General monitor question

[mecha]

if you're asking this question you're not ready to do tube swaps. most novice collectors blow the screen burn issue out of proportion. like people are going to think you're a degenerate because there's some game over or maze burn. just play your games.

 

[TheYeti]

If your visitors bring up those flaws, tell them to fuck off.

 

[tstone]

As you can see from some of the responses, it's a sensitive question to some people. When you touch people in sensitive places, you can get some odd reactions. Just ignore them.

If you want to get rid of screen burn, you need a new screen. It isn't fixable.

Swapping the screen is possible to do this, but it is difficult even for experienced people. You will probably not succeed. You are better off buying a complete monitor with no burn and selling your existing one if this is a problem for you.

Personally, I hate screen burn. It is permanent damage to a very important, visible, functional part of the game. Perhaps the most important part of the game.

I replace screens that have burn, and I keep a supply of working burn free monitors in a closet for when I get a new game that has burn.

That's my person collecting preference, and it's different than that of other people. That's fine. You do you.

I think it's ridiculous that people go to great lengths to make their monitors look marginally better by "capping" them, but do nothing about the much more noticeable screen burn...if you're familiar with the phrase "polishing a turd", that applies here...but again, different strokes for different folks.

 

[KazooBR]

Sometimes the burn is too much to be ignored! But I'm in agreement that you should ignore minor burn. The hassle and potential issues with a tube swap are real.

 

[ArcadeTechGW]

Short of a tube swap with a non-arcade tube, no.

Someone once opined that if you did a negative image to the regular burn, you'd turn it into an even tan so to speak, but to do that would take impossible precision.

 

[rod90]

My Popeye has Mario Bros burn. And it is dim. I turned it into a Special Forces which does not have a tinted bezel. This situation fits my willingness to not replace the Sanyo.

 

[summersquall22]

glad to get into this conversation. i want to start with recapping and making chassis nice again. i can pick some up off Facebook marketplace for nothing. i know just coming here and searching that i can take it step by step. the only issue is i dont have a workstation like ya all. i have a woking game i can always test them on i figure. but i wish i had the setup to do it. my older retired froend fixed up lionel trains. a weathy man he spent so far about 300k on trains. his whole spare roon is a worksttion. he does not turn around and sell them at shows. he has trains worth 10k. thats what i want in chassis although i dont expect to make money off of them unless i do them right and test them. i cannot find that bob robets scematic anymore . that would be helpful. does anyone know the range of price it would be to just make a simple worksation to test chassis. thank you kindly men and woman

 

[rod90]

I would advise against that endeavor. There are many people that are already doing this that have a reputation built up. Then there are those that fix their own stuff. Who is your target market? It is not KLOV!

 

[summersquall22]

I would advise against that endeavor. There are many people that are already doing this that have a reputation built up. Then there are those that fix their own stuff. Who is your target market? It is not KLOV!

No it's for pure enjoyment and a feeling of accomplishment for me. If I sell any on Facebook marketplace hey then some sell. I have no complaints building up a barrage of chassis. I would like to get the worst ones. It's just for accomplishment.

 

[KazooBR]

Short of a tube swap with a non-arcade tube, no.

Someone once opined that if you did a negative image to the regular burn, you'd turn it into an even tan so to speak, but to do that would take impossible precision.

I feel like I read about an attempt to actually do that. They couldn't get a pixel-perfect reverse image and abandoned the idea. Without perfection, they decided they would end up with burned "rings" all over the tube.

 

[cwilkson]

It can be done. But it's *HARD* to ge the inverse image perfect. Voltage, time of year, location on the earths surface, temperature, humidity.....these all will play a part. And it will take a *VERY VERY LONG TIME* to do it right. And still.....It will look like ass when you're done. And most importantly, the onlly way to do it is to run the electron guns, thus wearing them out. Once they're done, your CRT will never work again. It would have to be rebuilt with new guns and nobody is doing that anymore.

 

[summersquall22]

Serious question. How do I find what chassis is compatible with a monitor tube and such. I want to buy my first chassis but before I need my fellas to help me

 

[greedycrisp]

I haven't seen a complete, definitive reference since there are multiple CRTs that fit each chassis. Does anyone know of a static list posted anywhere?

If you have a tube you want to find a chassis for, start at http://tubular.atomized.org/ Enter the tube, look at the 'used in' section.

If you have a Chassis and want to find a tube, start with looking at threads around here. For instance
https://forums.arcade-museum.com/th...is-for-samsung-a48krd89x.535953/#post-4809179
lists compatible yoke and Ohm readings for various chassis.

If you want to salvage old TV tubes and put them in arcade monitors I suggest you start by reading https://www.streetdirectory.com/tra...nology/how_to_read_crt_tube_part_numbers.html (and maybe https://www.repairfaq.org/sam/crtfaq.htm if you want to become a master ).

