G05-802 F100 Issue

FrizzleFried

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F100 gets RED HOT... but doesn't burn... I've used the monitor for over 30 minutes thus far, all along, F100 is RED HOT... what gives?

Why doesn't it blow? There has to be a short if the thing gets red hot right? I replaced what appeared to be a blown fuse there originally, but it TOO worked (and I assume got red hot based on the black charred glass of the fuse).

Again... what gives?
 
f100

I think you have lost one of your 30v legs going to the deflection pcb. The game will still show a pic with one leg, but the resistor in that circuit is taking a hell of a beating.
 
I think you have lost one of your 30v legs going to the deflection pcb. The game will still show a pic with one leg, but the resistor in that circuit is taking a hell of a beating.

Can you speak-a de-English please... :D

...what do I do to fix this problem? Chassis has been re-capped but I did not mess with the transistors.
 
vector

You have 2 seperate 30 v sources coming from your power supply that go to the deflection pcb. One of them is not making it there for some reason. You will have to figure out why. Have you reflowed the headder pins on the deflection pcb? That is the most common cause. See if you have 30 v on f100 and f101.
 
I'm getting 36.5VDC at F100 and nothing on F101. Sounds like you hit it on the head. I suppose I'll pull the deflection PCB and reflow the header...any other parts you'd suggest I look at? Also, no need to discharge to pull the deflection PCB, right?
 
Discharge.

No need to discharge if you dont hit the Anode with your hand. Caps, chassis transistors and reflowing solder on stuff is about all you need to do. Bobs deluxe kit comes with those resistors. You might consider replacing those as well depending on how long it ran like that.
 
Well... it's a step... just not sure which direction... good or bad.

I reflowed all headers as well as the wires that come from the harness connector...

Now F100 and F101 immediately blow. The good is, I suppose, that we're now getting power to F101...

What now?

:D
 
What is it with you and fixing vector monitors? :D

Fixing? I seem to BREAK them... not FIX them.

Unfortunately.

Well, I tested the 4 transistors on the frame and none are shorting out to the frame... not sure where to go from here... >sigh<
 
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Page 43 of this FAQ describes what to do if F100 and F101 blow. Unfortunately, being the newb dumbass that I am, I have no idea how to perform the tests described or what to look for on the meter when I do said tests.

Can someone please take a look at the faq and perhaps in STUPID-PLAIN ENGLISH tell me specifically how to test DB100... C100 and C101 for example.

Damn... working on these things (when a standard cap kit fails) makes me feel stupid.

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...1ZHiDw&usg=AFQjCNGPwLvpYpiIXyNATLBHXTtEmkxK2Q
 
Testing the bridge DB100...
Set meter for diode test
place black lead on + leg, red lead to one of the AC legs take reading, then move red lead to the other AC leg. place red lead on the - leg, black lead to one of the AC legs take reading, black lead to other AC leg.

Bridge is setup as...
AC +

- AC

Didn't pull up the specific bridge, so it could also be like this...

+
AC
AC
-
 
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Monitor

If you have capped this c100 and 101 should be good. If not lokk for the caps to be leaking or broken legs. Otherwise you can check to see if they have continuity. If they do, they are bad. The diode. You need to check that it has continuity in one direction and not the other. The diode test on your meter will do this. There should be an audible beep in one direction but not the other.
 
I noticed with C100 and C101 I'll get a beep briefly and then it will stop...if I reverse the leads I get a beep then it stops... the meter numbers start climbing... when they're around 0 it beeps...then it climbs...I reverse it drops until it hits zero then it beeps for a second then it begins to climb in the negative direction.

Is this proper behavior?
 
I noticed with C100 and C101 I'll get a beep briefly and then it will stop...if I reverse the leads I get a beep then it stops... the meter numbers start climbing... when they're around 0 it beeps...then it climbs...I reverse it drops until it hits zero then it beeps for a second then it begins to climb in the negative direction.

Is this proper behavior?

Yes, they sound good.....or at minimum, they're not shorted.

Edward
 
Testing the bridge DB100...
Set meter for diode test
place black lead on + leg, red lead to one of the AC legs take reading, then move red lead to the other AC leg. place red lead on the - leg, black lead to one of the AC legs take reading, black lead to other AC leg.

Bridge is setup as...
AC +

- AC

Didn't pull up the specific bridge, so it could also be like this...

+
AC
AC
-

I was finally able to go out and meter this... Here are my results.

The Diode bridge is square so it looks like this

AC -
+ AC

Testing from + to the top AC I get .571 ... testing from the + to the BOTTOM AC I get .000

Testing from the - to the top AC I get .564 ... testing from the - to the BOTTOM AC I get .574

Now what stands out is the .000... shorted? Time for a new diode bridge? If so, where do I get one of them?

EDIT: After a little research it seems the side that is getting a reading both on + and - is the issue... I should only get a reading one direction... right?

The part number seems to be KBPC602 - 8022 (one number on one side one on the other). A good source?

Anything else I should check? Am I assuming here?

EDIT #2: If I am assuming correct and this all sounds right... is this the right part? http://mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vis...=sGAEpiMZZMtcLAek5QF0i257Hwo3f0oW15tEVhSAd0M=
 
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I was finally able to go out and meter this... Here are my results.

The Diode bridge is square so it looks like this

AC -
+ AC

Testing from + to the top AC I get .571 ... testing from the + to the BOTTOM AC I get .000

Testing from the - to the top AC I get .564 ... testing from the - to the BOTTOM AC I get .574

Now what stands out is the .000... shorted? Time for a new diode bridge? If so, where do I get one of them?

EDIT: After a little research it seems the side that is getting a reading both on + and - is the issue... I should only get a reading one direction... right?

The part number seems to be KBPC602 - 8022 (one number on one side one on the other). A good source?

Anything else I should check? Am I assuming here?

EDIT #2: If I am assuming correct and this all sounds right... is this the right part? http://mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-Semiconductors/KBPC602PBF/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtcLAek5QF0i257Hwo3f0oW15tEVhSAd0M%3d


Bad diode in the bridge is highlighted above in red.

Yes, correct part or you can get it from Bob too. Bob has a different number on his, but it is the same.
 
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