Gauntlet Legends Glitchy Screen Major Issue. Never seen Issue Reported so far.

I was also reading the manuals for both Gauntlet legends since that's what this cab originally was, and a Gauntlet dark legacy manual and checked all the led indicators codes with them. According to both of these, the LEDs are giving all normal codes EXCEPT if this sound board was changed out, then led 1 flashing indicates a power fault in the Dark Legacy manual. I don't think it is the newer board though considering it had the Rev 1 chip in it. Manuals are also both seriously wrong on all the dipswitches, at first I thought maybe this was set to standard instead of med res, found the respective switch which was u12 switch 2, and that caused this mess lol. Flipped it back and power cycled and it's back to "normal". But still I feel like one of these dips has to be incorrect or something with the jamma is off.
The manuals are seriously wrong with the dip switches, and if you review them carefully, you will find some sections are correct and some are incorrect. You really want to know what's what, flip a dip switch and look at that screen in setup and it will tell you how the game is interpreting it.

In any case, this is not a dip switch issue. At this point I would rule out voltages by waiting for it to screw up and checking them, and then I would suspect the video card if everything plays perfectly but the graphics are screwing up.
 
Oh, one other thing. Take the jamma harness off the board and take a picture of the fingers where the jamma cable slides on. I'd like to see how healthy that connector is.

These games are famous for damaging that connector because too much current is flowing through it. It's interesting to see what the voltage is on the cable like you measured it, but it's much more useful to see what's actually making it through to the boards.

My cabinet was completely haunted and had power issues that took a while to hunt down. Now I continuously monitor the power with it by using a small voltage display panel that's visible when I pop the control panel up. I've not had any problems for years thankfully.
separate issue is the boards are apparently too thin also.

also, 4.95V is perfectly fine. it's not going to be a voltage thing.
 
The manuals are seriously wrong with the dip switches, and if you review them carefully, you will find some sections are correct and some are incorrect. You really want to know what's what, flip a dip switch and look at that screen in setup and it will tell you how the game is interpreting it.

In any case, this is not a dip switch issue. At this point I would rule out voltages by waiting for it to screw up and checking them, and then I would suspect the video card if everything plays perfectly but the graphics are screwing up.
Yeah I loaded in some credits and let my kid play while I was behind the machine, nothing crazy happened, pretty stable readings all around. I think you are probably right and its a video card issue. Gonna have to just take the L and buy an Obsidian2 card lol.
 
Yeah I loaded in some credits and let my kid play while I was behind the machine, nothing crazy happened, pretty stable readings all around. I think you are probably right and its a video card issue. Gonna have to just take the L and buy an Obsidian2 card lol.
You need to wait until it screws up and make sure the game is continuing to play okay before you make that jump, unless you just want to throw money at the problem. By the way, those video cards are difficult to acquire. You don't just go buy one from arcadeshop.
 
You need to wait until it screws up and make sure the game is continuing to play okay before you make that jump, unless you just want to throw money at the problem. By the way, those video cards are difficult to acquire. You don't just go buy one from arcadeshop.
Yeah Its been played at least 10+ hours now since ive gotten it last month. Played a 2 hour session myself last week (Probably not the best idea in hindsight) , and just started testing everything this week when I got that new psu.
The game functions 100% expect for these weird glitches. You can save and load your character every time, you can make it through levels, pretty much everything if you're willing to just see past the glitches. I found a couple of the cards online but yeah thats about 1/3rd of what I paid for the whole thing lol. If it'll fix it though it'll be worth it. It makes sense, it was the only thing that wasn't replaced or looked at by the original owners other than the whole PCB.
 
did you try removing the video card and reinserting it? and as demogo mentioned, the cooling fan on it works?
 
That looks like a failing Video card issue. Whether it be bad ram or loose connections.
I'm hoping it just needs a reseat.

the pencil eraser thing will work there too. the video card fan on my Sportstation crapped out one night and it presented some horrifying graphic glitches. and my 777 board was scorched on JAMMA edge too. part of the impetus behind why I relented and sold it here, I don't want to deal with those problems later and have the game be a paperweight.
 
