G05-802 Troubleshooting Flow Chart

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I have two Asteroids Deluxe games sitting side by side trying to narrow down a problem with one of them playing blind. Has neck glow with no spot killer. Narrowed it down to the monitor itself by swapping components. Has there ever been a troubleshooting flowchart made for the G05? :poop:
 
Not that are of any use. Your best bet is t search threads here, as I've posted in hundreds of them, with every possible issue you could have with an 802.

If you have neck glow, and the spot killer LED is going out (and then comes back on again when you press and hold the RESET button on the game board), then your deflection system is working, and as long as your brightness and contrast are up all the way, you most likely have no HV, which is common on all of these. The diode springs rust, go resistive, and kill the HV. Thread below.

If the LED doesn't come on when you press the reset button, the deflection board has bigger issues, as the deflection system is not working.

 
I ordered a cap kit, new hv diode etc. and will clean up the boot, springs and secure those two connections with solder. Thanks again Andrew for taking the time to provide valuable searchable content. Thumbs high! (y)
 
Cool.

FYI, you usually don't need to replace the diodes on these. (As it isn't the diode itself that's the issue.) 90% of the time, when you clean the springs and solder them to the diode (which you need to do anyway), the diodes are still fine. No need to throw a good $20 diode in the trash.
 
Would of installed the rebuild kit, swap out a few other components and gone from there. After I refresh the diode and springs I am hoping for a more stable image.

A pic for those who care.
 

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I have two Asteroids Deluxe games sitting side by side trying to narrow down a problem with one of them playing blind. Has neck glow with no spot killer. Narrowed it down to the monitor itself by swapping components. Has there ever been a troubleshooting flowchart made for the G05? :poop:

My Asteroids recently had the exact same symptoms (neck glow, no spot killer, playing blind). It goes without saying, check the fuses (F100, F101). Mine were both blown, indicating a power problem. I then checked the bridge rectifier and found it had failed (short across one of the legs). A new bridge rectifier and two 5A SB fuses later, it was back up and running. A grand total of $2 and 30 minutes of work.
 
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No one mentioned to resolder the connectors, yet? This is the 1st thing I would do. Tough up all the solder connections on the headers of the chassis board. Next, check the 4 power transistors on the frame of the monitor and don't forget about the sockets for the transistors. Also another over looked item is the harness that runs up to the chassis board. More specific, the pins inside of the connector. All it takes is one of the pins pushed into the plug that isn't making connections. One last thing, I worked on one that had a bad "Big Blue" cap that wasn't working and this caused the monitor not to fire up.
 
Touch up soldering was my first step followed by my flowchart question which turned into a monitor repair thread. So while in Rome I figured why not refresh whats here.

Not an accuse for posting in the wrong area. It's like a wanted ad in the for sale section. I get it... It'll get your goat. 🦨
 
Would of installed the rebuild kit, swap out a few other components and gone from there. After I refresh the diode and springs I am hoping for a more stable image.

A pic for those who care.

I assume you know, but for anyone following, those aren't the springs. The springs are still stuck inside the boots. Those are just the 'contacts' of the diode, which they made by looping the leads around, to make a contact point for the spring to touch.

But now you can see the flaw in this design, as the springs only contact that coiled up mess at a single point. And when that point rusts or gets dirty, you get a bad connection, which generates heat, and the whole thing burns up. That's the achilles' heel of these HV cages.

You just want to make sure you clean all of the old grease out of the boots, using lots of Q-tips and Goof Off. Just keep wiping with freshly soaked Q-tips until they come out clean. Then I usually shine a light down into the boot, to make sure I got it all. If you did it right, you should see the clean metal cup inside the end of the boot, which the spring sits in. The inside of that cup needs to be perfectly clean as well, as the spring will seat inside it. Then make sure you soak the springs in vinegar, and then brush them clean with a brass rush (or tumble them in a rock tumbler, as I do), so there's no rust on them.

Anyway, sounds like you're on the right track. Let us know how it goes.
 
My boots ended up being extremely dirty. Covered in black :poop:. Replaced the hv diode, bridge recifier at db100, 2 larger 6800 uf caps, installed monitor cap kit, rebuilt ar. After giving the game a complete cleaning I replaced the black light, starters, big blue and installed new buttons. I forgot how badass AD was not just for it's intense game play but also it's sophisticated art work, lighting and sound.
 
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