Funhouse Playfield Overlay Question

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I have an overlay for the playfield of Funhouse and was wondering if anyone has any experience installing?

I have put on numerous cabinet side art, never this playfield though...

Any ideas?
Is there anyone in the pin world that installs these?
 
I have an overlay for the playfield of Funhouse and was wondering if anyone has any experience installing?

I have put on numerous cabinet side art, never this playfield though...

Any ideas?
Is there anyone in the pin world that installs these?

Clean the area with Naptha to remove any wax from the area being mylared.
Funhouse is NOTORIOUS for inserts popping up which then cause the mylar to bubble and is why most people remove it in the first place. Ensure you tap in all inserts flush to the top of the playfield. This also means doing inserts that might be counter sunk a bit. Once they are flush GLUE them in. If there is any playfield damage in the areas where the mylar is being applied ensure you fix those before processing. The VUK kick out area is infamous for wearing through the overlay and having a trench like effect. If you have that issue, use Dolphin Glaze to fix it. Buy yourself some Cliffy protectors to eliminate any further PF damage from occuring.
I know I sound like a damn Cliffy protector poster child - but I do firmly believe in his products and the purpose of saving a machine.
 
Be careful, i've seen a few of these installed and there is a lot of wrinkling and bubbling. I guess lining it up and getting the holes in for screws, etc. creates this problem. Better to bite the bullet and send it to a restorer to touch up the paint and clear coat for protection.
 
Be careful, i've seen a few of these installed and there is a lot of wrinkling and bubbling. I guess lining it up and getting the holes in for screws, etc. creates this problem. Better to bite the bullet and send it to a restorer to touch up the paint and clear coat for protection.

While I agree that clear coating is the ultimate way to go - it also requires full tear down where as mylar does not. And as far as "getting the holes in for screws, etc. creates this problem" ..... the mylar covers the areas where there are no screw or post holes. Not sure what you mean?
 
While I agree that clear coating is the ultimate way to go - it also requires full tear down where as mylar does not. And as far as "getting the holes in for screws, etc. creates this problem" ..... the mylar covers the areas where there are no screw or post holes. Not sure what you mean?

The OP has a playfield overlay to install..not mylar.
 
My experience from being in the playfield restoration business is not to use an overlay. FH playfields have been reproduced by IPB (Illinois Pinball). They sell them for $500-$600 at the pinball shows. The new playfields are already clear coated and overall they are nice.

Pinball overlays are a problem. They do not hold up. I have a secret way of clear coating on top of them to make them hold up BUT it does not solve the problem of the overlay sticking to the original wood surface.

Solution: Sell your FH overlay to someone else (eBay it). Then take the money and put it into a $500 IPB new FH playfield.

As of a month ago, IPB still had these FH playfields in-stock. You need to call them since their website is not updated with their current inventory. www.illinoispinball.com

Brian @ HSA Pinball
www.hsapinball.com
 
The OP has a playfield overlay to install..not mylar.

Ooooh yes my bad.

There were 2 or 3 runs of these made and one of them had the insert artwork as part of the overlay which in my opinion look terrible. Hopefully it's not that one ;)

Sorry for my tired ass not reading your post correctly OP.
But none the less leveling those inserts is a MUST!
 
Playfield overlays look bad as a general rule, but that's mostly because most of them are really cheap, horribly made inkjet attempts.

IF you have the Funhouse mylar overlay with clear mylar inserts w/text and screen printed inks produced by Phoenix Arcade, you have one of the good ones. I have many times wished I had one of these overlays and an otherwise beat Funhouse to stick it on... I've seen games with these and they were nice, you'd never have wear again either.

My suggestion (although I have no firsthand experience installing, FWIW...) would be to completely sand the playfield to the wood and make sure the inserts are level and clean. Then clearcoat and sand the wood repeatedly until it's super smooth. That's what will allow the overlay to adhere the best.

