dc2010
Active member
completely agree, but if you go back to my original post i said i was considering it and was asking for feedback
all that said when i decide , ill post pics,
dc
Funhouse Playfield Overlay Question
- Thread starter HighScoreSaves
- Start date
completely agree, but if you go back to my original post i said i was considering it and was asking for feedback
all that said when i decide , ill post pics,
dc
Deadly
New member
Wow - could this thread have taken anymore wrong of a turn? Having a person come out of no where to blast you on an idea ... well .... that was uncalled for.
DC - I agree with Hugh about showing your work and yes, I do understand this is simply something you're contemplating taking on. There's soooo much good information on Pf restoration on the net that if there is any validity to using different methods and clear coats because of the system specific PF I'm sure you'd find what to use and what not to.
DC - I agree with Hugh about showing your work and yes, I do understand this is simply something you're contemplating taking on. There's soooo much good information on Pf restoration on the net that if there is any validity to using different methods and clear coats because of the system specific PF I'm sure you'd find what to use and what not to.
joeycuda
Well-known member
So, can someone post some techniques for successfully spraying automotive clearcoat over an overlay. I realize that while some swear by it, it also has a ton of potential for going wrong.
I have yet to try it, but my guess is:
-strip playfield
-reglue all inserts, likely a hair higher than they were if any cupping
-sand entire playfield, making surface/inserts flush in the process
-seal/clear, sand flat, wipe with naptha
-install overlay, cutting out for shooter lane/printed wood
-sand entire overlay, scuffing up the surface
-wipe with naptha
-shoot a few coats of clear
-hope nothing delaminates!
I have yet to try it, but my guess is:
-strip playfield
-reglue all inserts, likely a hair higher than they were if any cupping
-sand entire playfield, making surface/inserts flush in the process
-seal/clear, sand flat, wipe with naptha
-install overlay, cutting out for shooter lane/printed wood
-sand entire overlay, scuffing up the surface
-wipe with naptha
-shoot a few coats of clear
-hope nothing delaminates!
So I gave you feedback
IF you are considering maybe doing this for other people that's totally cool and great! (We need more good clearcoaters out there). Just make sure to put up some pics. Those that can afford to get a playfield cleared will probably be on the picky side My responses are completely from past experience. I had my Twilight Zone clearcoated by a guy who supposedly did great work only to have it return to me with way too much clear on it. I had to get it re-restored so that it was usable. Playfields with ramps will have issues if the clear is sprayed too thick. So laying down the clear is one thing and making the playfield playable is completely another thing. There is another guy on RGP right now that many people say he does excellent work but if you look at his pictures there is way too much clear on the playfield puddling up around the holes.
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Lindsey
Well-known member
Like everyone else is saying you'll need to restore some playfields and show your work before anyone will send you their playfields. Touch-up and clear of a pinball playfield is a totally different animal than repairing a crashed car. No one is saying you can't to it and it's not rocket science but there's no substitute for experience and experience is expensive. The best thing you can do is listen to the people with the most experience. I hope hsapinball is not discouraged from posting because there is no more experienced playfield restorer posting on this forum.
Deadly
New member
Too bad his experience doesn't cross over into standard practice of business conduct as well. Seeing a business owner act like this deters business and is juts plain bad form. I've read and re-read the posts and I see a verbal assault.
If the color came across incorrectly fine - but HSA needs to clarify their stance.
You don't see Cliff Rinear talking shit about the other guy/s who make protectors or Terry DeZwarte speaking ill of other parts competitors even when his business is being compared to others. These guys are class acts and is why I try to exclusively use them.
Yes I agree - it would be very nice to have someone with professional experience on PF restoration join this forum.
beerorkid
New member
I use tempered playfields
[size=-3]* runs away giggling *[/size]
[size=-3]* runs away giggling *[/size]
Lindsey
Well-known member
I'm not going to argue over what someone else's intent was because I have no idea. If you guys want to over dramatize the situation and argue over bullshit then be my guest.
My opinion remains exactly the same.
My opinion remains exactly the same.
hsapinball
Well-known member
PLAYFIELD OVERLAYS - Going back to the original topic of this post. I do not recommend using playfield overlays. They do not hold up well. Clear coating on top of them is asking for problems. A game like Funhouse you have other options. IPB (Illinois Pinball) remade FH playfields. They are already clear coated. Their newer run of FH playfields are already dimpled.
