G07 - nees to move screen down 2 inches

Smart Bomb

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This g07, i need to move the screen down 2"...the jumpers did not fix this..nor did adjusting any of the pots...do i have to readjust the tube neck coil?...loosen it up and aim it down?
 

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If the v-line, and v-size pot didn't fix it, you probably have the sync hooked up wrong.

Has this chassis been tested and working in any other game? Has it been rebuilt? (With hq parts , not br parts)
 
If the v-line, and v-size pot didn't fix it, you probably have the sync hooked up wrong.

Has this chassis been tested and working in any other game? Has it been rebuilt? (With hq parts , not br parts)

Ya know..im not sure of the history of the chassis...i want to think its the chassis and tube that was in the game when i got it....and the game was t working when i got it and it sat for about a year or two...i may have removed the chassis to put in another game maybe?...i really cant remember...i swap so many tubs and chassis around its ridiculious......and i dont think its been recapped either...i put the sharpie marker on top of the caps when i replace them.
 

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Looks like it has NOT been recapped. I would suggest recapping now.

Also, is it possible someone put a 13" (FBO) chassis on a 19" model?
 
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The b+ pot is present (which the fbo doesn't have). I've personally never seen it turned into that position while putting out 120 vdc. Hence my request for a b+ reading.

And yeah, that pos needs a rebuild.
 
Looks like that the sync is hooked to the positive horizontal input and the negative vertical input. Try connection the syncs to both negative sync inputs (3 pin molex). Or both positive sync inputs (6 pin molex).

Can't believe nobody saw this or are my eyes playing tricks on me again.

Ed
 
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This has been partially resolved i guess u can say....in the pics im attaching to this post...that connector was connected together originally...i disconnected it as u can see in the pic and reinstalled the molex connectors back to the chassis, turned the game on and the image is nice and uniform...in the original pics it looked like the top had some kind of collapse going on...well that collapse is gone with that connector disconnected....but the image still needs to drop, though not as much now. The jumpers still do not give me enough movement down...if i shift the entire image down about an inch it would be perfect. Should i tilt the tube yoke a little maybe?
 

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I have to sayI haven't looked up the sync requirements for PP.


Have you adjusted the 2 middle chassis pots again? Both clockwise.
 
I have to sayI haven't looked up the sync requirements for PP.


Have you adjusted the 2 middle chassis pots again? Both clockwise.

What u see in the latest pics i posted is the absolute best i could get out of my adjustment of pots and jumpers.
 
that jumper is for the other monitors that the game used. Some of them take in the SYNC on the same connector as the colors.
 
What u see in the latest pics i posted is the absolute best i could get out of my adjustment of pots and jumpers.

Yeah I saw it, and responded accordingly. You only mentioned using the jumpers, that is why I mentioned the 2 center pots.

I hope it's a sync issue (something easy), and you figure it out.

G07's (at least the last 50 I've fixed), do well to have a full overhaul. New pots, HQ caps, not cheap ones, flyback, filter cap, thorough reflow.
 
Here is my other pole position with a 4900 monitor/chassis and the screen is perfect.

This is a negative sync hook up, correct?
 

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FWIW, I have a g07-cbo that needs the adapter connections reflowed big time. It'll go out of synch if too much stress is put on that connection and the display does something similair to yours (it isn't centered correctly). Fiddling it brings it back to perfection. I have a cap kit from security0001 ready to go, just need to find the time.
 
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