I've heard of some pinching/bubbling where things are screwed down tightly like posts. My advice here would be to NOT overtighten, and if you do get some twist/bubble at a post, take an exacto knife and carefully trace the post with it, cutting through the overlay. That way the spin of the post will not twist the decal.

Wade
 
I worked at a window tinting place for almost 5 years. I am used to applying pressure sensitive adhesives on clean non porus surfaces. Our choice was joy dish washing soap mixed with filtered water. About 10 drops for a 20 oz spray bottle. Just so you can see a slight soapy pattern when sprayed against a wall. The soap breaks the surface tension so it coats instead of beads. Some folks used Jonsons baby shampoo.

Procedure for applying a pressure sensitive adhesive (one you can feel is sticky like a sticker or tape). Use a tack cloth to clean the surface to be coated. Completely coat both the surface to be coated and the film with a thin layer of the water and soap. Place the film on the surface and position. It should move freely and might stick a bit, but just work with it a bit to get it unstuck and that will get the liquid under the stuck part and let it float. Spray some of the soapy water on the top of the film to lube the top so you can push the water out. Use a squeegee to stick the center and then stick the film just enough on the X and Y axis. Then slowly work the liquid out one quadrant at a time till it is where you want it. Alternate up and to the side. The corner should be your last stroke. After it is all positioned and lightly squeegeed go over it again with hard pressure to get 95% of the liquid out by pushing it to the edges. It will dry stuck as hell. Sure the trace of soap in the water will hurt the sticking power of the adhesive a slight amount, but it will stay stuck.

Now I do not know how well this works on a pinball machine. Many folks believe that you can use windex as the lube, it does not work. It is not a good surficant that lubes the film. I am just rambling. I bet an overlay has some stretch to it and it would take a delicate touch to not rip or stretch it.

So if there is raw wood water would not help much, and I am not familiar with the overlays. So take this post with a grain of salt. I can make a vid if you like to show the right technique to apply. Also the right tools make a big difference.

http://www.tintsupply.com/tinting-squeegees.htm

The yellow turbo is a bit stiff, but works well. The black smoothie is softer and I would use that one if I was starting out.
 
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im considering offering playfield clearcoating , i think its the best way to go

im wondering what kind of response i would get though
 
im considering offering playfield clearcoating , i think its the best way to go

im wondering what kind of response i would get though

Shipping both ways would run some where between $60 - $80.
Base your labor and materials off of that figure. I suppose asking if this thing will be fisheyeless and smooth as glass afterwards? And certainly not trying to be jerk or doubt your abilities but I would sure as hell pay with a credit card to ensure the transaction would be covered if something were to happen.

And for the record I might be in. I've called so many local auto body repair shops and none of them would consider doing it because of the risk and responsibilty if a failure occured. So many won't even CC a custom motorcycle paint job. Wow - I couldn't believe it.
 
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Shipping both ways would run some where between $60 - $80.
Base your labor and materials off of that figure. I suppose asking if this thing will be fisheyeless and smooth as glass afterwards? And certainly not trying to be jerk or doubt your abilities but I would sure as hell pay with a credit card to ensure the transaction would be covered if something were to happen.

And for the record I might be in. I've called so many local auto body repair shops and none of them would consider doing it because of the risk and responsibilty if a failure occured. So many won't even CC a custom motorcycle paint job. Wow - I couldn't believe it.


well, if it makes you feel better ill have my associates in automotive restoration VERY soon:)

and there will be no fish eyes! or orange peel!, and i think you hit the nail on the head with labor, because most people dont realize the there is still 2 steps left after the clearcoat cures! and this will be where the quality comes from,

the benefit from doing this

1. no future damage to pf

2. pf will look georgeous

3. gameplay will be faster, without clumsy balls from uneven surface(inserts this means you!)

