G07 help needed. Vertical collapse then No picture after recap.

Before putting the old flyback back in check for 12 volts dc on the cathode end of D508. If you have 12 volts dc the flyback is good. If not check R526 (1K ohm). If open replace and check. If it is open you could have a bad focus/screen block.

If you have 12 volts look at X303 and X304.

Ed
 
Hey Ed. Thanks for your assistance. I checked D508 and I am getting almost exactly 12 volts. I will test x303 and x304 next.
 
Ok, I took out and tested x303 and x304. Both tested good. I checked them with a component tester and a multimeter. I also checked ohms on the Screen knob and it's not open. I also tested the tube with a B&K 470 and I had no leakage on G1 and heater (first two pics) and good emissions (3rd pic). The last pic is a photo of the neck glow with chassis installed.

This monitor is driving me nuts. I am completely clueless as to what else it could be. Any other suggestions?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20180219_133840.jpg
    IMG_20180219_133840.jpg
    520 KB · Views: 8
  • IMG_20180219_133848.jpg
    IMG_20180219_133848.jpg
    522.5 KB · Views: 7
  • IMG_20180219_133907.jpg
    IMG_20180219_133907.jpg
    521.3 KB · Views: 6
  • IMG_20180220_141934.jpg
    IMG_20180220_141934.jpg
    545.3 KB · Views: 10
Last edited:
Yeah, change the flyback.

After that look for cracks, check for continuity all over the place.
 
Yeah, change the flyback.

After that look for cracks, check for continuity all over the place.

I will probably do that soon. Gonna run a few more continuity/voltage tests first.

Speaking of which, does anyone know what the screen adjustment voltage is suppose to be at the neck board? (Yellow wire) I'm getting 180-190+ volts depending on the knob position
 
I will probably do that soon. Gonna run a few more continuity/voltage tests first.

Speaking of which, does anyone know what the screen adjustment voltage is suppose to be at the neck board? (Yellow wire) I'm getting 180-190+ volts depending on the knob position

The flyback is the ONLY thing that should concern you right now.
 
What were the readings in ohms on the focus block? Also make sure it is not in the circuit when taking these readings.

Ed

On the focus adjustment, I'm getting 31 M Ohms, up to about halfway where I get 40 M Ohms. It drops off ater that though because my meter only goes up to 40 M Ohms.

On the screen adjustment, I'm getting 2.2 M Ohms to 9.5 M Ohms.

I do not get any continuity with any other combinations of pins.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20180221_122525.jpg
    IMG_20180221_122525.jpg
    619.1 KB · Views: 7
  • IMG_20180221_122904.jpg
    IMG_20180221_122904.jpg
    646.6 KB · Views: 7
  • IMG_20180221_122915.jpg
    IMG_20180221_122915.jpg
    645.4 KB · Views: 6
  • IMG_20180221_124057.jpg
    IMG_20180221_124057.jpg
    635.6 KB · Views: 5
Last edited:
I do, but my screen originally went blank with the old one installed. I can throw it back in real quick and check it in case it wasn't the original cause of my problems.

Originally, the only thing I changed was caps. It worked for about 5 mins. and then started having screen issues and then the picture went completely blank. It was after this that I started replacing parts out of necessity.
 
Last edited:
Got it. The flyback could be bad then.

If it were me, I would get another flyback, and in the meantime get your meter out and test for continuity everywhere. I would check for continuity throughout the neck board as well, reflow the neck board, and make sure the white wire didn't break off inside the socket.
 
Got it. The flyback could be bad then.

If it were me, I would get another flyback, and in the meantime get your meter out and test for continuity everywhere. I would check for continuity throughout the neck board as well, reflow the neck board, and make sure the white wire didn't break off inside the socket.

Ordered another flyback from a different site just in case the previous site had a bad batch. I will double check the connector and traces on the neck board tomorrow and see if I can find anything.

Thanks.
 
Checked continuity on all of the socket pins on the tube with the connector halfway pulled out. I have continuity on all pins from the solder side of the neckboard to the tube pins. I further checked continuity on the G1 and G2 pins to ends of the wires with them out of circuit and I also have continuity there. I'm thinking provided the flyback is in good shape, I should have any voltage issues there.

When the flyback I ordered gets here, I guess I'll see it's the issue.
 
No help I can offer, but I read through all of this and I'm subscribing.....Hope you get this all fixed up soon.
 
No help I can offer, but I read through all of this and I'm subscribing.....Hope you get this all fixed up soon.


Yeah, I hope so too. I've spent several hours trying to figure this out. Did countless testing on various components, looked over the board several times and haven't found anything bad. The more testing I'm doing, the more I'm leaning toward the flyback not supplying enough voltage. I've got another new one coming in on Monday so I'll know then for sure. If that doesn't do it, I'm gonna remove and test all of my new capacitors I put in to make sure they are all in spec. If all else fails, my friend has a working G07 that he said he'd let me borrow the chassis from just to make sure my tube is working good so I can hopefully rule that out at least.

From what I've seen, G07's are normally pretty easy to diagnose. Mine appears to be the exception.
 
Well today, I went to get pics of the board for someone so I soldered the screen block back in place, cleaned up some solder flux that I left on the neck board and plugged everything back in and this time I got a picture!

I have no clue what I did. It was either some loose connection somewhere, something loose on the screen block connections, or there was something conductive in the solder flux. The solder flux was really clean though so I don't think that was it.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20180225_173634.jpg
    IMG_20180225_173634.jpg
    552 KB · Views: 17
Last edited:
Thanks everyone for the assistance. Day 2 and it's still going strong. With as many new parts as I put in it, it should be good for a long time.
 
Back
Top Bottom