FunHouse question: jaw-to-orbit gear linkage

kspiff

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Been digging into my FunHouse restoration for about a week and am having a blast, but have run into a specific problem I can't seem to Google the answer to.

The Rudy on my pf is 95% complete, but there is a linkage piece that goes from the jaw to the orbit gear, and I believe 2 pins w/ e-clips to hold it on either side. I have found nil on the repro market as yet for these specific parts.

Does anybody know if there is a vendor selling those pieces? Or for the purpose of making my own does anybody have pics of this piece and maybe some measurements or something? I would fucking pay to get really good info, I can't let this stop me from getting this thing going and can just fab something by hand if need be.

Also more of a general question, but if I plan to CC the pf after doing touchups, what is the best paint to use? I just saw a pin with some black that ran under the CC and am apprehensive about making the same error. Can I just go get oil paint and a mixing pad from the crafts store? Any specific brands or type? Anybody got some tips, or links to a de facto article on touchups and CC'ing?
 
there is a linkage piece that goes from the jaw to the orbit gear, and I believe 2 pins w/ e-clips to hold it

if I plan to CC the pf after doing touchups, what is the best paint to use? I just saw a pin with some black that ran under the CC and am apprehensive about making the same error. Can I just go get oil paint and a mixing pad from the crafts store? Any specific brands or type? Anybody got some tips, or links to a de facto article on touchups and CC'ing?

might be the part you are looking for here:
http://bayareaamusements.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=GS-966

i've found that the black sharpie loves to react badly with the clearcoat and "wisp" into the clear
its a crap shoot as to what paint will react with the cc
theres many different clear coats and many different paints
just get you an acrylic paint deal at wal mart as they have them. stay away from oil paint as that takes a long time to dry, like 2 weeks at least

i use the DUPONT medium fast acting clear i think its called and it works for me. get the hardener. diamond plate hard for some fast pinball action
wear goggles when you spray as soon as you drop the hardener in it creates isocyanate gas which is attracted to wet surfaces like your eyes and mouth. wear a breathing mask with organic filters
i get corks to fill bulb holes and invent custom switch covers so clear doesnt drip in there and in anyplace there a switch to get clear dripped onto and ruined like the pop bumper holes
be sure to lightly sand the PF with some 1600+ before spraying to give the clear something to cling to. dont worry about the scratches as they turn invisible when the clear reacts with the surface
let the clear breathe for 30 minutes before applying another coat
then let it cure for a month before applying wax
 
I will try to look up a pic I found where you can sort of make it out. As for it being the same as the lid linkage I don't know, might need to take the head apart and see. But I've been thru the complete FH line on MAD and Marco Spec and didn't see it.
 
Ok I found a REALLY good pic of what I need. I can't seem to save and insert the photo here, but here is a photobucket link:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/43314476@N08/4662966998/#/

See that yellowed plastic 'woddle' hanging off Rudy's chin, held in place with a pin and e-rings? THAT is what I need.

I'm surprised nobody seems to make this item. Guess the gears break a lot, but this item doesn't?
 
that seems to be a pretty rare part. It would be hard to recreate, but I bet you could use some piano wire to recreate the linkage. Other than that hoping bits show up on ebay might be your only hope.

Sorry dude.
 
This is the answer I was expecting. So I guess I will have to roll my own.

Will probably just use SS scrap tubing and flat bar from work and bribe our welder to tack it together with his stainless rod setup. I guess when I pull the head out I can just rig it up with some tubing and a wound paperclip, then reproduce the bracket using those measurements.

When I finally get around to doing it I'll post a writeup on it. Anybody else need one of these when I get to it, ain't much trouble to make multiples if you're already making 2 (...I like to keep extras lol :D).
 
you saw the gear part for sale at marco's right ?

dont forget there's two heads on ROAD SHOW
and you might find something with that as your search


nothing at mad amusements...
marco's either

.
 
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Bah that'd be gravy to reproduce with a CNC. I'd personally get way from plastic and use metal. But anyway drop [email protected] an email and I betcha he'd have it whipped up in a heart beat using Delrin or Delron or whatever the harder plastic is that he uses. That part is pretty darn tough, what exactly is wrong with it?
 
Saw the gear, yeah. Mine seems to already have a Delrin repro which is intact.

But anyway drop [email protected] an email and I betcha he'd have it whipped up in a heart beat using Delrin or Delron or whatever the harder plastic is that he uses.

Oh? That is worth a shot. I'd much rather have an exact replica.

That part is pretty darn tough, what exactly is wrong with it?

Missing lol. :p The linkage, pin, and e-clips, all missing. This machine was likely hodgepodged together with leftovers I'd imagine.
 
I picked up some insta morph today. It is a plastic you can mold after melting in 140 degree F water. The stick on my right was my first piece to play with. It was really easy to use and you could make the linkage pretty easy with it by making a general shape and then drilling / dremmel work.

The plastic is hard, but bends and can be remolded over and over again for fine tuning.

http://www.instamorph.com/

6503494739_4067d7a5e7_z.jpg
 
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That looks promising. I may need to look into that.

Still will need something for the small pins that hold the linkage to the orbit gear and jaw though. Am hoping some 1/4" stainless tubing from the scrap bin at work and 4 kotter pins can be used. If not I'll have to whip something up using some steel bar from the hardware store and maybe use a tubing cutter or cut-off wheel to lay a indent into it for e-clips.

Need to get rolling on this project soon. Damn thing is taking up too much room in pieces. Should be able to speed things up substantially now that I have a repro playfield. No need to finish cleaning the old one post mylar removal, touch up, or clear coat...

Stand by for the disastrous thread to follow this one. Somehow I fear I did not take enough pics during the dis-assembly of the old pf. Epic fail. :p
 
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