modessitt
Volunteer: Encyclopedia Submission Moderator
Save money on parts and just ship it to someone else to fix it for you?
G07 CBO - Vert Deflection
- Thread starter eh97ac
- Start date
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eh97ac
Member
Parts are cheap, trying to learn.
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eh97ac
Member
Anybody?
Dokert
Well-known member
Look for hairline cracks or broken traces
OP
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eh97ac
Member
So I spent the better part of 2 hours testing continuity of every trace, looking at the board in different types of light and reflowing anything that wasn't perfect.
Board#1 is still producing 165v+ on each side of R1.
Board#2 still has no voltage at R1 but the HOT's and fusses are good on the DMM.
Board#1 is still producing 165v+ on each side of R1.
Board#2 still has no voltage at R1 but the HOT's and fusses are good on the DMM.
OP
OP
eh97ac
Member
Update for board#1
I have 169V at X01
I replaced X501, IC501
I swapped T501
No change
I have 169V at X01
I replaced X501, IC501
I swapped T501
No change
Homepin
Member
You will have to fix it now as you have probably introduced several new faults and I doubt a repair shop would want it as a job........I certainly wouldn't....
Homepin
Member
You will have to fix it now as you have probably introduced several new faults and I doubt a repair shop would want it as a job........I certainly wouldn't....
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eh97ac
Member
You bring NOTHING to this thread!
I feel your pain man, I have two damn G07's doing the same thing and I have pretty much checked everything you did and spent numerous hours troubleshooting! UGH!! I'm going over a fellow Klovers to try to diagnose these things! I thought G07's were suppose to be the easiest to fix.
Dokert
Well-known member
I know I checked and replaced those but that might work for eh97ac....
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eh97ac
Member
Dokert
Well-known member
OP
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eh97ac
Member
![IMG_0052[1].jpg](https://sf.arcade-museum.com/data/attachments/9/9688-5f665ee31a1a410a6db3b0b2749a76ca.jpg)
![IMG_0051[1].jpg](https://sf.arcade-museum.com/data/attachments/9/9709-ae47810ac732c8464300b3877162a74a.jpg)
![IMG_0050[1].jpg](https://sf.arcade-museum.com/data/attachments/9/9726-4a73919bc5afc5074b3731d41d339124.jpg)
![IMG_0049[1].jpg](https://sf.arcade-museum.com/data/attachments/9/9750-be135166b8143886b60ad7107dbea7f2.jpg)
![IMG_0047[1].jpg](https://sf.arcade-museum.com/data/attachments/9/9768-55727907e6754c37f54908431cc0cec6.jpg)
Looks like FR401 was changed to a regular resistor, is that ok to do?
Dokert
Well-known member
FR401 is most likely open. FR401 needs to be replaced with the correct resistor.
You need to meter all of your flyback leads. From the flyback pin to the farthest point away on it's own trace. The meter should zero (ohms) almost immediately, and I will bet that it does not in your case. The flyback is almost guaranteed to have cold solder joints from what I have seen.
You may also have a couple of cracks, but I can't tell for sure from the pics.
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eh97ac
Member
When testing the pair of 6 & 1, the DMM does not zero out immediately like the rest.
I will fix it up and report back
I will fix it up and report back
Dokert
Well-known member
When replacing a flyback, DON'T be stingy with the solder. Make sure that the hole is COMPLETELY filled in with solder.