4. almost zero pf maintainence, just take a terrycloth every so often to "dust" it


as for price i haven't decided that yet, feel free to pm me with sugestions

im also considering offering components and rebuild kits for several era boards (depending of availability)

feel free to chime in with thoughts!

sorry to highjack the op;s thread!!!!!!

dc
 
Im up for knowing someone that does simply clearcoating not 'restoration' for a reasonable price. If the price is right, and photos and experience prove its worth the risk, I would consider you for clearing the ES playfield I have been working on. Its my first I'm not scared of the 'restore' or teardown, but for some reason the CC and toxicity factor scare me. I dont plan on restoring any other pf's the cost of proper equipment as well as having unused chemical to deal with is not something I care to deal with.

As for the origional topic. I have no experience on this, but for me the playfield would have to be well past a state of being able to do touch ups and covering the touch up with mylar before I would consider an overlay. I feel more comfortable with attempting a restore with paint rather than an overlay, but thats me.
 
Clear coating a playfield only is pretty easy. The skill is on playfields that require airbrushing, touchups and repairs. Then it's sealed in with clear coating.

Any of your REAL playfield restoration companies, like HSA Pinball, Playfield Renovations or Bill Davis will tell you that MOST of our business is on playfields that require repairs/airbrushing and very little of our business is just the easy clear coat only jobs. Even NOS playfields require mylar removal, drilling, and some basic touchups before doing the clear coating.

If DC2010 wants to get in the business of playfield restoration then more power to him. It's a lot more work than he thinks. Send him your ES (Earthshaker NOS) playfield and see if he can handle the special steps REQUIRED to clear coat on sys11 playfields.

Here are some pictures of what a playfield restoration is:

http://www.hsapinball.com/HSA_PINBALL/Restorations_Examples/Restorations_Examples.html
 
Clear coating a playfield only is pretty easy. The skill is on playfields that require airbrushing, touchups and repairs. Then it's sealed in with clear coating.

Any of your REAL playfield restoration companies, like HSA Pinball, Playfield Renovations or Bill Davis will tell you that MOST of our business is on playfields that require repairs/airbrushing and very little of our business is just the easy clear coat only jobs. Even NOS playfields require mylar removal, drilling, and some basic touchups before doing the clear coating.

If DC2010 wants to get in the business of playfield restoration then more power to him. It's a lot more work than he thinks. Send him your ES (Earthshaker NOS) playfield and see if he can handle the special steps REQUIRED to clear coat on sys11 playfields.

Here are some pictures of what a playfield restoration is:

http://www.hsapinball.com/HSA_PINBALL/Restorations_Examples/Restorations_Examples.html

no need to to assume,

if i can take a mangled mess of a car and make it beautiful , a playfield? piece of cake

you dont know me, ive never said anything to you, in fact if you read my post i stated its more work than most think, so yeah send me that e.s

for the record, im not trying to take business FROM ANYONE, even those ive never spoke to

but dont assume what YOU dont know....

airbrushing, touch-ups, are you serious? ,

just because i didnt mention restoration does not mean i can't/won't do it!




you can cc playfields but do you have the SKILL to cc a complete vehicle?....

dc
 
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I run an auto body shop. We do cars in the day and I do playfields at night. We have a real down draft spray booth, Sata guns and all the other equipment found at a shop.

Spraying clear on a car is different than doing a playfield. You can not treat all playfields the same. A different process is used on EM playfields vs Williams sys11 vs WPC (newer) playfields.

If you want to get into the playfield restoration business that is fine. What I am saying is that it's different than painting a car.
 
once again you are assuming that i dont know


your original post was a clear attempt to imply im uneducated and unable to do a quality restoration,

you have all of 10 posts here, you clearly dont know me, why you needed to attack me only you know


but let me assure you......I CAN DO, PERIOD
 
You should put up some pictures of your work. I do not know you either but I can tell you many people that clear playfields put way too much clearcoat on them. Many of us that get playfields clearcoated and go that extra length to restore our games need good proof of a restorer's work before sending a playfield out.
 
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