g07 smaller fuse blown

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f902? I think, anyway, it's the smaller one.

The hot appears to be good, the flyback doesn't look cracked or oozing.
The bigger fuse is good.
There was no charge in the b+ filter cap (proper term)?

1. Do any stores tend to sell these with the legs on them to solder in?

I did replace the entire chassis with a rebuilt one and the game works perfect now, so there doesn't appear to be any other issues with the cab.

Just a bad fuse and that's it?
guess I need to replace it and see if it blows again first huh?
 
f902? I think, anyway, it's the smaller one.

The hot appears to be good, the flyback doesn't look cracked or oozing.
The bigger fuse is good.
There was no charge in the b+ filter cap (proper term)?

1. Do any stores tend to sell these with the legs on them to solder in?

I did replace the entire chassis with a rebuilt one and the game works perfect now, so there doesn't appear to be any other issues with the cab.

Just a bad fuse and that's it?
guess I need to replace it and see if it blows again first huh?

1. Do any stores tend to sell these with the legs on them to solder in?
Any good electronics store should have them, pigtail fuses
I guess you know you can get the fuses from Bob Roberts. To save fuses wile trouble shooting you can make a circuit breaker with alligator clips on each end and clip it to the blown fuse. once you fix the problem just solder in a new fuse. Bob also sells these ready made.
http://www.therealbobroberts.net/cirbreaker.html
As for what might blow F902, could be shorted diodes D901 - 904 but this is rare.
Try unplugging the degaussing coil as it could have a short.
 
Your fly is dead Dylan, you've experienced what i call the quiet flyback failure. If you wanna have some fun with the chassis before you officially fix it, stick a 2 or 3 amp slow blo in there and fire it up again. This time, you'll get to see the case of the fly blow wide open which will visually confirm that this is your problem.
 
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Ive got one that blew the jr fuse..I jumpered it with my breaker, and it fired up, but R311 and R402 started smoking.. This chassis apparently sat in a shed for several years, and has lots of crud all over it, even after I scrubbed and hosed it off. Anybody seen these resistors fry? Im going to cap it, clean all the pots, new fly, and see what happens.

Andrew
 
Your fly is dead Dylan, you've experienced what i call the quiet flyback failure. If you wanna have some fun with the chassis before you officially fix it, stick a 2 or 3 amp slow blo in there and fire it up again. This time, you'll get to see the case of the fly blow wide open which will visually confirm that this is your problem.

I'm all for doing shit like this. When the flyback blows and I gonna catch any debris?
 
One of two things is gonna happen. You will hear the sound of cracking plastic followed by alot of smoke as the copper winding spills through the crack or in some cases it will blow a chunk of the case off the fly and still produce alot of smoke. Either way, keep your face outta there.
 
Me too!

One of two things is gonna happen. You will hear the sound of cracking plastic followed by alot of smoke as the copper winding spills through the crack or in some cases it will blow a chunk of the case off the fly and still produce alot of smoke. Either way, keep your face outta there.

Exact same thing happened to me small fuse blown HOT looks good no cracks in flyback -- so I stuck a 2 amp fast blown homemade pigtail for a quick test.

fired it up a second I hear a crackle then smoke start pouring out of that sucker! I mean thick smoke like you couldn't see you hand in front of your face smoke!

Basement still stinks a day later!! I got a new one on order. Hopefully that its. HOT still checks out good after the smoke

Its for sure sure fried now! Strangely the fuse didn't blow agian? 2amp was a enough not to blow I guess?
 
caps?

Exact same thing happened to me small fuse blown HOT looks good no cracks in flyback -- so I stuck a 2 amp fast blown homemade pigtail for a quick test.

fired it up a second I hear a crackle then smoke start pouring out of that sucker! I mean thick smoke like you couldn't see you hand in front of your face smoke!

Basement still stinks a day later!! I got a new one on order. Hopefully that its. HOT still checks out good after the smoke

Its for sure sure fried now! Strangely the fuse didn't blow agian? 2amp was a enough not to blow I guess?

I had just done a cap kit a week before -- do I need to do it again? Do any of the caps fry too? I'm getting another kit anyway (Deluxe this time) Guess I should just do it all to make sure.
 
well for the record once I got in and took the flyback out, it had some very minor leaking underneath.

replaced it and the smaller fuse (I went ahead and recapped it as well) and she's perfect now.
 
I had just done a cap kit a week before -- do I need to do it again? Do any of the caps fry too? I'm getting another kit anyway (Deluxe this time) Guess I should just do it all to make sure.

If you JUST capped it, then likely not.

This next statement is for anyone reading on G07 rebuilds in the future:

If you are capping a G07, AND IT HAS AN ORIGINAL FLYBACK, REPLACE THE FLYBACK WHEN YOU CAP THE MONITOR!!!!!

Don't even think about it. It's necessary. SOMETIMES you'll get lucky. It's not worth the hassle to take the chance. And - as long as you can align the flyback pins in the circuit board - it's dead easy.
 
followup

If you JUST capped it, then likely not.

This next statement is for anyone reading on G07 rebuilds in the future:

If you are capping a G07, AND IT HAS AN ORIGINAL FLYBACK, REPLACE THE FLYBACK WHEN YOU CAP THE MONITOR!!!!!

Don't even think about it. It's necessary. SOMETIMES you'll get lucky. It's not worth the hassle to take the chance. And - as long as you can align the flyback pins in the circuit board - it's dead easy.

I didn't recap it (it was literally 1 week ago I did cap it no exaggeration). I just put in the new flyback and a correct fuse and its works great again!
 
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