PLAYFIELD RESTORATIONS - This post has somewhat turned into a confusing issue. I do welcome anyone who wants to get into the playfield restoration/clear coating business. There is more than enough work for everyone. So as I said before, go for it. I never meant this as a negative but what I was trying to point out is that it looks harder than it looks. Lots of things can go wrong. Different processes have to be used on each type of playfield. If you do have automotive painting experience then that's a plus BUT spraying clear on a playfield is different than painting a car. As I said before, I run an auto body repair shop. I know how to paint and clear coat a car but when I first started doing playfields I discovered that the process is different. Adhesion properties are different on wood than on a car. Also older playfields are factory lacquered and this needs to be addressed when restoring a playfield.
It seems like there is a 80% failure rate with playfield restoration companies. Bill Davis was the original playfield restoration guy but now he is gone. Playfield Restorations had issues so now they dropped out. Neo stopped doing them and recently Karl in AZ got out of the business. I am now overloaded with work. I employee three professional artists and I now have about 85 customer playfields currently being worked on. My turnaround time is about 6 months. More than I like but quicker than what Bill Davis and PFR was doing when they were 1-2 years turnaround time.
My whole point with all of this is there is a learning curve. My first two years of doing playfields were for friends and myself. I did these for FREE until I got the process down. My third year I started to take in customer playfields at a discounted price until I got my new hired artists up to speed on playfield restoration.
So with the other playfield restoration guys dropping I do welcome others to start doing playfields. Get a website up and running with example pictures and so I can start referring business to you. I have more than enough work already. It would be nice to put some of the playfield workload on others getting in to the business. So please get some pictures posted and maybe a website up and running so others can see the quality of your work.
PLAYFIELD RESTORATIONS - This post has somewhat turned into a confusing issue. I do welcome anyone who wants to get into the playfield restoration/clear coating business. There is more than enough work for everyone. So as I said before, go for it. I never meant this as a negative but what I was trying to point out is that it looks harder than it looks. Lots of things can go wrong. Different processes have to be used on each type of playfield. If you do have automotive painting experience then that's a plus BUT spraying clear on a playfield is different than painting a car. As I said before, I run an auto body repair shop. I know how to paint and clear coat a car but when I first started doing playfields I discovered that the process is different. Adhesion properties are different on wood than on a car. Also older playfields are factory lacquered and this needs to be addressed when restoring a playfield.
It seems like there is a 80% failure rate with playfield restoration companies. Bill Davis was the original playfield restoration guy but now he is gone. Playfield Restorations had issues so now they dropped out. Neo stopped doing them and recently Karl in AZ got out of the business. I am now overloaded with work. I employee three professional artists and I now have about 85 customer playfields currently being worked on. My turnaround time is about 6 months. More than I like but quicker than what Bill Davis and PFR was doing when they were 1-2 years turnaround time.
My whole point with all of this is there is a learning curve. My first two years of doing playfields were for friends and myself. I did these for FREE until I got the process down. My third year I started to take in customer playfields at a discounted price until I got my new hired artists up to speed on playfield restoration.
So with the other playfield restoration guys dropping I do welcome others to start doing playfields. Get a website up and running with example pictures and so I can start referring business to you. I have more than enough work already. It would be nice to put some of the playfield workload on others getting in to the business. So please get some pictures posted and maybe a website up and running so others can see the quality of your work.
joeycuda
Well-known member
I bought a Classicarcades overlay for Space Invaders. I'm leery of overlays and consider them to only be an option if the original can't be restored or if it will never be repro'd. SI likely won't get repro'd. The wear on mine is the size of a magazine. Due to the intricate art, touching it up is not even possible.
That said, I'll try this at some point. It wont' be an A+ restoration with the overlay, but hopefully a nice looking, playable game.
That said, I'll try this at some point. It wont' be an A+ restoration with the overlay, but hopefully a nice looking, playable game.
dc2010
Active member
So I gave you feedback
My responses are completely from past experience. I had my Twilight Zone clearcoated by a guy who supposedly did great work only to have it return to me with way too much clear on it. I had to get it re-restored so that it was usable. Playfields with ramps will have issues if the clear is sprayed too thick. So laying down the clear is one thing and making the playfield playable is completely another thing. There is another guy on RGP right now that many people say he does excellent work but if you look at his pictures there is way too much clear on the playfield puddling up around the holes.
im picky about my playfields as well
i appreciate the good advice everyone , and when the time comes ill be sure to start a thread
once again
sorry to op, for highjacking your thread
thats all i got for now...
OP
OP
Now worries by me. My question was answered on the first page.
