Gamebox 450 help please

jcalder8

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Gamebox 450 No picture help please

Sorry for my newbieishness. I have tried to include anything that I thought would help but I can provide any additional info that is needed.

I just got my Gamebox today that I bought from a forum member who was selling it new in box. Unfortunately, when I hook it up I don't get a real picture. All that I get is a couple of wide white lines across the bottom half of my screen. I have tried adjusting the horizontal and vertical holds but that hasn't helped any. The monitor is a Wells-Gardner K7000, if that makes any difference. I have left it on for about 5 minutes and it doesn't change what is being shown on the monitor, at least not as far as I can tell.

I'm using a jamma hookup from street fighter 2 CE. I haven't hooked up the 4, 5 or 6 buttons yet but I can't imagine that would do it. There are ground wires that lead out from a button 4 and 5 but I'm not sure if that would affect anything. The only other thing is that at the top of the jamma connector there are 2 wires that are labeled -5 right below the ones that are labeled +5. I have tried disconnecting those but when I do that the monitor doesn't power on.

Another thing is that the coin door no longer lights up when connected to the Gamebox.

I'm hoping someone here can give me a hand with this since I'm pretty lost.

Thanks for any tips you can give
 
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The 450-in-1 has it's own power supply. You shouldn't need any connection to a power supply in order for it to work. The grounds for the switches must be connected to it though. It is sort of different in that I believe the voltages supplied by it are isolated. Meaning, you can not pull say 12V for the coin door lights from the edge connector of the box.

I hope that makes sense, I've been taking cold medicine for the last four days and tend not to make sense at times lately.
 
The 450-in-1 has it's own power supply. You shouldn't need any connection to a power supply in order for it to work. The grounds for the switches must be connected to it though. It is sort of different in that I believe the voltages supplied by it are isolated. Meaning, you can not pull say 12V for the coin door lights from the edge connector of the box.

I hope that makes sense, I've been taking cold medicine for the last four days and tend not to make sense at times lately.

Ok, I have no idea what you mean lol. I'm trying to understand I swear.

I'm sure this sounds really stupid but do I have to hook up the jamma wires exactly how the manual reads? The way the jamma connector was setup for Street Fighter has a couple of extra wires in it such as the ground wires where buttons 4, 5 and 6 should be. There are also a couple of wires labeled MTR 1, 2 and Spare 1, 2 and tilt. I did disconnect the wire labeled -5 on both sides, the monitor comes on but it still displays the same thing(I'm worried that I'll ruin something else by not having -5 connected since it was there when I got it). Should I remove the wires from the harness that aren't in the manual for the 450? Could I disconnect them from wherever they lead to since I can't figure out if there is a way to remove the wire from the harness.

Thanks
 
The only wires you need to connect to it for operation are the two sound wires 10, L, the five video wires 12, 13, 14, N, P, the five joystick wires 18, 19, 20, 21, GND(for P1 including ground) and seven button wires 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, GND (for P1 including ground). You do not need to connect +5V, -5v, +12V or anything else. In fact just to test if you have proper video output you only need to connect the five video wires (12 = red, 13 = blue, N = green, P = sync, 14 = vid gnd) and power it up.

EDIT: I forgot to include the coin sw (16 + gnd) and P1 start (17 + gnd) also p2 start (U + gnd)* needed if using two player config also needed to return back to main game list.
 
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The only wires you need to connect to it for operation are the two sound wires 10, L, the five video wires 12, 13, 14, N, P, the five joystick wires 18, 19, 20, 21, GND(for P1 including ground) and seven button wires 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, GND (for P1 including ground). You do not need to connect +5V, -5v, +12V or anything else. In fact just to test if you have proper video output you only need to connect the five video wires (12 = red, 13 = blue, N = green, P = sync, 14 = vid gnd) and power it up.

EDIT: I forgot to include the coin sw (16 + gnd) and P1 start (17 + gnd) also p2 start (U + gnd)* needed if using two player config also needed to return back to main game list.

Ok, I understand this :)

Is there a way to safely remove the wires from the harness?
 