I'm hoping it just needs a reseat.

the pencil eraser thing will work there too. the video card fan on my Sportstation crapped out one night and it presented some horrifying graphic glitches. and my 777 board was scorched on JAMMA edge too. part of the impetus behind why I relented and sold it here, I don't want to deal with those problems later and have the game be a paperweight.

Yeah but these are older cards, they've been turned off and on many times, heating up, cooling down, etc. So the solder will come loose eventually. Also a side note. I've never really been a fan of how Midway/Atari cooled the hot chips. Normally you would want to blow the hot air away from the chip, not have a fan blow air onto the chip. This causes a huge amount of corrosion on the chips.
 
Yeah but these are older cards, they've been turned off and on many times, heating up, cooling down, etc. So the solder will come loose eventually. Also a side note. I've never really been a fan of how Midway/Atari cooled the hot chips. Normally you would want to blow the hot air away from the chip, not have a fan blow air onto the chip. This causes a huge amount of corrosion on the chips.
yeah, and those metal death traps they used for Rush 2049 -_-
 
Okay so I had to order a screw extraction bit because someone mounted the GPU like it was their last goal in life. Card was god awfully dirty, I don't think it's been taken out or cleaned once in its life. So took it out finally, got to cleaning and popped it back in hoping for the best annndd....

It is now worse than ever lol. Game won't even boot now, and I'm getting an error code on the board that cycles 1-8 then hangs on 8 and flashes "u-E-u-E". I don't understand how cleaning the card made it worse, but is it a safe bet to say this card is cooked? I'm really hoping it's not the monitor or anything else at this point, if I can just get a new card and pop it in and it works id be happy.
 

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This was how awful the state of the card was before and after. That screw was stripped to a crater lol. I noticed there was some corrosion or flaking on the fingers as seen in the photos that I just couldn't get off even following mecha's awesome guide. Thinking that might be the main issue.
 

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8 and ue are error codes for a bad graphics card.

Your card was probably marginal and you taking it out and cleaning it up may have pushed it over the edge. Not sure why it would be corroded like that; mine doesn't look anything like that.

I'm guessing that was a thick layer of dust on the graphics card? That's a good insulator as well and it'll cause the card to burn up even if there are fans running on it.

I'm thinking a new graphics card will likely fix you up.
 
Found a post here referring to their problems and the DL manual, Eu Definately means "Bad Video Card". Really weird considering it "worked" before cleaning, but none the less looks like I have to replace the card.
 
If I were you, I'd take some compressed air and blow the crap off of the other boards; that thick layer of dust is your enemy!
 
100% thank you all for the narrowing down, here's hoping in a few weeks I can come back with a new card and a good news update 🤞
 
before anyone says anything, deoxit isn't going to get that off. if you have super fine sandpaper you can work that brown gunk off the video card edge. you'll definitely want contact cleaner of some kind for the video card slot, which will help.
 
While I'm waiting on getting a new card, I do have one other issue I would like to fix with this game. The blue joystick is "crunchy". Moving up and down is fine, but any left to right movement cause the joystick to grind and cause the lower brackets in the pictures to grind like gears. I'm assuming because of this stain I see in the bottom of the control panel, that someone once upon a time spilled something in this port. The joystick works 100% as long as you're willing to deal with the grinding, but I would like to solve it if possible without just ordering a new one. Is there a simple way to take this apart and clean it up? These black ring lines along the shaft convince me that it has to be some abrasion happening somewhere.
 

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If you're going to go spend stupid money on a new nearly unobtanium graphics card, I do have a spare, never used, NOS (new original stock) graphics card for this game that I'd rather not sell. But if the money is stupid high enough, let me know and I'll consider it. :)

Part of the issue is that I won't sell it without re-testing it and burning it in for a day, and that's a lot of work that I really, really don't want to do.
 
You can get those joysticks for ballpark $30-$40. If you have to replace it, it won't be a big deal.
 
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