G07 help - Too Bright **Fixed**

Tombo

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I have searched the forum and I have found the same issue in an earlier post, however, the suggested fixes didnt work for me.

Monitor is too bright with white lines.

The screen adjustment seems to make a slight difference but ultimately fades back to too bright

What I have done:

1. Capped the chassis
2. Checked for cracks and cold solder joints (fixed a couple)
3. swapped x303
4. B+ is 120 / 145
5. swapped neckboard with screen and focus pots
6. swapped tube

One of the fixes for this in a previous post was a crack at pin 6 on the FB. The connection is solid, however, the pad is slightly lifted. Measuring with my meter, I do have continuity.

Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Tom

IMG00593.jpg
 
I have searched the forum and I have found the same issue in an earlier post, however, the suggested fixes didnt work for me.

Monitor is too bright with white lines.

The screen adjustment seems to make a slight difference but ultimately fades back to too bright

What I have done:

1. Capped the chassis
2. Checked for cracks and cold solder joints (fixed a couple)
3. swapped x303
4. B+ is 120 / 145
5. swapped neckboard with screen and focus pots
6. swapped tube

One of the fixes for this in a previous post was a crack at pin 6 on the FB. The connection is solid, however, the pad is slightly lifted. Measuring with my meter, I do have continuity.

Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Tom

IMG00593.jpg

did you replace the flyback? that could be the problem
 
Problem solved.

Pin 6 and pin 7 were lifted just enough to almost always not make contact. This was really noticeable after I cleaned up all of the crusty brown crap away from all of the pads. I scraped away some green mask and made a solder bridge to the rest of the pad.

Now that the game is working 100%, time to start the cosmetics!

Tom

IMG00594.jpg
 
Last edited:
Identical problem on mine

I had the exact same problem, it turns out there was a cracked copper run right next to pin 6. I wasn't getting conductivity from one end of the copper run to the other, that was how I finally found the problem. Built a bridge with a piece of wire and I'm up and running now!
 
Well, since this has been bumped...

I fixed one recently with almost the same issue in the same way. I also removed the flyback and saw a crack on the top side that wasn't showing underneath, but apparently was flexing the pad. Once the jumper was done, it was fine...
 
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