g07 dies 2 hours after cap kit...

JoeB1355

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FINALLY FIXED!! -- read for the saga and solution

So why did I do a cap kit.... It was working ok but I had the game all apart so I though I should do it....

Everything looked great -- 2 hours later its dead.... its was good for 10 years before... now no static sound... no blown fuses...

transistors don't appear to be blown...

I used the from chart I got 167 volts on the big resistor(B+ spot wich was adjusted to 120 dead on before I let it sit for 2 hours). I check over and over the board for cracks thought I found 1 so I reflowed it nothing...

When I did the cap kit I resoldered the flyback and input pins sucked off the old solder first...

All I see now is the IC. Is that really how it goes just poof?

I don't see and burns or cracks in the flyback no smell of smoke or burn t parts...

I took off X701 like the flowchart said no joy.... same 167 volts on the case of X01

So where do I get a new IC? or anything else to check?
 
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Yes. I don't see any cracks or goo and no smell and there was no smoke. I guess it could die that way. The flowchart wasn't pointing to a fly though. No fuses blew.

Last time I had a fly blow smoke poured out and it was cracked and the fuse blew
 
Yes. I don't see any cracks or goo and no smell and there was no smoke. I guess it could die that way. The flowchart wasn't pointing to a fly though. No fuses blew.

Last time I had a fly blow smoke poured out and it was cracked and the fuse blew


I've seen blown flybacks with no goo or fuses blown(I think). Guys say all of the time that new caps + old fly = blown fly.

Did you put a screwdriver on the 2 posts of the filter cap to see if you get a mini explosion?
edit: though usually you'd see the smaller fuse blown.
 
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So I never replace the fly and have a bunch that work fine. So why do you think its the fly? no fuse is blown? The fly is the most expensive part so why would it always be replaced. I've only ever had 1 go bad.

So other than some folks think its a good idea does my description sound like it could be that? seems like its more apt to be the IC?

Maybe I'll get both but I hate just replacing expensive parts for nothing. I'm at the end of the chart that says inspect for cracks or replace the ic.

Anything else to check before I order parts?
 
I'll just order both I have enough g07's that I'll end up needing them I'm sure sometime. Sometime is probably now! ;>
 
Where the best place to get them or are they all the same I got one fro Bob before but I couldn't screw it back on the mount to the metal frame it was slightly different.
 
Where the best place to get them or are they all the same I got one fro Bob before but I couldn't screw it back on the mount to the metal frame it was slightly different.

the ones he 's had lately have been a really good fit. I've been able to screw them back to the frame.

was there a charge built up in the filter cap? did you put a screwdriver on the + and - leads to see?
 
Yes. I don't see any cracks or goo and no smell and there was no smoke. I guess it could die that way. The flowchart wasn't pointing to a fly though. No fuses blew.

Last time I had a fly blow smoke poured out and it was cracked and the fuse blew

Your biggest problem here is that you're relying on a flowchart that's 25 years outdated and pretty much useless.
 
Your biggest problem here is that you're relying on a flowchart that's 25 years outdated and pretty much useless.

So whats that supposed to mean? Is there a new flowchart? The monitor is 30 years old.

I did try a screw driver on c904 no spark -- but that was this morning so not sure if it would have held a charge from last night.
 
Don't sweat Chris, he's pretty lofty on his plateau.

What he means is you can't live and die by the flowcharts. They reference only bits and pieces of what could be wrong with the chassis.

Almost every reputable chassis repair tech will tell you that it's a good idea to replace the fly at the same time you recap a G07. There's a very good chance that it'll fail shortly after the kit, which yours has done.

Replace the fly and report back with results.
 
Ordering a few fly's today. I'll report back how it goes.

Your right the flow chart isn't the end all be all I just wasn't getting the "outdated and pretty much useless" Kinda like that post that had no helpful info just a "useless" comment...

Anyways I'm gonna swap the fly and perhaps get a spare ic as well just in case. I've probably been lucky thus far it seems with flybacks.
 
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this was really helpful. explained a recent scenario on a friend's monitor failing after a cap kit.
thank you.
 
As has been stated, many times, and in more threads than this one - original G07 flybacks should be replaced. I won't go into details why this should be, there are enough threads about that, already.

However; I don't necessarily think that this is what happened, here.

Check the usual culprits: the VR. R908 (your kit came with one though, right?). X901/X902.
 
I did check 901 I think it was ok (I don't think B-C and B-E measured exactly the same which I thought was weird .4xx compared to .6XX on diode but seemed acceptable). Its was where I thought a crack might have been so I pulled it tested resoldered and added a jumper to the suspect area. That didn't help though. I ordered a flyback so when it comes I'll troubleshoot more
 
Pics of this troublesome chassis may prove helpful. Top and bottom

Here are a few pic's.

http://s1127.photobucket.com/albums/l628/JoeB1355/G07/

Best pics linked below
DSCF1336.jpg

DSCF1338.jpg

DSCF1340.jpg



I cleaned most the original yucky yellow flux off and you can see I still have X701 out. There was also a lot of cruddy old solder from someone who capped this 10+ years ago before I had it. They damaged a couple pads as well but they look ok when I resoldered them.

I may try to swap a flyback off another board just to see before the new one comes.
 
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I have another chassis that works. I compared reading for the HOT and VR on diode with my meter and both measured the same good chassis vs the bad one
 
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