Gatordads Defender to multiwilliams build/restore

[gatordad]

Getting back into form on Robotron
840,xxx is my highscore so far
I used to be able to break 1mil on a regular basis, getting closer!

The K7xxx monitor I had installed in this guy has developed a small image curl, not noticeable on any other game except Sinistar, I can tweak the Hor hold to eliminate it but it always comes back, maybe a bad pot? Not really sure whats up with that.

In the short term, I will replace it with one of the NOS WG7203's that was the spoils of a recent small bulk buy, and cap and put new pots on the K7xxx as time permits.

I have to post pic's of the cp installed and the coin door lit.
I used led's behind the inserts so I should never have to change them out.

 

[damadczar]

So I'm embarking on this same quest, the MW in a defender. I've got the same CPO from TOG.
Did you just apply the overlay straight onto the wood?
And the plexiglass, is that just held on by the buttons? No sticky glue or anything?

I've been wrestling with the Plexi or not-to-Plexi. I've got the wood cut for the CP, and the holes drilled out, then just stopped. Was trying to figure out if I wanted to attach the CPO to plexi, and then glue the plexi to the wood, or go plexi on top.

Yours looks great. I've also got older 8-way red ball top leaf's to put in there!!!

Hmmm....

Covered in plexiglass too!

Joysticks are mounted without any routing work done under the cp
I used 2 of the 4inch repro's for sticks and the height is perfect for both Robotron and Defender and Stargate

 

[gatordad]

So I'm embarking on this same quest, the MW in a defender. I've got the same CPO from TOG.
Did you just apply the overlay straight onto the wood?
And the plexiglass, is that just held on by the buttons? No sticky glue or anything?

To answer your questions

Yes the CPO is applied directly to the wooden control panel after it was prepped sanded and painted.

The cpo required a little bit of trimming (it comes slightly oversized from Rich) so be careful that it is centered left and right and up and down where you want it.

If you look at the way I did it, I made sure that the white verticle lines of the art were 1/8 of an inch in from the edge of the wood, then I centered it up and down on the CP and locked it down with clamps so it wouldn't move, I then took a punch and marked my centers of my button and joystick holes in the wood and trimmed any excess cpo material that was overhanging the cp with an exacto knife.

When I used the drillpress, I sandwiched the plexi underneath the CP but between another piece of scrap wood, I made sure that it was clamped tight and could not move. I did have to reposition my clamps a few times to allow clearance of the drill press.I cut them at the same time to assure a proper alignment.

As I mentioned Rich's CPO is slightly oversized for a Defender control panel. So just peal and stick won't work.

If you already cut your holes they may not line up under the art unless you take precautions or measurements before hand, be careful or you may end up buying another cpo from Rich .

The top plexi protector is held on by the buttons only and there is no movement whatsoever It holds just fine, no glue required.

I did have to bevel the front edge of the plexi with varying grits of sand paper so there would not be a sharp edge on the front edge.

 

[damadczar]

Very nice. Yeah, I've got several pieces of scrap wood to use, so I don't mind re-drilling the holes.

So you drilled everything all at once, including the CPO? Makes sense to do it like that so everything lines up.

I'm thinking about doing this over the weekend. Assuming I get that going, maybe I'll start a restoration thread that'll take me like 8 months to finish. Yeah... that sounds good.

 

[gatordad]

Plexi and Control Panel was drilled at the same time

Cpo was applied after cutting was finished, then I resanded the control panel so it was smooth and ready, the button holes and joystick holes were cut out with exacto knife after it was installed

The exacto cuts for the holes do not have to be perfect except maybe the joystick holes if you put the dust washer under the cp, but I put mine on top so those cover any small imperfections of my cuts.

The lips of the buttons will hide any imperfection on the button hole cuts.

 

[gatordad]

Here is a shot of the multi panel installed on the game

And another

New Monitor that will be installed shortly

 

[gatordad]

Nothing like a new monitor!
I wish they still made them.

 

[ddonaldson]

A thing of beauty is a joy forever. Nice job man!

 

[1500points]

Decided to make a CP like yours. I've had a set of wico opticals sitting around which would be well suited.

Ordered a CPO from This Old Game.

Can you tell me where you got the translucent buttons? (if it's in the past pages, I missed it. thank you)
UPDATE- found some at paradise arcade. they only had 1 red in stock, though.

 

[gatordad]

Decided to make a CP like yours. I've had a set of wico opticals sitting around which would be well suited.

Ordered a CPO from This Old Game.

Can you tell me where you got the translucent buttons?

You are correct
Paradise is where I found mine as well
I am sure a few other places have them too.

 

[1500points]

well if being copied is the highest form of flattery, consider yourself complimented.

Just got the plexi cut today and did a test fit. the plexi was really a smart mod, since it allows the dustwasher to be routed into the board below.

I'm using wico 360/opticals with the 3.5inch shaft. the shaft sticks up 5/8inch and to the top of the ball is 2 inches. it "feels" like it'll be ok for hitting the reverse button and playing robotron. what dimensions did you guys use for the joystick height?

I personally don't mind a shorter throw when playing robotron so I'm not into the tall 4 inch sticks anyway.

 

[gatordad]

I used 4 inch sticks from Wolfeel's repro run.
I did not route out any of the bottom of the wood on the cp
They are a just right kind of height compromise.

Nice panel!

I did not think about routing away a recess to conceal the dust washers when I did mine. Looks really nice that way!
Did you put anything on the adhesive under the cpo to stop the dust washer from sticking to it?

 

[1500points]

Thanks. i didn't even take the adhesive off. it sits well under the plexi.

notice the alignment of my buttons is a bit different than yours.
i wanted the fire/thrust on the same plane as the joysticks which seemed to mean they could only go in that position and still avoid the edge of the joystick.

The 1 1/8 hole saw sure wasn't cheap! but it worked nicely to melt the holes.

 

[gatordad]

Thanks. i didn't even take the adhesive off. it sits well under the plexi.

notice the alignment of my buttons is a bit different than yours.
i wanted the fire/thrust on the same plane as the joysticks which seemed to mean they could only go in that position and still avoid the edge of the joystick.

The 1 1/8 hole saw sure wasn't cheap! but it worked nicely to melt the holes.

Looks good to me!

 

[gatordad]

I am going to light the buttons with the pele rings from Paradise arcade.
Stay tuned!!!!!

 

[geech]

Necro bump!

I know it's years old but I've got to give a shout out to gatordad for this thread. This is perfect for what I'm in the midst of now! I'm not sanding off my original art though, going with the "survivor" look. Super helpful man, thank you!!

As it was when I got it.

After a couple of days and a few magic erasers & isopropyl.

 

[rod90]

Nice elbow work, that looks great.

 

[LovelyCoCoNuts]

Soo cool congrats on saving that great factory art

Mad props!!

 

[J67AB]

+1 on saving the art! Good job!!