G07 flyback will not adjust dark only light?

tparis

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The G07 in my Tron looked tired.

I did a capkit, voltage regulator and the flyback.

After some adjustments the monitor looks 100X better.

However the flyback is turned all the way down to get a good picture but with it turned all the way down I can't get the image to go black.

If I turn it up the bright works as expected.

Should the flyback always go black?
 

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make sure to test and set the B+ on it before any adjustments.

Electrohome GO-7 - (120vdc) check with black meter lead on chassis ground and red lead on the white wire closest to the tube of the ceramic resistor that is on the left side of the chassis.
 
is your sub brightness all the way up?

do you have any idea on how a G07 works or what adjustments it has?

there is no brightness or sub brightness pot on a G07 chassis.

they only have the screen control on the screen/focus tower.

----

to the op, yes you need to check and adjust your B+.

the screen should go black or almost black depending on game or TPG used.

Peace
Buffett
 
make sure to test and set the B+ on it before any adjustments.

Electrohome GO-7 - (120vdc) check with black meter lead on chassis ground and red lead on the white wire closest to the tube of the ceramic resistor that is on the left side of the chassis.


Thanks Peter, I need to cheek the B+.

Also not sure where a secondary brightness is on the G07.
 
do you have any idea on how a G07 works or what adjustments it has?

there is no brightness or sub brightness pot on a G07 chassis.

they only have the screen control on the screen/focus tower.

----

to the op, yes you need to check and adjust your B+.

the screen should go black or almost black depending on game or TPG used.

Peace
Buffett

lol I don't have a g07 in all my games sorry just trying to help :p
 
Thanks Peter, I need to cheek the B+.



Also not sure where a secondary brightness is on the G07.



As Buffett stated there is not a secondary brightness on a G07. Just the Screen Control on the flyback.
 
do you have any idea on how a G07 works or what adjustments it has?

there is no brightness or sub brightness pot on a G07 chassis.

they only have the screen control on the screen/focus tower.

----

to the op, yes you need to check and adjust your B+.

the screen should go black or almost black depending on game or TPG used.

Peace
Buffett




Ok B+ was a little low at 117.

I barley touched it and it moved between 117 & 127.


It was a pain but I finally got it to stay at 121.8 and the screen looks fantastic and little bit more in focus.

The B+ pot is almost turned all the way up. Not sure if this is normal.

Regardless of the B+ adjustments the flyback brightness is still all the way down and cant go any lower.

Picture looks great but this isn't normal.

thoughts?
 

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take a pic of the wiring on the focus tower, all 4 posts.

try to include where the 4 wires go in the pic.

Peace
Buffett
 
take a pic of the wiring on the focus tower, all 4 posts.

try to include where the 4 wires go in the pic.

Peace
Buffett

Appreciate the help.

Without pulling out the chassis here is the views I got.
 

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no prob.

thanks for the pics.

everything looks ok on the focus tower.

i know if that is connected wrong you will have odd problems.

chased an issue on a repair many years ago because the previous owner hooked them up wrong when he replaced the fly and i did not catch it right away.

do you get raster lines on screen when you turn up the screen pot?

Peace
Buffett
 
Check the connections on the foil of electrolytic capacitor C107 on the neckboard. The original capacitor always leaked and would be found with a lead broken off. If this leakage isn't cleaned up, it can cause problems. Sometimes people don't notice one of the solder pads for that capacitor has broken away from the board. Remember too that the polarity marking on the board for that capacitor is only shown on the parts side of the board. The negative lead goes in the hole with the dark circle next to it. There are no polarity markings on the foil side of the neckboard.

You might have to get out your ohm meter to check the foil continuity to both leads of C107. I have seen this happen many times.
 
no prob.

thanks for the pics.

everything looks ok on the focus tower.

i know if that is connected wrong you will have odd problems.

chased an issue on a repair many years ago because the previous owner hooked them up wrong when he replaced the fly and i did not catch it right away.

do you get raster lines on screen when you turn up the screen pot?

Peace
Buffett



Yes I get raster lines when I crank the flyback. Seems to behave like my other G07 monitor Flybacks.

Is it possible this flyback is faulty?

I checked C107 on the neckboard. It's looking good - I just did the cap kit.

Maybe I resolder the flyback just for good measure? Maybe one of the pins isnt connecting properly?

Also reflow the neckboard and other darker solder points?

The picture does look pretty damn good it's just I cant super fine tune the flyback cause its down all the way already.


Thanks!
 
When C107 goes bad originally, it causes the picture to be too bright and you have to turn the screen control all the way down. So it has to be something on the neckboard. Maybe you have a defective C107?
 
My buddy gave me 3 G07 cap kits and out of the 3 kits 2 caps were bad and leaked and a few others the values were way off so I called the vender and he said he was going to change them in newer kits. Never had this happen before so I borrowed a few caps from another brand kit and replaced the bad caps and worked ever since on the 3 different monitors.

I will check c107 again and go from there.

Thank you!
 
Wanted to update this post with the solution.

It was indeed c107 cap on the neckboard. I believe this was due to my poor solder work.

Visually my solder beads look good but to the touch the cap every so slightly rocked back and forth. Not sure how I missed this.

I re-soldered the c107 cap and when I fired the game up I have full control of the flyback and the image is great.

really appreciate all the help!!

thank you
 
I have been fooled several times over the years by poor connections at that capacitor. This is why I now always swab the foil area where that capacitor goes with 99% isopropyl alcohol for a good, clean connection.
 
I have been fooled several times over the years by poor connections at that capacitor. This is why I now always swab the foil area where that capacitor goes with 99% isopropyl alcohol for a good, clean connection.



I take back the solved. Indeed the monitor came back up right away and when I turned on/off several times all was good. Left it on a few hours and powered down and waited a few minutes powered back up still all good.

Today I fired the game up but this time its a blank screen, no neck glow and game plays blind. All fuses good, checked c107 again and any spots for cold solder, looking good at visual inspection. Possible bad c107 cap?
 
I take back the solved. Indeed the monitor came back up right away and when I turned on/off several times all was good. Left it on a few hours and powered down and waited a few minutes powered back up still all good.

Today I fired the game up but this time its a blank screen, no neck glow and game plays blind. All fuses good, checked c107 again and any spots for cold solder, looking good at visual inspection. Possible bad c107 cap?

Generally you wouldn't think a bad C107 is causing the problem you are describing.

It's time to get the b+ measurement again and report back.
 
Generally you wouldn't think a bad C107 is causing the problem you are describing.

It's time to get the b+ measurement again and report back.

When I did the capkit, flyback ect.... I did adjust the B+ to 120 so something is failing.

B+ stuck at 155 no matter how I adjust. The HOT measures at .455
 
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