G05-802 adapter? Needed to use in Lunar Lander wired for G05-801

Funny my asteroids had a hum and it was the connector for the monitor. Noticed when I wiggled it it would go away. Repinned the connector and fixed my prob.
 
Loud hum is almost always a bad TDA2002 on the AR, especially if it hums without the game board plugged in. You can use a DMM set to AC mV to test the SPKR1 and 2 test points on the AR, with no game board plugged in, to see which TDA is generating the hum (though you probably should just replace both, if you're going to do one of them.)

For the sparking fuse, is the fuse the correct value? Sparking usually doesn't happen on the deflection board, but those two top fuses will just straight blow if one of the deflection amps on the board is bad, or the frame transistors are bad. My guess is you're getting a large inrush current, but the fuse is glowing, but not blowing(?) The fuses should be 2A fast (i.e., normal) blow, not slow-blow.

Test the 4 heatsinked transistors on the deflection board first (using a DMM), then all other small black transistors. You can check them in-circuit for most cases, though it is possible to have them go bad in ways that you can't see unless you remove them, but that's maybe 5% of the time. It helps if you have a known-working good board to compare to, but in your case maybe you can use the other bad board as at least a partial comparison.

Also test and/or just replace D608 and D708, as these frequently go bad, esp if they are the original glass ones. They are fairly close to the large hot power resistors, and take a lot of heat.

Also, test your frame transistors. (There is a technique for doing this quickly in my 6100 set-up guide, which you can use identically for b/w vector monitors.)

Also, do the mod where you bypass R100 and R101 with straight wires (see the FAQ), and replace Q500, 501, and 502, as these frequently cause issues, from being cooked next to R100.

Awesome info. The loud hum issue is my next tackle. And thanks for the tip of unplugging the pcb and if the hum is still there, narrowing the hum down to bad TDA2002's on the AR1.

FWIW, I've found that hum is either:

1. bad LM324 amp on game board; missing caps/resistors also perhaps around this IC
2. bad grounds or connections (edge etc)
3. bad TDA2002 amp(s) on ARI

Fixed many an asteroids by replacing #1. :cool:

More good info. I do hope it's the TDA's since I do tvwant to touch my working pcb really, unless it's a must.

Funny my asteroids had a hum and it was the connector for the monitor. Noticed when I wiggled it it would go away. Repinned the connector and fixed my prob.

Main connector only? Or should I re-pin all the connectors on the 802?
 
So made some progress on the picture issue tonight, but still have issues. I did a cap kit, re-soldered all the edge connectors, and changed the four bottle caps.

I now got rid of the collapsed screen and have a full screen. However, I still can not get rid of the extra lines, and bright center dot.

Once again brightness pot on the deflection works, but the contrast does nothing. Would the contrast pot be the one to remove the extra lines and bright dot if it worked?

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So made some progress on the picture issue tonight, but still have issues. I did a cap kit, re-soldered all the edge connectors, and changed the four bottle caps.

I now got rid of the collapsed screen and have a full screen. However, I still can not get rid of the extra lines, and bright center dot.

Once again brightness pot on the deflection works, but the contrast does nothing. Would the contrast pot be the one to remove the extra lines and bright dot if it worked?


Nice progress!

The retrace lines are more controlled by brightness. I wonder if you could potentially have an issue with the Z-output on your game board. Did you have a way to check this board against a known good monitor? (Sorry if you mentioned this, I'm too lazy to go back and check).

If not that, check the pots with a DMM, as well as Q503, Q504, and D506. Also, look for cracked traces and solder joints in that area, as well as any damage to all other parts in that area.

Also check the harness, and make sure there are no broken wires, or broken/bent pins on the tube.
 
(To clarify, your Z signal is stuck, so there's no blanking of the beam to hide the retrace lines between vectors, so you are seeing all of them. Sorry, I should have said that first.)
 
Anyone care to make this adapter and sell it to me? :) I am converting an asteroids to LL and don't have an 801 conveniently laying around. :)
 
Ok this problem sucks, lol. This is where stuff gets out of my league to fix....now with the possibility of issues with the game pcb Z signal and the deflection board, I'm screwed, lol.

Found this info online about Z signals, but it just makes it more daunting of a task to fix

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I am convinced it's something with the Z signal too, but where to start? Game pcb or deflection?

Just a note: the harness is a repro from goldenage, so I am hoping it's not a connector or wire issue....Kens stuff is usually rock solid.
 
Is this the LL PCB I fixed for you? If so, I doubt it's the logic PCB. :cool: Video, sound and game play worked in my LL cabinet.
You always have the option of sending it back ... :) ... I'll do a warrantee repair ... even though you never had to pay me to fix it in the first place. LOL
 
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Is this the LL PCB I fixed for you? If so, I doubt it's the logic PCB. :cool: Video, sound and game play worked in my LL cabinet.
You always have the option of sending it back ... :) ... I'll do a warrantee repair ... even though you never had to pay me to fix it in the first place. LOL

Yes my dear friend. This is "the one" :) Your payment options and warranty repair is the best in the business......I dont care what ANYONE says about you behind your back. You are ma man, ma main main!!!!!!

