G05-805 High Voltage no Picture

DrEvil

New member
Joined
Nov 23, 2007
Messages
18
Reaction score
0
Location
New Hampshire
First time working on an XY monitor and I just finished the cap kit and cleaned under the anode 9removed some of the grease.

I am getting no picture, but plenty of neck glow. The Asteroids board that is in the cab plays blind (I can do pretty good blind too... but not for too long)

Any idea where I can start so I can breathe some life into this monitor?

Thanks!
 
neck glow is taped right off your power brick and has nothing to do with the high voltage unit if thats what you may be suspecting..

are you getting and startup crackle / or discharge snap from the hv anode?
 
I really gotta put this in notepad to copy and paste...

Check R100 and R101 as Dokert suggested (if either one is bad/open they can both be jumped with wire, yes its ok manufacturer did it later in production).

Check all fuses on the deflection board (there are several)

Resolder all pins of all molex plugs (ALL pins!)

Have fun playing Asteroids :)

Some pics of mine before repair:
http://www.junknet.net/arcade/?g2_itemId=3289&g2_page=2
 
Is the LED on on the deflection board?

According to the manual:

4. Spot Killer Indicator
A spot killer circuit is used to blank the CRT under a no signal condition. When the spod killer is active, the CRT will be extinguished and LED D504 will light indicating spot killer operation.

I'm having the same problem with my game. It plays blind even with a strong neck glow. My LED is on and I'm not quite sure what is causing it.
 
Just because a vector game "plays blind"......doesn't mean the motherboard is "good".

Edward
 
Yea I mean my assumption is that there is a problem with the signal being sent to my monitor.

Still it's curious that this all began happening to me after the bridge rectifier on my monitor had to be replaced and I changed the transistors and caps. I'm not going to rule out something wrong on the monitor.

Is there a way to test for a video signal with a multimeter? Would it be AC or DC voltage? Just wondering. I mean the blanking circuit shouldn't initiate unless there is no signal at all coming right?
 
similar problems with 19v2000 (same as 802)

figured I'd chime in, maybe kill 2 birds with 1 stone. Just started working on this today, have working asteroids deluxe to test with.
Pulled the deflection board & replaced burnt fuses at F100, F101 & F700. No continuity at R101, cut ceramic resistor & replaced with solid copper wire, now have continuity at R101. R100 was already replaced with tinned copper wire, continuity present. P500, P600, P700 & P700 molex headers have previously had solder re-flowed, not the neatest job, but looks solid to me. Bottom of board shows evidence of re-soldering at DB100.
Reinstalled board & plugged into working cabinet. When I powered up the cabinet I saw a quick green flash at the top corner of th back of the CRT & the fuses at F100 & F101 blew.
The other fuses (including the replaced fuse at F700) did not blow. The 3 largest capacitors look to be original from the look of the soldered side of board.
Any ideas what this could be a symptom of?
Thanks
 
Led is on. All work above has been done. I have checked with a known good board, and same result.

Thoughts?
 
Curious, the other board works in test. So, its a board problem. Will start a new post.

Thanks for the help!
 
Back
Top Bottom