G-07's are piling up LOL Parts to replace

junkyardjedi

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I've got four G-07 chassis that I need to rebuild and get working mainly three to start with for games that are broken. Aside from new caps and a flyback what other parts should I look at replacing. One of them I have replaced the flyback and caps and still nothing So I've watched a bunch of videos and used the flowchart so I need to cover all my bases to get these things working. I have brought several K7000's back from the dead but I'm unfamiliar with the problem areas I should be looking at when it comes to G-07 chassis. Any help would be appreciated
 
Follow the Randy Fromm flow chart. G07's are very easy to revive. Make sure if you replace HOT or Voltage Regulator that you install them properly, use a mica and heat sink paste, and attach the wires the right way. I've fixed a bunch of failed repairs where everything was correct except that the HOT was upside down. If replacing fuses install a remote fuse holder or clips to make the next repair and troubleshooting easier.

If you are capping a working monitor:

Cap kit including all electrolytic caps

C402 - 2.2uf 35v tantalum cap (blue cap not marked on chassis)
C904 - 680uf/200v electrolytic B+ filter cap
Flyback (if OEM Grey cup flyback)
Note: Do not do the "curl mod" unless you know you need it

If repairing a dead G07, All of the above +

X01 HOT - 2DS871 and TO-3 mica insulator
X02 Voltage Regulator - 2SC1106 and TO-3 mica insulator
F901 - 1.25A 250V pigtail fuse (or fuse and clips)
F902 - 3A 250V pigtail fuse (or fuse and clips)

High Failure Rate parts:

R908 - 47k 1/2 watt resistor
FR401 - 68 ohm 2 watt fusible resistor
L503 - Width coil
IC501 - HA1244

BOM:
Caps: https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.co...its/electrohome-g07-cbo-monitor-cap-kit-105c/
Filter: https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.com/store/monitors/680uf-250v-nichicon-105c-b-filter-capacitor/
Flyback:https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.co...or-flybacks/a-29951b-electrohome-go7-flyback/
HOT: https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.com/store/monitors/2sd871/
Width Coil: https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.co...tor-parts/c30380a-electrohome-g07-width-coil/
V/Reg: https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.com/store/monitors/2sc1106/
FR401: https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.co...m-2-watt-wirewound-fusible-resistor-3-pieces/
R908: https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.com/store/components/resistors/47k-ohm-12-watt-resistor-5-pieces/
C402: https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.com/store/components/2-2uf-35v-tantalum-capacitor-mc1041/
F901: https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.com/store/monitors/1-25a-250v-axial-leaded-fuse-5x15mm-fast-blow/
F902: https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.com/store/monitors/3a-250v-axial-leaded-fuse-3ag-fast-blow/
IC501: https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.com/store/integrated-circuits/ttl-chips/ha11244/
 
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Perfect LOL Thats the best BOM Ive seen put together in awhile. Also I'd like to eliminate the through hole fuses and just mount some clips so if I have further issues I can just plug and play will 5mm mounts work for both fuses?
 
Dont forget to look over the pots and possibly replace those too.
 
Perfect LOL Thats the best BOM Ive seen put together in awhile. Also I'd like to eliminate the through hole fuses and just mount some clips so if I have further issues I can just plug and play will 5mm mounts work for both fuses?


i would add to that list is a B+ pot
https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.co...ome-g07-b-2k-ohm-trimmer-potentiometer-p1048/

the pot kits for the main the neck pcb are optional and sure make adjusting smooth
https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.com/?s=g07+pot+kit&post_type=product
 
Its easy to put $80-$100 in parts into one of these. But well worth it.

It is the best looking monitor (imo)
 
Its easy to put $80-$100 in parts into one of these. But well worth it.

It is the best looking monitor (imo)

Agreed. Best looking: G07 -> K4600 -> K4900 -> K7000 -> everything else

Reliability though is definitely 4900 -> 7000 -> G07 -> K4600 -> unspeakably large gap -> everything else

G07 and his three Wells-Gardner friends (and 20-EZs too I guess) are gods among many many other shitty monitors. Go figure everything else sucks, even ones that are 20 years newer. Like U2000/U5000s/K7400s, completely trash monitor, and if you struggle enough to get a chassis going, the tubes last about as long as fresh fruit. G07s rule and are timeless when rebuilt properly... wish they made a 25" one lol

Even with 40 years on their back they are reliable workhorses even in the most grueling situations, in quite a crazy manner.

Here on location as soon as a monitor that isn't one of "my five" models (besides B&W and vectors of course) they get pulled and shelved and replaced with one... they treat you so much better and last almost infinitely long than other models it seems. Can run these things 12 hours a day and 7 days a week and they just never die.

Matsushitas just belong in the trash. Just replaced one of those in an Atari cab with a K4900 two days ago, feels good.

Not to mention parts & flyback availability
 
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I replaced all caps new flyback both fuses fr401 r908 and both t03 transistors and still nothing. Am I missing something?



Could be a lot of things. Check your B+ it may be in shutdown. Again, consult the Fromm chart and see if that helps.
 
just checked it and I'm getting nothing at the B+ positive on the white wire and black on the chassis I checked the T-03 and its stiil good

If you've checked your fuses out of circuit and they're good then you probably have an open resistor in the 900's. Test voltage at the other side of that large white resistor and if you have voltage there it's bad. Check the 900's for an open. Make sure you've got A/C to the chassis (bad connector or line cord). Make sure you're using an isolation transformer.
 
Well the fuses are brand new and I checked the ac voltage going in first. I'll check the other side of the resistor tomm. I'm kinda frustrated with it at this point its been an ongoing thing trying to get these working. I keep replacing parts with no results. Repairing k7000's are so much easier LOL
 
Well the fuses are brand new and I checked the ac voltage going in first. I'll check the other side of the resistor tomm. I'm kinda frustrated with it at this point its been an ongoing thing trying to get these working. I keep replacing parts with no results. Repairing k7000's are so much easier LOL

Yes they are.

g07's can be easy but not always.

You probably have a crack coming from the flyback going elsewhere. Ohm/beep out all directions from the pins of the flyback.
 
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