From what you read and see, do you think that it is the Z circuit too on the pcb?
 
Your monitor PCB must be able to adjust both BRIGHTNESS and CONTRAST. If the latter is not working, then you need to replace the POT or figure out what's wrong on the monitor chassis.

For Zout, I would check the wiring. I would scope the signal at the logic board and at the monitor, if you're careful. (or in your case, maybe put DVM on signal and see what the AC and DC values are) ... did I ever mention you should have a scope and learn how to use it? LOL - it's just a fancy DVM that shows waveforms instead of numeric readings ... :001_ssmile:
 
BTW, Zout is a pretty straight forward circuit (at the output stage). I cannot recall if your PCB had ZOUT issues or it was another I fixed that had all the retrace lines showing. :confused: In any case, your PCB seems to be running code OK.

Also check to see if any other the small transistors are short (with PCB unpowered).

If you have a logic probe, you can check the SCALEx signals, BLANKn etc. :)

Check to see if there are obvious rework done to any of these components.

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Good news, bad news.

The good:
Tested the 802 in my AD, and it worked perfectly. So I then suspected my LL pcb was the issue. I then plug in the 802 back into the LL and it worked there too.

This made me suspect there was a pin not making proper contact in the monitor connector.

The bad:
I continue testing, wiggle some wires and the hum goes away. However while testing gameplay, it would reset randomly, so I trace an issue to a connector on the fuse block which was flaky, replace it, and seemed fine again. But then again in gameplay it started resetting again, so I played with the test switch connectors and realized they were loose too, and tightened those two connectors as well and SEEMED to work fine again.

Then finally during a game, it reset, but then just powered off. The green light on the pcb is off and nothing works.

The only things working is the marquee light and the coin door light.

I have a spare restored AR1 I know is working, switched it out, and still nothing.

Could this be a power brick issue? If so what?

And

When the 802 is working properly, should the spot killer red led light on the deflection pcb be on or off?

Here is a pick of the monitor set up, bolted into place and working with no scan lines and bright center spot l, until the system decided to take a crap!!!!

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So, you have power and wire issues? ZOUT on the LL board is OK ... so issue was the harness?

RESET = incorrect +5V perhaps; you never mentioned measuring this.
SPOT KILLER = "bad"; remember this = RED LED on a vector deflection board is "bad". "B - A - D" :001_scool:
 
Oh, and for those who are wondering, yes, I put a GREEN LED on Cossack's LL logic board instead of a RED LED to make it more obvious that the GREEN for the +5V power is a GOOD visual signal (vs a RED LED which should indicate a BAD visual signal). LOL :)

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Sucks that it's a harness issue. Maybe because it was Kens first LL harness reprod. I had to even move a few of the coin door connector wires, as there were four wires in the wrong spots.

Now I will have to go through the whole harness figuring out the faulty area to correct.

At least I got to play four games before it crapped out. Scored my first 5x points landing. This game can be addictive as it's challenging and fun.
 
For some background, there are two versions of the 801 described in the 801 manual, a '25V version' (which operates on 56V, or a 28-0-28 transformer in the brick), and a '35V version', (which operates on 74V AC, from a 37-0-37 transformer). The 35V version is also labeled as a 'G05-802', but this is not the same as a true 802, as described in the 802 manual (and nobody seems to know why Atari did this, so it's just one of those mysteries). You need to look at the zener diodes on the monitor's power board to see which version you have. (Details under link below).

The 802 is listed in its manual as 30V (which is actually 60VAC, from a 30-0-30 transformer in the brick). So, depending on how accurate your brick is, AND which version of the 801 you have, you may or may not be able to get away with driving an 801 from an 802 brick (but chances are you'll be overdriving it, as I *think* most 801's are the 56V type, though I have limited data to support that, so take it with a grain of salt).

I don't have much experience with trying lots of combinations, as I just always make sure to use the right brick for the monitor, and measure brick to confirm. The bricks and harnesses are pinned differently, to prevent you from plugging the wrong stuff together, but some people have tried to bypass/repin/etc to get around that, so you should always be suspicious of what you have, check the pinout against the schematics, and measure the voltage with a DMM.

If you want a related thread, see here. But the info all comes from the respective manuals:

https://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=329297

Excellent post.
Thanks I did not know about the two different values for the G05-801
 
No prob Pat, you're welcome.

Cossack, if you have an AD with an 802, you can plug the LL board into it to test it. It won't play, but you should be able to see attract mode and test mode, just to get another data point.

I'm suspicious of this harness, if the game board worked for VC. Though at this point it sounds like something else blew, so you might have multiple issues.

Not knocking Ken's work at all (as I know he does good work), but I know from my own experience how easy it is to screw up a couple of pins on a harness connector. You definitely should check all of the pinouts against the schematics.
 
I have one of these on the way to test. If it works well Level99 here on KLOV will start producing them! It's an 802 monitor to 801 cab adapter harness!

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