g3n3r1c
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Sense or not, it's working and looks great. Jimjaycee just left with a boatload of pics for confirmation. He'll post them soon.
G05-802 HV cage in a G05-801 Possible??
- Thread starter jetusenet
- Start date
Sense or not, it's working and looks great. Jimjaycee just left with a boatload of pics for confirmation. He'll post them soon.
Jimjaycee
Member
Here is a few pictures of the 801/802 set up.
The GO5-802 High Voltage unit clearly in view.
The only major mod showing is this wire running from voltage regulator to a diode into the
winding (shown)
The GO5-802 High Voltage unit clearly in view.
The only major mod showing is this wire running from voltage regulator to a diode into the
winding (shown)
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g3n3r1c
Permanently Banned
fixed.
Sorry, I keyed in th wrong part number.
It's a 6059, not that it should make any difference.
Sorry, I keyed in th wrong part number.
It's a 6059, not that it should make any difference.
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g3n3r1c
Permanently Banned
Just bumping this to say the frankenmonitor is still going strong.
smitymike11
Active member
This is very interesting since I have a 801 missing the hv cage. How much would something like this cast to have done?
g3n3r1c
Permanently Banned
You'll have to find a working 802 HV unit. The parts to do it are less than $10
smitymike11
Active member
Are those just as hard to find as the 801 unit?
No. You could also likely use a V2000 cage.
Biltronix
New member
I thought I'd try to make it a little more obvious exactly what the modification (diode+wire) shown on g3n3r1c's post with pics is actually doing. I hacked the original GO5-801 regulator schematic to show the modification and posted it here.
I believe that Jetusenet was rightfully confused by g3n3r1c saying that "pin 1 was 26.5V" because the modification clearly should have made that pin much higher, as high as +40V. Also, another member reported that either a faulty Q100 bottlecap transistor, or the incorrect one, caused the output to go up to +40V as well. This is a direct proof that the output from the DB100 fullwave bridge should in fact be close to +40VDC. With the modification, pin-2 should stay at the regulated level of +25VDC (or close to that) and pin-1 should be close to +40V which is ideal to supply the -802 HV box.
I believe that Jetusenet was rightfully confused by g3n3r1c saying that "pin 1 was 26.5V" because the modification clearly should have made that pin much higher, as high as +40V. Also, another member reported that either a faulty Q100 bottlecap transistor, or the incorrect one, caused the output to go up to +40V as well. This is a direct proof that the output from the DB100 fullwave bridge should in fact be close to +40VDC. With the modification, pin-2 should stay at the regulated level of +25VDC (or close to that) and pin-1 should be close to +40V which is ideal to supply the -802 HV box.
I thought I'd try to make it a little more obvious exactly what the modification (diode+wire) shown on g3n3r1c's post with pics is actually doing. I hacked the original GO5-801 regulator schematic to show the modification and posted it here.
I believe that Jetusenet was rightfully confused by g3n3r1c saying that "pin 1 was 26.5V" because the modification clearly should have made that pin much higher, as high as +40V. Also, another member reported that either a faulty Q100 bottlecap transistor, or the incorrect one, caused the output to go up to +40V as well. This is a direct proof that the output from the DB100 fullwave bridge should in fact be close to +40VDC. With the modification, pin-2 should stay at the regulated level of +25VDC (or close to that) and pin-1 should be close to +40V which is ideal to supply the -802 HV box.
Thanks for writing that up. You should submit it to ArcArc.
g3n3r1c
Permanently Banned
I thought I'd try to make it a little more obvious exactly what the modification (diode+wire) shown on g3n3r1c's post with pics is actually doing. I hacked the original GO5-801 regulator schematic to show the modification and posted it here.
I believe that Jetusenet was rightfully confused by g3n3r1c saying that "pin 1 was 26.5V" because the modification clearly should have made that pin much higher, as high as +40V. Also, another member reported that either a faulty Q100 bottlecap transistor, or the incorrect one, caused the output to go up to +40V as well. This is a direct proof that the output from the DB100 fullwave bridge should in fact be close to +40VDC. With the modification, pin-2 should stay at the regulated level of +25VDC (or close to that) and pin-1 should be close to +40V which is ideal to supply the -802 HV box.
Except that it was.
Jim has pictures.
OP
OP
I thought I'd try to make it a little more obvious exactly what the modification (diode+wire) shown on g3n3r1c's post with pics is actually doing. I hacked the original GO5-801 regulator schematic to show the modification and posted it here.
I believe that Jetusenet was rightfully confused by g3n3r1c saying that "pin 1 was 26.5V" because the modification clearly should have made that pin much higher, as high as +40V. Also, another member reported that either a faulty Q100 bottlecap transistor, or the incorrect one, caused the output to go up to +40V as well. This is a direct proof that the output from the DB100 fullwave bridge should in fact be close to +40VDC. With the modification, pin-2 should stay at the regulated level of +25VDC (or close to that) and pin-1 should be close to +40V which is ideal to supply the -802 HV box.
William;
Thank you again for the diagram, much appreciated.
-Jeff
OP
OP
Just a heads up, if one were to do the mod you outlined to a Issue 3 regulator PCB, one would be sending ~ +45v into the deflection PCB, (see pic).....
What issue regulator board do you have?
BTW, I tested this, (my mod), voltage-wise and I am getting about +45v (unregulated) going to the HV cage. I am not too keen on running it this way but will do until I can get the correct cage.
