G07 - ripple

texasmame

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Okay, now that the LCD issue is passed (sadly) back to getting the G07 in the Spy. :)

All voltages are good, per the flow chart.

Still, I get this ripple:

View My Video

It's been capped and the one cap that I had in backwards (neck board) has been replaced with a fresh one.

FWIW, this chassis was doing this rippling BEFORE the cap kit as well.

Thoughts?
 
first thought filter cap 680uf 200v i think. voltage regulator, B+. thats where i would start. might be the two big caps at the bottom of your cab.
 
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first thought filter cap 680uf 200v i think. voltage regulator, B+. thats where i would start. might be the two big caps at the bottom of your cab.

Yeah, hooked it up in Defender and it's all good.

Thx for the lead.
 
first thought filter cap 680uf 200v i think. voltage regulator, B+. thats where i would start. might be the two big caps at the bottom of your cab.

Got the PS out now. How would I go about testing them to see if they are good or not?

Then again - I DO have a switcher available. . .
 
it better be a heavy duty switcher, mcr games are picky about that. you might get bad background hum.its better to swap out those caps and rebuild your power supply. i dont like how switchers operate in mcr games, IMO. unless you got a meter to test capacitance I would just replace them.
 
Actually sent this to arcadeshop last night but haven't heard back yet:

~~~
I've got a question about hooking the MCR switcher up to a Spy Hunter:

From your instructions:

"Step Four: Hooking up 120 V.A.C. power to the new Black/Silver supply:

Using the two provided wires, connect the two ends to the A.C. L and A.C N terminals. Next
connect the other ends to the two wires feeding power to the monitor. Normally these are Black
and White wires near the monitor.
WARNING! DO NOT USE THE OUTLET in the bottom of the game. Many people have done this, and
frankly its wrong. The outlet is NOT switched on in all games, that means even if you turn the power
off from the games normal power switch, the game will still be running. Only the monitor would go
off."

Wouldn't you still have to run the monitor through the iso transformer in the bottom of the cab and NOT directly from the switcher?

Also, I have a computer power supply that is 5V/18A, 12V/10A, -5V/0.3A and -12V/0.5A. This would accomidate a Spy Hunter's power supply needs if hooked to your MCR switcher adapter, correct?


Thx.

~~~

Think that computer PS has enough amps as they recommend 4 on the 12V.
 
when you splice in the switcher to the monitor you are drawing power from the iso. to power the switching power supply and the monitor, in other words the switcher is being powered from the isolation transformer.
 
when you splice in the switcher to the monitor you are drawing power from the iso. to power the switching power supply and the monitor, in other words the switcher is being powered from the isolation transformer.

Ah, okay. So you have to keep the whole power block on the bottom of the cab still then and wire the 120 to the switcher from that, not directly from the line in.
 
the kit gives you the wires that have a special end that splices right into the monitor wires, takes 10 minutes to set the whole thing up.
 
the kit gives you the wires that have a special end that splices right into the monitor wires, takes 10 minutes to set the whole thing up.

K.

Emailed Bob about getting the big caps as I didn't see them listed on his site.

EDIT: Order coming from him including the two big caps. He said the oil one doesn't need replacing. Will advise on results. . .
 
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