Galaga Restoration & TwoBits

moonchilddave

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I unfortunantly stumbled across this blog a little too late as my order from Two Bits arrived today...

http://www.rotheblog.com/2008/05/ar...man-control-panel-overlay-artwork-inaccurate/

Note, I am restoring a Galaga and not a Ms. Pac but I wish I had seen this before I ordered my stuff from these guys. The Galaga CPO while not perfect is probably acceptable in my opinion, along with the monitor bezel however the marquee looks like hell. The color of the white is absolutely horrid - it looks blueish. I also know that I'm now probably stuck trying to find NOS or an original in decent shape. Very disappointed. I thought I'd be getting the best quality since they are the only one's authorized to reproduce these things.

I'm kind of glad now I didn't also order the front and side artwork... Does anyone have a comment about or an actual picture of TwoBits Galaga artwork? If they are decent I may order as I doubt I'll find NOS anywhere, and I'd really like to restore this machine to all it's former glory.
 
however the marquee looks like hell. The color of the white is absolutely horrid - it looks blueish.

Did you pull the protective see-thru blue coating off? It usually comes with it on to keep it from being scratched during delivery.

Two Bits is local to me and my boss has purchased lots of artwork (including Galaga) from them in the past. I understand the nit-picks about the Ms. Pac artwork (although it looks good to the casual owner), but I have never had an issue with the Galaga artwork, and I haven't heard any complaints from others that wasn't price-related...
 
Damn... my bad! Much better looking now, I feel like an ass. It confused me a little because it was already shrink wrapped for protection. I will miss the Midway and Bally logos on the marquee - but again, it's acceptable (and short of those is a pretty good reproduction).

Now back to the control panel work... For removing the gummy crap on it so I can start sanding, what do people recommend? Goo Gone? Lighter fluid? Acetone?

And since this is my first CPO install, should I primer/paint the control panel before applying the overlay and do I need to use additional adhesive or is the backing sufficient (I assume it's a peel and stick - but it didn't come with any instructions or hints).
 
I usually use a razor blade to get the top layer off (some throw it in the oven for a bit to heat it up and peel it off). Then I spray it down with WD-40, let it sit for about 15 minutes, then use my razor blade to get it all off, using sandpaper at the end (although some use a wire brush drill accessory) until it's completely stripped and smooth. Clean it and let it dry over night (make sure all WD-40 residue is gone), then I paint around the joystick hole with satin-black spray paint (since the edges are visible once the overlay is on). Then you just peel an stick.

Yours should be die-cut with the button and joystick cutouts for alignment, but if you're worried about putting it on (like Phet), you can just peel off the backing for the bottom half (not where the buttons are), put some buttons in the holes to line it up properly, fold it over to stick the part you peeled off, take out the buttons and remove the rest of the backing, then smooth on the rest of the overlay. If you have some clamps, it'll help with the folding over the top if it doesn't want to stick....
 
If you're interested in purchasing sideart, I HIGHLY recommend you go here:

http://www.phoenixarcade.com/art.htm

hard to go wrong with his stuff..

I purchased a repro set years ago from Vic S. that, while very nicely done, has "Namco" on it. I think this is how 2-Bit's stuff is. It's generally more desirable to have the Midway logo, as the original art did. Phonixarcade's has the Midway logo.
 
If you're interested in purchasing sideart, I HIGHLY recommend you go here:

http://www.phoenixarcade.com/art.htm

hard to go wrong with his stuff..

I purchased a repro set years ago from Vic S. that, while very nicely done, has "Namco" on it. I think this is how 2-Bit's stuff is. It's generally more desirable to have the Midway logo, as the original art did. Phonixarcade's has the Midway logo.

Thanks for the very kind words.

I do have the Midway logos and the art on my cpo and marquee are night and day better than the other Namco versions out there. Mine is based off the original art. I have no idea what the Namco version is based off. They're that much different.

btw, my cpo doesnt have the bolt holes for the joystick so you can use original or repro style sticks with it. I was asked to do this specifically by many people.
 
