G05-802 Veritcal Collapse after new caps, bridge rect., and new xistors.

mhanlen1

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G05-802 Veritcal Collapse after new caps, bridge rect., and new xistors.

Ok, so last week I had a dead Asteroids Deluxe. Today I did Bob's cap kit with all new transistors. Both filter caps have been replaced as well. All header pins on the monitor have been reflowed. I also replaced DB100 with a new Bridge rectifier and now I get neck glow and vertical collapse. I have adjusted the x and y on the board. I get horizontal movement, but nothing vertical. The game plays with sounds and all.

Where else should I be looking? Should I swap back in my old transistors? If they were bad would I crew something up? Can I test them with my multimeter? If so, how? Which transistors should I be looking at for the vertical collapse?

The game has always played blind, and had neck glow. Could this be a board issue? The collapse is in the center of the screen and stretches all the way across.

Also I'm a bonehead it's a G05-805... it's in a cabaret.
 
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Id check the transistors first make sure theyre making connection and not in backwards.

Next check the monitor plug for loose pins, and make sure your getting a y signal from the board.
 
Well it's not possible to put in the transistors backward because they're assymetrical and the screws wouldn't line up. But how do you test for a y signal? Also the pins are all pretty good.
 
Oh yes, people have managed to put them in the wrong way 'round before !

Ever since I fixed my brother-in-law's printing problem by turning the Centronics plug on the matrix printer (yes, long ago) upside down so it was in the RIGHT way I stopped being amazed at what people can actually achieve with stupidity+muscle strength :p

But since you did it yourself I'm assuming that is not the case.

Often (one of) the pins of the transistors can be touching the metal of the frame.

Measuring a transistor is easy enough: put the DVM in diode check put one lead on the case and touch the two pins one after the other. It is OK if you get "no change" or get a reading of about 0,5V. If you get a dead short (0 Volt) you have a bad transistor.
If you get nothing, reverse the red and black leads and try again to see what you get.
If you get "no change" on ALL combo's the transistor is dead too.

The small transistors and diodes on the deflection board can die too. You should check all transistors and diodes with the DVM in diode test in the Y deflection section (see schematics)

Here's how I recently fixed a B/W vector, although that has the V2000 defl. board, the principles are still the same:

http://www.dragonslairfans.com/smfor/index.php?topic=3559.0
 
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You can test them in circuit. A shorted diode will give a full short both ways (000 on display) and continues beep.
A good one will give "no change" in one way and when you reverse the leads it will give somewhere around 0,5 V and a short beep (if your DVM does that).

An open diode will give "no change" both ways.

Only in very rare circumstances you will have to test them out of circuit, most faults can be found in-circuit but there are exceptions.
 
Turns out it was a few things. First, there was a bad pin in a connector- replaced the pin and got half an image. After that I read a few more threads and decided to make sure the frame mounted transistors were making contact with the brackets. I bent the () brackets inward and made sure the legs had no grease on them, and that worked. Now I have a fully playable game.

Initially though the bad bridge rectifier was the culprit, and the monitor was completely dead.

So with a all new caps, transistors, bridge rectifers, and a capped ARII the game appears to be working pretty flawlessly.

Here's a pic.



Working Asteroids by mhanlen1, on Flickr
 
Cool, well done !

You have no idea how happy I was today when I got it back to life. Hell I was really jazzed when I was able to coax half an image out if it this morning. Luckily all I need now is to determine if I need a bulb or a starter for the marquee and put a new CPO on it.
 
You have no idea how happy I was today when I got it back to life. Hell I was really jazzed when I was able to coax half an image out if it this morning. Luckily all I need now is to determine if I need a bulb or a starter for the marquee and put a new CPO on it.

Nice… doesn't look too bad. Looks like you might need to fill in some holes where someone drilled to fit the plexi.
 
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