G05 - HV Transformer wire to cup - chewed upon - fixable?

lilypad19

Well-known member

Donor 7 years: 2019-2025
Joined
Nov 18, 2019
Messages
2,031
Reaction score
3,217
Location
Billerica, Massachusetts
Under normal circumstances - I'd just replace the HV transformer.
But these aren't normal circumstances since this one is not available as a replacement.

I haven't powered it up - but I'm told it was working.
Is there a 'goo' or some way to wrap this and make it 'better'?


1759431309180.jpeg
 
That's just the wire on the outside of the cage, right? Not the inside part that is attached to the flyback.

You can replace just that wire. Build a new one. You could replace just the wire (and save the original cup), or replace the wire and cup. The cup is attached to the wire on 802's with a single screw in the anode cap, that bites into the wire. You'll see what I mean if you disassemble it.

Or you could cut the wire and cap off of an old dead 6100 flyback, and you'd just have to reattach the cup on the boot end. I've done it before.

This is why I save old dead flybacks. The parts are useful for cases like this.
 
Yeah, in that case you can just replace that wire. If you don't have any dead flybacks, maybe try to find some soft HV wire of a similar gauge. It will have to be the same thickness, if you want to keep the old cup, as it matters in that case. But finding a dead flyback and salvaging the cup and wire would be easier.

The white ferrule on the wall of the cage unscrews, and you can take that whole assembly apart, and repair it. You'd just have to remove the metal cup from the diode end of the wire, and solder it on to a new wire (with the boot and spring, etc).

If you want me to do it for you, I can. I've done them before, and have the parts.
 
hmm.. Let me pull it apart.. I may be able to do something with it.. Thanks for releasing my mental block.. I was getting hung up on the wire and completely forget about the HV diode ;)
 
I've replaced/tacked on a new cup and anode prongs as well(shortened the anode wire to remove bad part). That's easy.

They make HV heatshrink but it's expensive. Highest I've found was 5kv rating. WG used this in 2 layers when adding the divider block to the focus line on the K7635 Medium resolution FBs. They doubled up the heat shrink on the splice (used 6" lengths) because the focus voltage is typically in the 5-10kv range.

Using their logic, you could use 4x overlap.
 
You could theoretically try to repair the wire, covering the chewed parts with RTV silicone. And/or try to find HV shrink tubing (which I think I searched for once, and maybe it was really expensive? I have a vague memory.) But it would be a janky repair, and you'd have to rely on it not breaking or cracking over time, which would be unlikely given how flexible that wire is. That one is chewed up pretty bad.

It really would be best (and easiest) to just replace the whole wire, with or without the cup. Old Amplifone HV's use soft wire like that, but it's thicker than that 802. And it matters in this case because the wire has to go through the plastic ferrule. So the new wire needs to be the same or smaller.

If you use a wire+cup from a 6100 or raster flyback, it will be slightly smaller than that hole. (I'm not aware of anything else that uses that same exact wire as on the 802's.) However a layer of regular shrink tubing where the wire passes through the ferrule would take care of that.
 
I was originally thinking in this direction - so good to know it exists.. had I pulled the cover off.. I would have remembered the diode.. I got fixated on the chewed up part. I'm pretty sure I have a dead one someplace.
 
I don't have a ton of dead flybacks.. But I am going to start 'a box' for them.. Old TV's I was cutting the HV wires off the tubes and keep them for a bit..
 
Back
Top Bottom