I have one of these boxes..

No need to run power to the Jamma harness and I dont think the grounds are a problem for the 5 an 6 buttons, but you could clip them and rejoin the ones in the harness to the last two grounds

Check the dip switches, one resets the system to default

Also, look to see if the tamper seal is broken. You will know if someone has been inside it..

So, it powers on and you get a light on front? It should turn on when powered on by itself

I would contact you you bought it from next
 
I have one of these boxes..

No need to run power to the Jamma harness and I dont think the grounds are a problem for the 5 an 6 buttons, but you could clip them and rejoin the ones in the harness to the last two grounds

Check the dip switches, one resets the system to default

Also, look to see if the tamper seal is broken. You will know if someone has been inside it..

So, it powers on and you get a light on front? It should turn on when powered on by itself

I would contact you you bought it from next
I have tried setting the dip switches into test mode but I still get the same result.

The tamper seal is there and in tact.

It powers on, the red light comes on and the fan comes on.

I tried it again and I think I can tell that the system is booting up because for about a minute the display flashes and is dull. Then it gets brighter and the solid bars appear.

I have contacted the person but he hasn't come online yet.
 
Does anyone know what the options are on the test menu?

Maybe I can make the selection blind to get it to run a test and that will fix the problem.
 
Update:
I have soldered on the video wires: Red, Blue, Green, Ground and Sync. I still don't get anything different.

Can you post a pic or vid of the image you're getting? Are you getting a beep out of the speaker at all? You should get a boot beep just before the video comes up. These things are a modded computer with a Jamma interface board on them. (Hard drive, MoBo, RAM, PS the whole thing). When powered up you will first see what looks like an out of sync picture, then you will see some text (still not fully legible) but indicates system loading, then you will see the main game selection screen, it's purple with yellow text (game names) and an image of the selected game in the lower right corner. If you don't see any of this, and your connections are correct. I would say you have a board problem. Contact the person you bought it from, they may instruct you to open it up and check the connections, I would not attempt that until they ask you to though.
 
This is the picture that I get after about a minute. Before this comes up I get a mostly black screen with the odd lines running through it. It's not the greatest picture but I hope it shows enough detail. There is some distortion in the bar that runs through the middle of the screen. Adjusting the V and H hold doesn't do much apart from other distortions. I didn't get a beep when I had the speakers hooked up, just more of a squeal when I turned up the knob on the back of the gamebox.
 

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I'm standing my ground on what said in the PMs... it's either mis-pinned sync wire(s) or a bad Gamebox unit. Of course I'm not monitor savy enough to guide you over PMs on how to move the sync pins around but someone here might be. Any chance you have any other Jamma wired cabs to test the Gamebox on to see if you can pull an image on a different monitor?
 
Just got my gamebox 450 in 1 today and I have the exact same problem. no video, no coin door lights.

I have the switch on the power supply set to 115volts (comes 240v)

I removed the grounds from the jamma harness where it uses them for P1 & P2 button 6 incase that was a conflict

I tried just about everything to get it going.

my seal on the case was broken. so it arrived with a broken seal meaning somebody has already been inside the unit. sucks.
 
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Update:

Removed hard drive from the unit and connected it to my desktop computer. With jumper left on master the drive does not power up. if you move the jumper to cable select or slave it powers up but my computer is unable to detect it.

put it back in the unit and put the jumper back to master and the hard drive does not power up in the unit.

my thoughts... bad hard drive.
 
Update:

Removed hard drive from the unit and connected it to my desktop computer. With jumper left on master the drive does not power up. if you move the jumper to cable select or slave it powers up but my computer is unable to detect it.

put it back in the unit and put the jumper back to master and the hard drive does not power up in the unit.

my thoughts... bad hard drive.

During the POST is the HD not detected or is it not detected in Windows?
 
That blows!

The only thing left is looking for an identical drive and swapping the pcb
 
Contacted the seller. Were gonna work something out. Either send it back for a new one, or we might try a hard drive swap. He has the hard drive image so one way or another I should get up and running :)
 
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