Galaga Paint question

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and make sure it's the oil-based. I tried latex black and it looked like crap..best I can describe is it looks faded compared to oil based, where oil based is a deep black. Also, oil or lacquer will typically give a better finish and spray much better.
 
That's the same paint I use with great results, here's what works for me:

1. De-lint your roller by chucking it in a vice and using 2" strips of masking tape back and forth across it until no more lint comes off. It will take two or three strips about three feet long to get this done.

2. Apply the first coat and roll evenly so that no tracks are showing, let it dry at least a day or two depending on local conditions.

3. Using a random orbit sander with 600 grit attached to a Shop Vac via the dust collector port, sand and vacuum the entire cabinet. Follow up by spraying Windex and use paper towels to wipe down the entire cabinet. I realize Windex might make some cringe here, but it's a technique popular with many car customizers.

4. Roll on your final coat using a new de-linted roller, being careful not to leave any tracks.

5. Admire your work because it will be flawless:

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I wouldn't use a roller again, ever. They sell the stain black in spray cans and I sprayed the front of mine with it and it looks good. The sides I rolled on and they are good from far but far from good. Unless you have some zen roller techniques you will regret it. Everyone in my resto thread says use a sprayer and thin your paint accordingly. If you plan on doing more cabinets in the future you can get a HVLP turbine setup for 120-200 it seems. I have no experience with one but it sounds like a good idea at a decent price. Good luck!
 
That's the only black I use for any cabs I'm working on. I've only used a HVLP setup and haven't rolled it. Goes and great and the end result is a very smooth paint job.

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1. De-lint your roller by chucking it in a vice and using 2" strips of masking tape back and forth across it until no more lint comes off. It will take two or three strips about three feet long to get this done.


I de-lint my rollers by hitting them with my shop vac from end to end and all around.
 
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using a standard auto body spray gun, Cup...what ratio % do you guys reduce at and do you use laquer thinner..mineral spirits or....???

B.
 
Rolling works if you cant spray. You just need to use high density foam rollers and put on ultra thin coats. You'll probably need 10 coats. It can be flawless, just takes time.
 
Thanks for the input guys!

Too bad i won't be able to use spray-paint so its going to be rolled on. One more question: What do you mean by de-linting the rollers? English isn't my first language so i don't really understand what you mean.

btw your cabinet looks flawless, very impressive!

That's the same paint I use with great results, here's what works for me:

1. De-lint your roller by chucking it in a vice and using 2" strips of masking tape back and forth across it until no more lint comes off. It will take two or three strips about three feet long to get this done.

Multicadenewart3.jpg
 
Nice work! What kind of primer do you use?

That's the same paint I use with great results, here's what works for me:

1. De-lint your roller by chucking it in a vice and using 2" strips of masking tape back and forth across it until no more lint comes off. It will take two or three strips about three feet long to get this done.

2. Apply the first coat and roll evenly so that no tracks are showing, let it dry at least a day or two depending on local conditions.

3. Using a random orbit sander with 600 grit attached to a Shop Vac via the dust collector port, sand and vacuum the entire cabinet. Follow up by spraying Windex and use paper towels to wipe down the entire cabinet. I realize Windex might make some cringe here, but it's a technique popular with many car customizers.

4. Roll on your final coat using a new de-linted roller, being careful not to leave any tracks.

5. Admire your work because it will be flawless:
 
Paint rollers will lose some of their fibers when they are first used, fouling the paint. I put the roller tube on a handle, put the handle in a vice to hold it with the roller up, and then hold a straight piece of 2 inch wide masking tape straight.

Run that tape back and forth across the rollers so the sticky side is pulling on the roller fibers and it will remove any lose ones, preventing them from fouling your paint. Sometimes you need to repeat the process with a new piece of tape 2 or 3 times to get all the loose lint fibers off the roller.

The ones that remain should stay on the roller, and won't foul your paint. I use the 3 pack of rollers from Home Depot, they've got white fibers with lime green plastic centers.

As for primer, I don't use any and the cab I pictured was bare wood before I started, it's actually a cabinet I built from scratch. The purpose of the first coat and sanding is to act as a primer of sorts.

I've painted dozens of cabs using that method, it's cheap, quick, and looks excellent. The comment I get most often is, "is that Formica?"
 
I use FOAM rollers for projects like this. ONLY, because I don't have a sprayer yet. I'll be ROLLING a Galaga cab in the next couple days with Rustoleum Satin.... check out the restoration showcase........
 
using a standard auto body spray gun, Cup...what ratio % do you guys reduce at and do you use laquer thinner..mineral spirits or....???

B.

That RustOleum oil based paint I've used specifies acetone to thin, up to 15%. I mix it in a dollar store cheap 2 cup measuring cup, roughly 15% acetone 85% paint. That's worked great for me. Pour through a cone filter into the gun cup.
 
Paint rollers will lose some of their fibers when they are first used, fouling the paint. I put the roller tube on a handle, put the handle in a vice to hold it with the roller up, and then hold a straight piece of 2 inch wide masking tape straight.

Run that tape back and forth across the rollers so the sticky side is pulling on the roller fibers and it will remove any lose ones, preventing them from fouling your paint. Sometimes you need to repeat the process with a new piece of tape 2 or 3 times to get all the loose lint fibers off the roller.

The ones that remain should stay on the roller, and won't foul your paint. I use the 3 pack of rollers from Home Depot, they've got white fibers with lime green plastic centers.

As for primer, I don't use any and the cab I pictured was bare wood before I started, it's actually a cabinet I built from scratch. The purpose of the first coat and sanding is to act as a primer of sorts.

I've painted dozens of cabs using that method, it's cheap, quick, and looks excellent. The comment I get most often is, "is that Formica?"

Excellent explanation, thanks for that!!!
 
Rustoleum can be used with a foam roller with good self levelling results if you thin it to about 50% (mineral spirits). Granted at this level it goes one really thin and you need to apply several coats with sanding between coats (or every second coat).

This is generally the method that several car guys are using to repaint their cars - if you do a google seach for "$50 paint job" you will come across several links. While I have not done this personally, I have seen a couple of cars that this process was used on and I must admit that the results are very impressive for a roller job and so far is holding up well for about 3 years now on one car. Time consuming, but it does come out perfectly smooth...
 
Isn't the guy who started that in Canada? I think he originally did a VW then a Charger. Some people have gotten really good results but it takes a lot of time a lot of sanding and a lot of patience. Video games are much easier and you can get good results but if you ever wanted to do a car with the amount of work involved buy a compressor and a gun.
 
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