Thanks for the very kind words.

I do have the Midway logos and the art on my cpo and marquee are night and day better than the other Namco versions out there. Mine is based off the original art. I have no idea what the Namco version is based off. They're that much different.

btw, my cpo doesnt have the bolt holes for the joystick so you can use original or repro style sticks with it. I was asked to do this specifically by many people.

Is there any chance you will change your mind and make the Ms. Pac CPO?
 
So since this is my first overlay install - I've read about 2 different methods... One where you use a little water and soap when installing and then squeegee it out. Sounds like this gives you a little more room to work on placement - but I would think it would be trouble if you didn't get ALL the water out.
 
So since this is my first overlay install - I've read about 2 different methods... One where you use a little water and soap when installing and then squeegee it out. Sounds like this gives you a little more room to work on placement - but I would think it would be trouble if you didn't get ALL the water out.

I use the wet method with side art and full vinyl installations, but never on CPO's. The bends and directional changes will never hold in place long enough to remain taught when using the wet method on a CPO. Do it dry.
 
So since this is my first overlay install - I've read about 2 different methods... One where you use a little water and soap when installing and then squeegee it out. Sounds like this gives you a little more room to work on placement - but I would think it would be trouble if you didn't get ALL the water out.

The artwork breathes. The water will dry up. If you do end up with bubbles, gently poke them with a pin and flatten. I do all my sideart dry, but I tape it up and measure it first so it's right the first time. You don't want bubbles with CPOs so make sure you lay it down very slowly and press it down hard as you go. Once it sticks, it's stuck, and poking a hole in the CPO to get rid of an air bubble will likely be visible.

Oh - and props to Phoenix Arcade. I wish they printed everything. I love their stuff and they're zealots for correctness and quality. Can't ask for much more.
 
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As nice as that looks... I'd absolutely have to stick with stenciled sides for Ms. Pac (or Pac)...
 
I thought I'd be getting the best quality since they are the only one's authorized to reproduce these things.

I'm kind of glad now I didn't also order the front and side artwork... Does anyone have a comment about or an actual picture of TwoBits Galaga artwork? If they are decent I may order as I doubt I'll find NOS anywhere, and I'd really like to restore this machine to all it's former glory.

They are the worst..
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=121255&highlight=pac+shat
The guy lies, and his stuff is junk.. and instead of fixing it, he just keeps selling it while posting pics of things that are not what you are getting. I'll never buy from him again and would pay more for NOS no matter what the cost, just to not support the guy. I emailed Namco with a complaint and suggest everyone else do as well.

p.s. check his monitors.. THey are probably Kortek or something similar but he makes up a part number of 'WG; to confuse people into thinking they might be getting a Wells.. the guy is a lowlife.
 
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I will confirm - his monitors are Kortek, at least the one I got. Can't complain about it too much it seems like a decent monitor, and new 19" monitors are getting harder to find (or I just don't know where to look). Still a bit outrageous on the price. The WG part number is misleading though.
 
More on the restoration... Currently it has a HAPP switcher in it but all original wiring looks intact. So now I am debating about restoring it to it's original glory.. It's apparent the original supply went up as there are burn marks both connectors (as well as them being cracked). There is also a big smoky streak leading up from the two big diodes (along with brown marks around the leads of both diodes and the nearby fuse holder).

For me personally - I prefer reliability over originality. So, would it be worth my while to try and repair this board (are all parts even still available)? If so, are there any good documents on repairing this specific board? Or would I be better served just leaving it in place should I ever decide to sell to another collector?

Also, I have a new monitor all set to go in as well. Am I correct in thinking that I can just wire it straight into the power without worrying about the isolation transformer?

BTW, ordered new side art and marquee from Phoenix Arcade - excellent quality and damn fast shipping (thanks all for the recommendation)!!! :)
 
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