G05-802 Works, then Blanks

ArcadeTechGW

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Oy. For once, could I get a game in the GD arcade that just works?

Asteriods, with a 38-G05-802-00 monitor, Electrohome, of course.

Power the game up, coin up, the game works just fine for a few games. Go back to fiddling with Space Invaders, I turn back to Asteroids, and the screen is blank.

I figure I have blown a monitor fuse, so I turn the game off, and go back to fixing Space Invaders. Before I leave for the night, I power Asteroids back up, and the monitor is back up and running.

Plans: Reflow the connector pins asap.

The monitor (when it is up) looks great. There is moderate screen burn, but in game play, the asteroids look right, and better yet, the ship, saucers, and shots are nice and bright, like they should be.

Apart from the immediate plans above, does anyone have any other suggestions (other than the Cap Kit, which I'll put off since I have some other games that are dead and in more dire need of immediate help).

If I have to pull the main board, and don't have a HV probe and discharger, is it safe for me to discharge the monitor with a Bob Roberts Super Screwdriver kit, or should I put a resistor in line with the ground? I don't want to roast my HV diode.
 
I don't think you want to discharge this monitor with a screwdriver. I was told not to. I had problems like you describe and capping and reflowing the header pins fixed it.
 
I saw that while I was searching the forums on this, looking for information I could use. I'll have to see if I can re-flow the pins safely without discharging the monitor - that will be step 1, since it went completely dead so quickly.

I'll know in a few minutes. I just got home from the FTJ at the power plant, and now I get to do what I get paid to have fun to do.
 
Oy. For once, could I get a game in the GD arcade that just works?

Asteriods, with a 38-G05-802-00 monitor, Electrohome, of course.

Power the game up, coin up, the game works just fine for a few games. Go back to fiddling with Space Invaders, I turn back to Asteroids, and the screen is blank.

I figure I have blown a monitor fuse, so I turn the game off, and go back to fixing Space Invaders. Before I leave for the night, I power Asteroids back up, and the monitor is back up and running.

Plans: Reflow the connector pins asap.

The monitor (when it is up) looks great. There is moderate screen burn, but in game play, the asteroids look right, and better yet, the ship, saucers, and shots are nice and bright, like they should be.

Apart from the immediate plans above, does anyone have any other suggestions (other than the Cap Kit, which I'll put off since I have some other games that are dead and in more dire need of immediate help).

If I have to pull the main board, and don't have a HV probe and discharger, is it safe for me to discharge the monitor with a Bob Roberts Super Screwdriver kit, or should I put a resistor in line with the ground? I don't want to roast my HV diode.
You need a 1MΩ inline resistor to discharge this monitor. I have a cable I built with 18ga wire and alligator clips on either end & the resistor soldered in. These work fine with all monitors, and I'd recommend making one.

When the display was dead, was the spotkiller on? Losing X and Y deflection means that you either lost signal from the game & the SK would be lit, or you lost both X and Y deflection transistors (P600/P700 connectors), in which case the LED would not be lit. You may also have a bad connection from the deflection PCB to the neck / HV cage, though this seems less common.
 
Thanks - a 1 Megaohm resistor, eh? What wattage? I can get a half watt a "The Shack", but anything else I'll have to order from Digikey or Mouser.

I was working on Space Invaders at the time, so I powered down Asteroids, and turned it on before I left, only to find the monitor back. I hadn't gotten through the back door lock yet, so I don't know if the spot killer was on or not.

Now the funny part: Apart from cycling power, I didn't do anything. I turned it back on, and the unit has been running fine for 48 hours.

Go figure.

I'll still modify my "discharge" tool to add in the 1 Meg resistor - too bad I'm not at home, I'm pretty sure I have that in my "stock box". As I have said on many occasions, once something fails, it seldom corrects itself.
 
Thanks - a 1 Megaohm resistor, eh? What wattage? I can get a half watt a "The Shack", but anything else I'll have to order from Digikey or Mouser.
I have a 2W resistor I picked up at Fry's.

I was working on Space Invaders at the time, so I powered down Asteroids, and turned it on before I left, only to find the monitor back. I hadn't gotten through the back door lock yet, so I don't know if the spot killer was on or not.

Now the funny part: Apart from cycling power, I didn't do anything. I turned it back on, and the unit has been running fine for 48 hours.

Go figure.

I'll still modify my "discharge" tool to add in the 1 Meg resistor - too bad I'm not at home, I'm pretty sure I have that in my "stock box". As I have said on many occasions, once something fails, it seldom corrects itself.

These problems have a way of coming back. I doubt it's a cap issue. I'd check the headers (as you plan to) and chassis transistors.
 
I'm having the very same issue with my Omega Race. It's intermittent, very annoying! I will be working on reflowing the connector pins and see if that resolves the issue.
 
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