G07 doing the hula, at a dead end on flowchart

Does the b+ pot make any change? I'm curious if you can adjust it down to 90vdc, or if you see it change in different positions.
 
Yes, I just adjusted it after taking the photos...I was able to adjust it to 120V DC (it's about 90% of the way turned right now), so that's good, but the input voltage is still around 160-165V.
 
Do you mean the other side of the resistor is 160? Seems high. I see it typically between 135-147vdc.
 
If you are at 120vdc on the b+ is your monitor basically perfect looking now? If that were the case, you may never even measure the other side of the resistor? :)

I"m not saying it's a good thing, but If the monitor looks fine, I would let it be, and just pay attention to it.
 
Unfortunately, the "shimmy" is still there, as well as what I can only describe as "half bullseye" ghosting on the screen (kind of like those old drawings of a magnetic field) - it's not colored any differently than the part of the image on the screen or anything rainbow in appearance. I've checked to make sure the monitor chassis is grounded, and I've gone as far as to tie logic ground to earth ground on the switching power supply for the game to see if that would change anything, but that didn't help.
 
IMO, Next move needs to be testing this chassis on a different game, and/or testing a different chassis in this game.
 
Have you measured the incoming AC voltage from the wall into your cab and eventually the monitor plug.

Maybe your AC is like 130vac or something on the high side.
 
Unfortunately, the "shimmy" is still there, as well as what I can only describe as "half bullseye" ghosting on the screen (kind of like those old drawings of a magnetic field) - it's not colored any differently than the part of the image on the screen or anything rainbow in appearance. I've checked to make sure the monitor chassis is grounded, and I've gone as far as to tie logic ground to earth ground on the switching power supply for the game to see if that would change anything, but that didn't help.
Is there a way you can post a video of exactly what is happening sometimes when a repair Tech looks at the problem it can give them some additional insight
 
Is there a way you can post a video of exactly what is happening sometimes when a repair Tech looks at the problem it can give them some additional insight

I've found this to be incredibly difficult to capture with my phone camera when it comes to CRT. Any tips to help get clear videos of a CRT are appreciated.
 
Unfortunately this repair will be on hold now. I bought a new width coil since the old was broken. The new coil would not turn. I watched one of zenomorp's repair videos and he showed the fix for this, since the replacements are not threaded in the top part of the bobbin, so you cannot adjust them in an upwards direction. Following his directions, I attempted to thread the top part using the ferrite, grease to lubricate it, and a width coil tool. The ferrite got stuck at one point and could not be advanced nor unscrewed, so I had to resort to a metal Allen key and broke it. @security0001, why aren't they manufactured with threads? I saved the old coil and am wondering if the old ferrite core (which unscrewed easily) can be used in the new coil or if I'm just going to have to buy another complete assembly.
that area doesn't change the inductance range so its not needed so there is no reason for threads and the factory won't do that for some stupid reason either. if you tapped it with an M6x1 tap you could add threads but if you put a meter on it you will see it doesn't change and the range only has about 75uH - 210uH range (technically twice if you screw it from top to bottom).
 
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