G05-802 problems

bungy

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I have a G05-802 that does not work, and a 19V2000 that does work. 19V200 is in an Asteroids Deluxe and the game plays fine, and I am troubleshooting the G05-802 with this cabinet. When I first hooked up the G05, the spot killer LED stayed lit, and there was no neck glow, all fuses tested ok. Jiggling the P500 connector made the neck glow, so I reflowed solder to all pins on all connectors (P100 pins, P500, P600, P700, P701). Now spot killer is still on and the neck glows.

Took a closer look at the fuses and some idiot had installed 10A fuses in all the sockets. I replaced the fuses with the correct values and now F102 blows when I power it up. DB100 tests ok. Cap kit has not been installed on this monitor. Chassis transistors are not shorted to chassis. Voltages at P600 & P700 seem to be ok. Not reading any voltages on the P500 connector except for pin 10 which reads 6.3v for the heater.

I have read the B&W X-Y FAQ, G05-802 manual, and 19V2000 manual but can't seem to figure out what to do now. Where should I go next? Is there a flowchart for the G05-802?
 
Well, that makes sense, I started out with the assumption they were the same. I'll wait until my Asteroids PCB comes in and then work in that cabinet.
 
You can use the AD PCB in the Asteroids cab with no problems. Picture will be backwards, and controls will be backwards but that is about it.
 
if the thing has not been capped then cap it and replace the chassis transistors.If it still does not work then troubleshoot it. Troubleshooting a monitor that has never been capped is a waste of time imho. Just because the transistors aren't shorted to chassis doesn't mean they are good.
 
You can use the AD PCB in the Asteroids cab with no problems. Picture will be backwards, and controls will be backwards but that is about it.

I just tried that and the game plays blind. Fuse still blows, but only when P900 is connected to the EHT board.

if the thing has not been capped then cap it and replace the chassis transistors.If it still does not work then troubleshoot it. Troubleshooting a monitor that has never been capped is a waste of time imho. Just because the transistors aren't shorted to chassis doesn't mean they are good.

I got to the point where I was testing transistors and gave up for the day. Is it worth it to test the transistors individually or just replace them all? I think I read somewhere that testing them with a DMM may not be completely effective.
 
I just tried that and the game plays blind. Fuse still blows, but only when P900 is connected to the EHT board.



I got to the point where I was testing transistors and gave up for the day. Is it worth it to test the transistors individually or just replace them all? I think I read somewhere that testing them with a DMM may not be completely effective.

Personally, i just replace the chassis mounted ones. The cap kit from Bob Roberts with transistors is about $14.00 , if it's still blowing fuses after that, then meter out the others. I just "shotgunned" a k6100 color xy that was blowing fuses and it solved the problem. If you are keeping the game you will want to cap it anyway. Why not cap it,change out the chassis transistors, and possibly save a lot of time troubleshooting. You could very well have a bad transistor elsewhere, but i always think a cap kit with chassis transistors is the best place to start. Just my .02
 
I recapped the monitor (w/transistors), and R100 was way out of spec so I jumpered it. I received a working Asteroids board and it works great in my Deluxe cabinet. Shotgunned the AR board and am getting 5v at game board. Game plays blind now. The fuse on the deflection board doesn't blow anymore, and the tube gets static-y now. Spot killer is still lit though.

Checked the voltages at P100 while everything was connected and got this:
Pin 7 to 8: 28VAC
Pin 9 to 10: 22VAC

Both should have been 30VAC, but 9 & 10 seem really low. Down at the power brick, all the voltages look good except pins 11 & 13 which read 56VAC (expected 65VAC). Big Blue has just been replaced as well. Could there be a problem elsewhere in the power brick?
 
The P100 pinout is NOT the same for a G05-802 and a 19V2000, and is most likely causing your current problem.


Strange... I had two Asteroids... one had a G05-802 the other a 19V2000 and they were both interchangeable. As a matter of fact, I tested my Battlezone G05-802's monitor on the Asteroids that was running the 19V2000 to verify the monitor chassis was not causing the issue with the waving (different story). After checking both manuals, and going through about 1/3 of the pins... they matched up. I think you're confusing the G05-801 and the 19V2000 which do not have compatible P100 pinouts.
 
I just checked the schematics & monitor pinouts and the G05-802 and the 19V2000 are interchangeable. What's confusing is in the G05-802 manual, the P100 connector is mapped to PCB pins, and in the schematic it has pins listed as "To-P100", but they are PCB pin numbers.
 
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