Galaxian - Monitor - Dead

Brownie1969

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Hi Guys
Not used my Galaxian for a few months and monitor is dead. I've checked fuses and changed the fuse holder.
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The game plays blind, what would be the next process reflow or a cap kit ? many thanks Dean
 
#1 - the 4 position holder is not the one for the monitor. The two position one is.

#2 - what make/model monitor?

If it's all original, it needs recapping. Period.
 
Had this problem once on my Galaxian, the neck board had slide back but not all the way off. You might check yours, when this happened the monitor didn't charge with static or anything.
 
It's a GO7:
GalaxianVDU007.jpg


GalaxianVDU003.jpg


Thanks guys for your help so far, I'm in the UK any suppliers here for cap kits or do I buy from Bob Roberts ?

There's also an image above of the neck board...
 
need to know what model of monitor you have. take a picture if you dont know then we can help from there. any experience working with monitors?
 
need to know what model of monitor you have. take a picture if you dont know then we can help from there. any experience working with monitors?

I've got no experience sorry to say, I thought the Model was a GO7, should I be looking in a particular place for the model...
 
Hate to say it but it could be anythig from bad solder pads to a Blown Hot and Flyback.
If you want send it to me and I can fix it for you for the parts?return shipping cost plus 40.00 LMK.
 
I've got no experience sorry to say, I thought the Model was a GO7, should I be looking in a particular place for the model...

No, no...you're correct...it's a G07-CBO. He must have been replying to your original post, or you guys posted at the same time.

I've got G07 cap kits, flybacks, etc etc. But, you're over the pond, correct?

edit: yes, you stated that in your post. If you have no experience with it, you may want to find someone local.
 
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Is F901 blown? It's the fuse on the chassis right next to the big filter capacitor. If it is, you need a flyback, HOT, and the fuse. Might as well do caps while you've got it out.

-Ian
 
Checked F901 & F902 both look fine, flyback looks in good condition. I suppose I need to reflow the solder on the chassis and have caps replaced...
 
You have your meter set to DC voltage. You want to have it on Ohms. For a fuse, the lowest setting.

If you want to see what a dead short (a fuse, and other things) looks like, touch the leads together, with the Ohms setting on it's lowest measurement setting. It should read /very/ low. If it reads high (in K Ohms or M Ohms) replace the fuse. If you get NO reading, replace the fuse.

Of course, replace the fuse AFTER the repair. If you touch the black lead to the frame, and the red lead to the case of the horizontal output transistor, and you get a dead short, it's bad.

I can put together a rebuild kit for you, if you'd like. PM me and we'll talk.
 
You have your meter set to DC voltage. You want to have it on Ohms.

Peale, you' getting old. Get some reading glasses or buy a better monitor/computer. :D

He has the DVM set to diode test, the "pointer" of the dial is aiming downwards not up..... hence the 1. in the display, so the fuse IS open indeed.
 
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Yeah, if you've gone so far as to remove the chassis already, then you're good enough to tackle this repair. You should put a full rebuild in that chassis - fuses, caps, HOT, fly, suspect resistors, etc. Follow Peale's advice and get a kit set up from him. Methodically install everything. Reflow recommended areas, and you should have a bulletproof monitor chassis from that point forward.

Contrary to my normal approach of 'don't fix it if it's not broken,' I am definitely in the 'shotgun everything' camp for this chassis. It's just good peace of mind. Especially for the flyback.
 
Well....to start I can already see that the width coil is totally broken off.

See the blank coil of it near the left-bottom corner of the DVM.....

The white plastic top part is gone, here is a pic where it is still intact:
2011_03230007.jpg


Are these available for the G07 ?

[Edit, yes they are available, found them at several arcade parts companies....]
 
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I've found that the width coils are generally fine, as long as the wire itself is intact. It actually provides only a little width control.

As for the meter...oops. Heh.
 
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