Jeff
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Biltronix
New member
@jetusenet
Comparing your issue #3 PCB to the schematic that I posted, the P101 pins #1 and #2 appear to be swapped. The inductor L100 is placed in line with pin #2 on your board. The schem shows it in line with pin #1. Obviously there's either a schem error or it's a different rev. I have not checked for other revisions.
If g3n3r1c's PCB is the same as yours (issue #3) and is modded as per his posted pics, that would certainly explain why his pin #1 remained at +26.5V. The +40V would be coming out at pin #2. I went back and looked closely at his photo and this does appear to be the case. Obviously the +26.5V should go to the deflection board and the +40V to the HV box. Just make sure your wiring gets the pin #1 and #2 issue sorted correctly.
I wish I had a drawing of the -801 wiring harness to check this, but if we assume that the P101 pin order on the schematic has pins 1 and 2 swapped and that on the PCB, P101 pin 2 goes to the HV supply, then your modification as shown in the photo has two problems that need to be fixed. The HV is coming out on the wrong pin and you forgot to include the new diode.
To fix it:
1) repair the cut trace
2) remove L100 and leave it out
3) undo the red wire at P101-1
4) install a diode in line with the red wire and attach the diode cathode to P101-2
Why did I recommend removing L100 ?
In the -801 system, I assume that L100 was intended to keep possible power line ripple generated by the HV box from getting back into the deflection system. In the -802 system, the power regulator board was eliminated and the rectifier was integrated into the deflection board. Also, the voltage regulators and inductor were eliminated. The -802 HV box has its own built-in RC filter and output voltage regulator. Therefore, the presence of L100 in the -801 regulator probably provides no benefit when using the -802 HV box because the HV box won't be tossing out much, if any, noise on the power line. Besides, this modification of the regulator board separates the supply of the -802 HV box from the deflection board (the entire regulator circuit now separates them) so I believe that L100 is no longer needed.
Bill B.
Comparing your issue #3 PCB to the schematic that I posted, the P101 pins #1 and #2 appear to be swapped. The inductor L100 is placed in line with pin #2 on your board. The schem shows it in line with pin #1. Obviously there's either a schem error or it's a different rev. I have not checked for other revisions.
If g3n3r1c's PCB is the same as yours (issue #3) and is modded as per his posted pics, that would certainly explain why his pin #1 remained at +26.5V. The +40V would be coming out at pin #2. I went back and looked closely at his photo and this does appear to be the case. Obviously the +26.5V should go to the deflection board and the +40V to the HV box. Just make sure your wiring gets the pin #1 and #2 issue sorted correctly.
I wish I had a drawing of the -801 wiring harness to check this, but if we assume that the P101 pin order on the schematic has pins 1 and 2 swapped and that on the PCB, P101 pin 2 goes to the HV supply, then your modification as shown in the photo has two problems that need to be fixed. The HV is coming out on the wrong pin and you forgot to include the new diode.
To fix it:
1) repair the cut trace
2) remove L100 and leave it out
3) undo the red wire at P101-1
4) install a diode in line with the red wire and attach the diode cathode to P101-2
Why did I recommend removing L100 ?
In the -801 system, I assume that L100 was intended to keep possible power line ripple generated by the HV box from getting back into the deflection system. In the -802 system, the power regulator board was eliminated and the rectifier was integrated into the deflection board. Also, the voltage regulators and inductor were eliminated. The -802 HV box has its own built-in RC filter and output voltage regulator. Therefore, the presence of L100 in the -801 regulator probably provides no benefit when using the -802 HV box because the HV box won't be tossing out much, if any, noise on the power line. Besides, this modification of the regulator board separates the supply of the -802 HV box from the deflection board (the entire regulator circuit now separates them) so I believe that L100 is no longer needed.
Bill B.
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g3n3r1c
Permanently Banned
Unfortunately I gave the monitor back to the guy I was repairing it for, and no longer have it around for reference.
smitymike11
Active member
How hard would it be for someone to reproduce the hv unit for a 801? I know there is someone making stuff to fix the lights for the neo-geo so could the place he has making the boards for that make boards for this or would the cost be to high?
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It can be done, but it's difficulty would be about 9 out of 10
The B&W Flybacks are not available, so a color Flyback would need to be used.
It's a good project for way down the track. I have thought about it for the G05-802's, and that means it could be adapted to the G05-801's
I say, don't hold your breath, as research is very time consuming
OP
OP
William;
Thank you for the reminder regarding the diode, forgot that! I spliced in a 1N5402 as per your recommendation.
The outputs on P101 are schematically correct (is that a real word?).
P101-1 (orange) goes to the HV cage as outlined in the schems, that was the first item I verified once I observed the descrepancy between the suggested mod, the schems and the actual PCB.
I spliced in the diode and swapped the inductor for a jumper for now until the proper cage can be had.
This is a good post for the archives!
Jeff
Thank you for the reminder regarding the diode, forgot that! I spliced in a 1N5402 as per your recommendation.
The outputs on P101 are schematically correct (is that a real word?).
P101-1 (orange) goes to the HV cage as outlined in the schems, that was the first item I verified once I observed the descrepancy between the suggested mod, the schems and the actual PCB.
I spliced in the diode and swapped the inductor for a jumper for now until the proper cage can be had.
This is a good post for the archives!
Jeff
DanP
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Bit of a necro bump because I was doing some research to see if the 802 > 801 HV was possible, from this thread it seems like it might be. Re uploading Bills schematics image retrieved from archive.org.
OP
OP
Mine is still going strong.......
