G07 "ticking" sound, and red circle/blob in center screen

yes the HOT is the 2sd870 on the side there.



what do you have the white wire off the flyback connected to? it doesn't look like its connected to the focus block.



Pic above was one I Googled for reference, not my monitor. [emoji3] White is where it should be, where the original was wired up to (the black with two white adjustment knobs). That 2sd870 seems to be the issue considering how it seems to be allowing current through it


Tim
 
Do you have any kind of image on the monitor? Can you see anything arcing anywhere? Double check your Flyback is properly installed. Have you measured your B+? Have you tested your HOT with a meter?
 
There's a flash of red on monitor, that seems to pulse in from the left and right, into the centre of the monitor to make a small blob of red. It seems to undulate like a pulse.

Nothing arcing that I can see, but will power on with all lights out in room tonight. Flyback is properly installed (plus same issue/symptom when the old flyback was in). Have not measured B+ or HOT, unsure how the B+ may change?

The only thing immediately before the issue, we had friends over and a kid playing it banged the control panel (not too hard), which could have thrown an adjustment or loosened something?

Tim
 
G07's are known for cold solder joints. I would go over the chassis and rework any solder joints that look off. Rework everywhere there is a header pin for a connector. Double check all of the solder joints around the flyback and HOT. Make sure your HOT's connections are still soldered on properly. I had G07 in a poker machine I sold to someone and they slammed the machine down and it knocked a trace right off the board with the the solder pad still attached and that was causing intermittent collapse. So you never know what damage just banging on it can cause.
 
Found this: http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=257533&highlight=g07+hot+ticking

Which basically describes my symptoms. There's two fuses on chassis board? Large one I have seen, not blown. Don't think other is blown, but will check.

If HOT is an issue, it "should" blow fuse correct? If fuses ok, then I suspect the transformer for the HOT (the T501), just figured transformers tend not to die?

Anyways, I think I have it pinpointed to this area

Tim
 
Found this: http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=257533&highlight=g07+hot+ticking

Which basically describes my symptoms. There's two fuses on chassis board? Large one I have seen, not blown. Don't think other is blown, but will check.

If HOT is an issue, it "should" blow fuse correct? If fuses ok, then I suspect the transformer for the HOT (the T501), just figured transformers tend not to die?

Anyways, I think I have it pinpointed to this area

Tim

make sure to check the fuses with a ohm meter.
 
Found this: http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=257533&highlight=g07+hot+ticking

Which basically describes my symptoms. There's two fuses on chassis board? Large one I have seen, not blown. Don't think other is blown, but will check.

If HOT is an issue, it "should" blow fuse correct? If fuses ok, then I suspect the transformer for the HOT (the T501), just figured transformers tend not to die?

Anyways, I think I have it pinpointed to this area

Tim

There are lots of things in that thread and after reading it sounds like re-flowing solder is what actually fixed the problem. Your HOT could be out of spec/failing. If it fails short it will blow the fuse.
 
FFS, doesn't help that I've never fixed a monitor before, but this thing still not working. New flyback, new HOT.

The ticking sounds like a second hand on a clock, it's very consistent. It does sound like something shorting, but in dark, I see no sparking and can't pinpoint it. Considering the Pacman burn on this one, am going to just try to source another whole working one from someone local at this point. Arg


I need to look at the traces next I guess, which was something listed I should check too.

Tim
 
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FFS, doesn't help that I've never fixed a monitor before, but this thing still not working. New flyback, new HOT.

The ticking sounds like a second hand on a clock, it's very consistent. It does sound like something shorting, but in dark, I see no sparking and can't pinpoint it. Considering the Pacman burn on this one, am going to just try to source another whole working one from someone local at this point. Arg


I need to look at the traces next I guess, which was something listed I should check too.

Tim


when your checking traces make sure to use a ohm meter and watch the meter reading because sometimes you have a crack that will still read continuity but its not perfect so you get a higher ohm reading. they can be time consuming to find sometimes.
 
Just frustrated. Not a lot of time for myself to work on it, and hate when things are not working. If there was no burn in, then I would be completely on board to fix it 100%. Just pisses me off [emoji853]


Tim
 
Ok, is this high voltage shutdown? Measured B+ and it is way over 120VDC, and adjusting R909 does not lower it.




Tim
 
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Yup HV shutdown. B+ won't adjust until you get it out of HV shutdown If you replaced the flyback and the hot. It's probably IC501.
 
Yup HV shutdown. B+ won't adjust until you get it out of HV shutdown If you replaced the flyback and the hot. It's probably IC501.

Thanks, appreciate the input! I can easily remove that IC then, I'll need to find where to get a replacement one. Unsure if my local electronic store (Sayal) has them. They may though.

Tim
 
Thanks, appreciate the input! I can easily remove that IC then, I'll need to find where to get a replacement one. Unsure if my local electronic store (Sayal) has them. They may though.

Tim

i have tons in stock of them.


have you tested with X701 pulled out?
 
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Thanks! Am starting to suspect it's much more than just that IC now. I reflowed a whole bunch in the area I'm hearing the ticking, inspected traces etc, everything looks good.

Am thinking at this point it may be just easier for me to buy a redone or known working G07-CBO chassis and keep this one aside for the new flyback that is on it.

Tim
 
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