sure it is fully cured (but sometimes I can't wait :)).

ken
 
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Last post Ken I swear! What grit is your finial sanding?
 
I personaly wouldn't go any less then 150 on final sanding, preferably 220, for wood. Even higher if the wood was going to be bare. But 150 would be pretty good for this.
 
I would have to write three pages to explain what I could have shown you in a few minutes. If you want to give me a call I can explain it to you.
 
I will in a few... Soon as she gets off the damn phone!
 
Last post Ken I swear! What grit is your finial sanding?

150 or 220. It doesn't need to be furniture finish smooth. Just decent. The urathane will fill in a lot of the scratches. I usually do 2 coats of urathane with 6 - 12 hours curing in between. Less if it's summer. Like now, it is baked dry in my garage in 30 minutes, but then so am I :D

ken
 
I don't know if you will be able to see this good enough but I did a real nice hatchet job on my cp.
 

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Well i am under the opinion that a hole saw is not the right way to go about this. My gawd i spent a lot of time on that cp just to hose it. err...

At this point I am not sure if I should fill the darn thing in again with bondo or just grab another panel and just trash this one.

Why oh why can't I buy a darn new multi... This is too much like work!
 
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