G07 weirdness

H. freq adjustment should get that curl out. Like @tron guy said, you may have to compromise on the centering a little. Usually, I'll reduce the size a bit, then adjust the curl out and get the image nice and square. Then center the position as best as possible without reintroducing curl. That's my preference at least.
 
H. freq adjustment should get that curl out. Like @tron guy said, you may have to compromise on the centering a little. Usually, I'll reduce the size a bit, then adjust the curl out and get the image nice and square. Then center the position as best as possible without reintroducing curl. That's my preference at least.
Gotcha. I'll try that. I just put it in the game and it seems worse, if that's possible. So, by reducing size, you think I should put a different width cap in it just vertical size?
 

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Gotcha. I'll try that. I just put it in the game and it seems worse, if that's possible. So, by reducing size, you think I should put a different width cap in it just vertical size?

Only if you can't reduce the horizontal size enough with the coil. If you aren't able to reduce it to the point where there is black on both sides, you may have to change the value of cap. Vertical size shouldn't affect anything.
 
Only if you can't reduce the horizontal size enough with the coil. If you aren't able to reduce it to the point where there is black on both sides, you may have to change the value of cap. Vertical size shouldn't affect anything.
The width coil didn't really make any difference before. That's why I changed the cap. It's also inaccessible while in the frame.
 
The width coil didn't really make any difference before. That's why I changed the cap. It's also inaccessible while in the frame.

You should be able to get at least a good inch or so of adjustment out of the coil. If not, I'd check the coil and area surrounding it for bad/cold solder, and look over the coil too. It's possible it's cracked and/or broken. People tend to downplay how much adjustment you can get out of a good coil.

By inaccessible, you're saying you can't get to it at all?
 
This is as good as I can get it after changing the width cap again to reduce the width. I can't stand it. It looks crooked at the bottom.
 

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This is as good as I can get it after changing the width cap again to reduce the width. I can't stand it. It looks crooked at the bottom.
Did you use a 220uf in both C517 & C518? The crookedness is a geometry issue I think
 
You should be able to get at least a good inch or so of adjustment out of the coil. If not, I'd check the coil and area surrounding it for bad/cold solder, and look over the coil too. It's possible it's cracked and/or broken. People tend to downplay how much adjustment you can get out of a good coil.

By inaccessible, you're saying you can't get to it at all?
Coil is solid. I could buy a new one. No way to adjust real time. Have to pull it out of the frame to get a tool in there.
 

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Did you use a 220uf in both C517 & C518? The crookedness is a geometry issue I think
I can check. What should they be? I capped this a few years ago and new flyback, etc. It's been sitting on a shelf till I needed it.

Edit: c517 is 100uf 25v and c518 is 220uf 16v.
 
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Few questions:

1) Is this an original G07 tube & yoke?

2) Is the crookedness on the top and bottom? If so, that's just a matter of rotating the yoke.

3) To me, the image looks slightly bowed at the top and bottom. Is this correct?
 
I can check. What should they be? I capped this a few years ago and new flyback, etc. It's been sitting on a shelf till I needed it.

Edit: c517 is 100uf 25v and c518 is 220uf 16v.
I typically use a 470 uf and a 6 or 10 uf for the 2 caps. I get the squarest image with this combination. (ymmv). You definitely have some type of hourglass thing happening.

Funny enough, I solved a big hourglass problem very recently, by running a bunch of jumpers along the pads from the flyback. There were small cracks, that beeped with continuity, but I could see the cracks. Ran the jumper wires, and it was the best image I had ever seen after that. These 3 are before pics. It looked MUCH worse in person, I assure you.
 

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After pic
 

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I typically use a 470 uf and a 6 or 10 uf for the 2 caps. I get the squarest image with this combination. (ymmv). You definitely have some type of hourglass thing happening.

Funny enough, I solved a big hourglass problem very recently, by running a bunch of jumpers along the pads from the flyback. There were small cracks, that beeped with continuity, but I could see the cracks. Ran the jumper wires, and it was the best image I had ever seen after that. These 3 are before pics. It looked MUCH worse in person, I assure you.
So, you suggest a 470 in 517 and a 10 in 518? I can try that tomorrow. This was a kit from a reputable source and seems to match what most list. Happy to take your expert advice.
 
Thats what I do. Though I measure each cap before I put it in, there is a variance. Sometimes, I'll go 330uf and a 200uf. 330 and a 100.

9 times out of 10 though I go 470 and 6.8 or 10 uf. It doesn't matter which one is in which position, but I always do the higher value, further north on the chassis.
 
Thats what I do. Though I measure each cap before I put it in, there is a variance. Sometimes, I'll go 330uf and a 200uf. 330 and a 100.

9 times out of 10 though I go 470 and 6.8 or 10 uf. It doesn't matter which one is in which position, but I always do the higher value, further north on the chassis.
I had both of those sizes on hand. I placed the 470 closest to the tube and the 10 closest to the rear of the chassis. It's better, but still off.
 

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Other than bringing your vertical size down a tiny amount and possibly centering it a little more vertically left, I can't make out what the issue is.
 
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Other than bringing your vertical size down a tiny amount and possibly centering it a little more vertically left, I can't make out what the issue is.
It's curling at the bottom left corner. I wonder if changing c517 and 518 to some of the other suggested values would help and also if widening the pic will look better now that I changed those 2.
 
I think I can live with this. Put the other width cap back in which is a 184. Fills the screen with only a little crookedness on the bottom. If changing c517 and 518 can help more, I'm certainly willing to try that, but it's ok as is, if not. Thanks for all the help, everyone.
 

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