Then go to https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1uI8qD_1waAlgb6fghcIDqJabmRegSQ_h2-N05UHEm-o/edit?gid=0#gid=0 for a good start.

Salvaging old TV tubes is the way to go if you want burn-free monitors

 

[Texas_Funnyhair]

Serious question. How do I find what chassis is compatible with a monitor tube and such. I want to buy my first chassis but before I need my fellas to help me

Ok, I'm gonna say I don't think you should be messing with CRT's and monitors in general if you don't understand the basics of how electronics work first. Which you've demonstrated multiple times in your threads and questions.

If you did want to go ahead with it though, then it really depends on how "drop-in" of a replacement you want. @greedycrisp posted the spreadsheet of consumer TV's that have been measured but basically if you want to mate a CRT to a chassis with as little fuss as possible then you need a tube that has the same connector as the chassis' neck board, or connector if it doesn't use a neck board, and ideally the tube should have a yoke installed with compatible ohm/inductance readings. Finding a tube with a compatible yoke on them is difficult for some chassis, like the G07 where the vertical coil measures about 50ohms, but a tube with a compatible connector could still be used if you were to swap in a compatible yoke. Installing a yoke would require you to converge the monitor which isn't exactly an easy process.

 

[ccie38296]

I haven't seen a complete, definitive reference since there are multiple CRTs that fit each chassis. Does anyone know of a static list posted anywhere?

If you have a tube you want to find a chassis for, start at http://tubular.atomized.org/ Enter the tube, look at the 'used in' section.

If you have a Chassis and want to find a tube, start with looking at threads around here. For instance
https://forums.arcade-museum.com/th...is-for-samsung-a48krd89x.535953/#post-4809179
lists compatible yoke and Ohm readings for various chassis.

If you want to salvage old TV tubes and put them in arcade monitors I suggest you start by reading https://www.streetdirectory.com/tra...nology/how_to_read_crt_tube_part_numbers.html (and maybe https://www.repairfaq.org/sam/crtfaq.htm if you want to become a master ).

Then go to https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1uI8qD_1waAlgb6fghcIDqJabmRegSQ_h2-N05UHEm-o/edit?gid=0#gid=0 for a good start.

Salvaging old TV tubes is the way to go if you want burn-free monitors

Does anyone know how to contribute to that Google Spreadsheet? I used that for some reference previously, and just went through a batch of testing 3 19" tubes that I had scavenged and have resistance and inductance readings from 3 consumer TV models with their associated tube models, all of which I tried with a K7000 chassis with success. I'd love to contribute the data.

 

[Texas_Funnyhair]

Does anyone know how to contribute to that Google Spreadsheet? I used that for some reference previously, and just went through a batch of testing 3 19" tubes that I had scavenged and have resistance and inductance readings from 3 consumer TV models with their associated tube models, all of which I tried with a K7000 chassis with success. I'd love to contribute the data.

I think you can leave a comment and the spreadsheet owner will update it.

 

[Erock75]

Some info on CRT's, I thought really interesting. See about 8:20 in video.

 

[Patrick Verner]

Screwing around with monitors when you don't know what you are doing is a good way to die.

 

[LeeWoo]

Some info on CRT's, I thought really interesting. See about 8:20 in video.

Man, that video was great! Thank you!

I will preface this post with it's probably gonna come off as just a dumb idea, but just seeing what the complications or near impossibilities of it are.

I know that the tube is in vacuum, and that the glass is sprayed with phosphorus in different ways. As I understand it from all the great analogies here, the phosphorus that's sprayed on is getting worn out in those spots, causing the burn in.

So having said that, is there a way (I'm thinking like how a surgeon does microscopic heart surgery, etc.) to puncture the glass from the neck side, respray the tube, then redo the vacuum?

Again, there's probably some there's no way to 'xyz' but I wanted to understand why that is.

 

[summersquall22]

Ok, I'm gonna say I don't think you should be messing with CRT's and monitors in general if you don't understand the basics of how electronics work first. Which you've demonstrated multiple times in your threads and questions.

If you did want to go ahead with it though, then it really depends on how "drop-in" of a replacement you want. @greedycrisp posted the spreadsheet of consumer TV's that have been measured but basically if you want to mate a CRT to a chassis with as little fuss as possible then you need a tube that has the same connector as the chassis' neck board, or connector if it doesn't use a neck board, and ideally the tube should have a yoke installed with compatible ohm/inductance readings. Finding a tube with a compatible yoke on them is difficult for some chassis, like the G07 where the vertical coil measures about 50ohms, but a tube with a compatible connector could still be used if you were to swap in a compatible yoke. Installing a yoke would require you to converge the monitor which isn't exactly an easy process.

No. I just want to learn how to do a cap job on a chassis . Nothing crazy. That's all and I know it takes a lot of intelligence but I think I can learn. I'm just putting bob Roberts box together so I could test a chassis if I am successful in rebuilding it