G08 work

Zinfer

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Ok, this may sound a little funky to the old hats and pro's of monitor repair. But being we don't have any of those in NW Ohio, I'm giving it my best shot. I ran a cap kit on the G08 which also covered the high voltage board.
There is a white line that leads from the monitors neckboard to the adjust (focus adjust), coming directly off the HV cage. When I got it, it was soldered on, making it impossible to seperate the deflection board from the chassis, or at least from the high voltage board.
Is there supposed to be a PIN that plugs on there rather than it being directly soldered?
Reason being I'd like to find a link or source of these pins so that I can get this monitor put back together properly.
And yes, I know I need to cut my fingernails...
 

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Well I'm surprised. So your supposed to desolder that whenever you run a cap kit? Wow. That's news. Ok, well thanks!
 
When the monitor was originally designed/built, I'm sure the designers weren't thinking of convenience for someone doing a cap kit on it 28 years later. ;)
 
Or themselves apparently, when they have monitors come back in for repair.
 
When I work with them, I clip it in the middle and then crimp on an insulated bullet connector. It helps me swap in spares and slip it in and out while testing.
 
When the monitor was originally designed/built, I'm sure the designers weren't thinking of convenience for someone doing a cap kit on it 28 years later. ;)

Not too mention that when these things were built the manufactures gave them a life span of 2-3 years. After that they didnt care what happened to them. However, we all know that GO-8's didnt work anywhere near that long in the wild.

In the early 80's cap kits didn't exist. When you had one or two bad caps you changed them and didn't worry about the other caps. Cap kits didnt make the scene until the late to mid 80's.

Matt
 
Now that is the first sensible suggestion I've seen. A bullet connector is what they call them eh? Going to have to pick some of those up, that is a very good idea. Thank you!

When I work with them, I clip it in the middle and then crimp on an insulated bullet connector. It helps me swap in spares and slip it in and out while testing.
 
When I work with them, I clip it in the middle and then crimp on an insulated bullet connector. It helps me swap in spares and slip it in and out while testing.

I wouldn't do that... those wires run pretty high voltages, and most of those insulated connectors aren't meant for that. Pulling back the rubber boot and desoldering seems perfectly reasonable to me... and unless you're pulling apart the same monitor over and over, it seems like more work to cut, strip and install a connector than to just desolder and resolder once. I mean, you're disassembling to do some soldering, so you've got a soldering iron... ;) .

DogP
 
I wouldn't do that... those wires run pretty high voltages, and most of those insulated connectors aren't meant for that.

+1

I'm pretty sure that regular insulated connectors can "leak" at around 600 volts. If I recall right that focus wire runs in the 4k range. Now its not going to leak to GND or chassis or anything (unless the connector is close to something) but it will leak to your hand if its nearby.

Matt
 
Owch! Dude I can take a 12v hit. Anything over that is beyond my superhuman abilities. However, I know my abilities with a G08, this being my first - I expect to have my one hand on the interlock when first power up and the other on the fire extinguisher. Everything noted on my page I have replaced and hacking repaired to nearest I can tell, factory specs.
I know to expect to have to pull this chassis more than once. I'll replace the resistors at 633 and 634 and then have them burnt up again. Why I ordered 50 of each. :D
I will do as the Monitor Gods say and just solder the connection.
However (once again another however) when this hades hell of a monitor does blow up in my face again, I would like to know who is a reputable tech to have it done and done right. I know Chad won't do it. So right now it's all on me.
At present humidity levels are costing me dear time in readying the cabinet for reassembly. I will NOT hook up the pcb stack before powering the monitor to see if my fixes worked.
I want a safe and stable G08. But I don't intend on being absent any moment my arcade is up and running. I take the example of Terry Shaw very seriously.
 
I've been putting the bullet connectors on that focus wire for some time now and have never been 'bit' by it. I had some concerns about the voltage level, but it doesn't bother me now. That said, I wouldn't try it with the anode wire.

Hey- first step when fixing one of these is to ohm out the power transistors. You can find a shorted one easily. If you don't replace a bad one, they'll eat some other items.

Once that's going, you can fire it up with the yoke unplugged. You should be able to measure around all the chassis-generated low voltages and fix those if bad. Any shorts in the deflection circuitry will probably show up as smoking components too.

If you've got a scope, you should be able to see some signal getting to the output transistors.

HV troubleshooting is a little harder, but keep at it.

K
 
Thanks man. Anyone volunteer to come on over here and teach me how to use this scope effectively. :)
Kind of like buying a guitar with the intention of playing it someday lol
 
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