G07 recap shorting

i suspect your testing something wrong with your meter or its settings. the monitor voltages are tested in AC volts and DC volts depending on what your testing on the chassis. for instance the fuses are AC volts and the B+ is DC volts. you can't have 147vdc without your fuses having power but they are AC volts and can only have one lead on either end and the other lead to neutral/gnd on the AC side not DC side.

fuses will always have voltage on them after the "initial boot" if your monitor otherwise your monitor won't work.

are you testing the HOTs with a diode test on your DDM?

Hm. Your informations made check the fuse again. I got nothing on both DC and AC . But your mention of ground made me go from fuse to chassis frame. I get 158 from f901 and 74 from F902. Both VDC. Thank you, now i know how to test voltage on fuses.

Both gets the same result on the HOTs. 47 to be exact(200&2000 omh, get diode/continuity). Buffet's video however showed me i was doing it wrong.
47 is in BETWEEN both legs. Getting 400-500 in between case and leg for each. I,m not getting .001 between the legs as i should ... Then both my HOTs were shorted all along, both the new and old ones...?
Thanks for the video buffet.
 
Hm. Your informations made check the fuse again. I got nothing on both DC and AC . But your mention of ground made me go from fuse to chassis frame. I get 158 from f901 and 74 from F902. Both VDC. Thank you, now i know how to test voltage on fuses.

Both gets the same result on the HOTs. 47 to be exact(200&2000 omh, get diode/continuity). Buffet's video however showed me i was doing it wrong.
47 is in BETWEEN both legs. Getting 400-500 in between case and leg for each. I,m not getting .001 between the legs as i should ... Then both my HOTs were shorted all along, both the new and old ones...?
Thanks for the video buffet.

the fuses should test AC volts. you only use one meter lead (red) on either end of the fuse (doesn't matter which end as long as the fuse is good) and the black lead on the AC neutral/GND. if you need HOT's i have all the parts in stock on my site.
 
you should get near 50 ohms between the legs and hundreds of thousands of ohms between the body and either leg.

This is only valid for 2SD869/2SD870

the 2SC1106 vreg should be hundreds of thousands of ohms everywhere.
 
the fuses should test AC volts. you only use one meter lead (red) on either end of the fuse (doesn't matter which end as long as the fuse is good) and the black lead on the AC neutral/GND. if you need HOT's i have all the parts in stock on my site.

AC check gave 0 with a fluctuation on 200 volt. Thus i thought DC... But if i put AC on 750 i get 165 and 375 on each fuse. 375, that doesn't sound possible.
 
Last edited:
you should get near 50 ohms between the legs and hundreds of thousands of ohms between the body and either leg.

This is only valid for 2SD869/2SD870

the 2SC1106 vreg should be hundreds of thousands of ohms everywhere.
I seem to flip flop a lot on those HOTs. Then they are both fine . 50 ohms between the legs and a 200k check on the leg to body.

Vreg though, I'm getting in the million on one leg. nothing on the other and nothing in between. Could you confirm that this is abnormal? Thanks again.
 
Turn up it is normal. Pulled out another G07, compared all readings. Stopped fusing about HOT and VREG to focus on retracing all component and found the issue ; bent components from the dozens of times this chassis had been pulled in and out trying to figure out the issue.
-One cap leg was touching a resistor leg.
-The metal box cover that goes over several of the cap was bent sideway, touching the metal of several pots.
Now the chassis boot at last!
However it is just as slow to warm up as it did pre-cap. Since all the components beside the big grey cap can be ruled out. Can the 200v 600uf cap be responsible for a slow start?
Also turning the horizontal coil does nothing, will need to replace it.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0102.jpg
    IMG_0102.jpg
    106.1 KB · Views: 10
Turn up it is normal. Pulled out another G07, compared all readings. Stopped fusing about HOT and VREG to focus on retracing all component and found the issue ; bent components from the dozens of times this chassis had been pulled in and out trying to figure out the issue.
-One cap leg was touching a resistor leg.
-The metal box cover that goes over several of the cap was bent sideway, touching the metal of several pots.
Now the chassis boot at last!
However it is just as slow to warm up as it did pre-cap. Since all the components beside the big grey cap can be ruled out. Can the 200v 600uf cap be responsible for a slow start?
Also turning the horizontal coil does nothing, will need to replace it.

if you need a new width coil i have hundreds of them in stock. most go7 i have seen were never quick to come on but that is relative based on each person perception. how long from the time you turn it on to getting an image?
width coil link: https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.com/store/monitors/c30380a/
width cap kit link: https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.com/store/monitors/monitor-cap-kits/monitor-width-cap-kit/
 
Last edited:
the slow start is normally the tube.

i had a G07 chassis/tube combo that would take 5-7 minutes to warm up.
rejuved the tube and it helped about 10%.
put the chassis on another tube and it came up within 10-30 seconds like normal.

i have rejuved other tubes like yours and they came up quicker 20-50 seconds.

it will be hit or miss on your tube, they are old and just worn out.

you can have it tested and rejuved if needed.

if it is still slow to warm up after testing and possible re-juve, then your tube is what it is and you will have to live with it or swap it.

as for the width coil.

you will have to turn it between 3-15 times before you see any movement.
they have a wide tolerance from when it will affect the screen.

some chassis width coils works better than others.
only adjusting it and watching the screen will you know when the coil is working or not.

also sometimes they will only affect the screen from 1/2" up to 1" on either side.

if the coil was bad you would not have any width on your screen at all, it would be either in Horizontal collapse or nothing at all.

if you still cannot adjust your width cotl to the desired size, you will have to change the width cap.

if you decide to change the width cap, i have a full line of them in stock.

Peace
Buffett
 
This one can be considered solved! The coil did need a lot of turns but also to be warm up beforehand. Cold turns were doing nothing. I,ll look into acquiring a rejuvation machine.
Thank you all for your helps!
Now onward to many more chassis...
 

Attachments

  • RoadblasterFinal.jpg
    RoadblasterFinal.jpg
    110.4 KB · Views: 10
Back
Top Bottom