FS: Mortal Kombat PCBs

shilmover

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Still trying to get the sound working on the MK2 board. In the meantime, I have the following for sale. I am basing the prices on the ranges given to me on my other thread.

Ultimate Mortal Kombat 3, Rev 1.2. Working. ($75 plus shipping) -- Pending
Mortal Kombat 4, Rev 3. Working. $125 plus shipping

If you think that is too high, make a reasonable offer...
 
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LMAO!! I did not know they were Jamma. Im going to go look at my machine. Thats Awesome.
 
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I have an original MKI cab with a MKI board, harness, etc. and recently picked up a working MKII board set. The MKII has the need for a different kick harness and I had no place to plug in the speakers... :mad:
 
They switched the MK1 boards out halfway through the run. Some of the cabs/boards are the setup they used for MKII, so it'll plug and play. If you have one of the older boards, it plugs up completely differently. I once wired one of the 'old' mk1 boards up using the mk2 wiring setup, and somehow had 5v running to one of the kick buttons. If you pressed the button it shorted the board out and reset it. Luckily it didn't fry anything! So ever since then I've been really careful to figure out which board set is which.
 
They switched the MK1 boards out halfway through the run. Some of the cabs/boards are the setup they used for MKII, so it'll plug and play. If you have one of the older boards, it plugs up completely differently. I once wired one of the 'old' mk1 boards up using the mk2 wiring setup, and somehow had 5v running to one of the kick buttons. If you pressed the button it shorted the board out and reset it. Luckily it didn't fry anything! So ever since then I've been really careful to figure out which board set is which.

Thanks for the post.
 
They switched the MK1 boards out halfway through the run. Some of the cabs/boards are the setup they used for MKII, so it'll plug and play. If you have one of the older boards, it plugs up completely differently. I once wired one of the 'old' mk1 boards up using the mk2 wiring setup, and somehow had 5v running to one of the kick buttons. If you pressed the button it shorted the board out and reset it. Luckily it didn't fry anything! So ever since then I've been really careful to figure out which board set is which.

just to elaborate here :)

what he speaks of, MK1 revisions 1.0-4.0 shipped with the Midway Y-unit boardset (like Smash TV, High Impact Football, Total Carnage, a slew of others...) which uses its own kick harness.

then, at revision 4.0, Midway switched to the newer T-unit boardset (like NBA Jam, MK2, and uh... that was it really) that uses the same kick harness as MK2. revision 5.0 was only seen on the T-unit board, so if you have a 5.0 it's a T-unit, and actually the game will say on the boot screen if it's T-unit or not.

I've found the easiest way to differentiate the two is by the size, the T-units are larger. the Y-unit I've found has the name of hardware designer "RAYMOND GAY" silkscreened in the edge. possibly the easiest of all, is the Y-unit's backup battery is directly next to the 2 banks of dipswitches, whereas the T-unit has a couple of white headers (I think these are for extra coin door wiring) below the dipswitch banks.

contrary to what's been said here (sorta) MK2, (U)MK3, and MK4 all use the same kind of kick harness -- only difference is MK2's factory Player 3 harness could be missing the wires that would go to the Run buttons. it's not difficult to mod a factory MK2 kick harness to allow the runs, but as per what's been mentioned above, make sure you put the wires on the right pins. :)
 
just to elaborate here :)

what he speaks of, MK1 revisions 1.0-4.0 shipped with the Midway Y-unit boardset (like Smash TV, High Impact Football, Total Carnage, a slew of others...) which uses its own kick harness.

then, at revision 4.0, Midway switched to the newer T-unit boardset (like NBA Jam, MK2, and uh... that was it really) that uses the same kick harness as MK2. revision 5.0 was only seen on the T-unit board, so if you have a 5.0 it's a T-unit, and actually the game will say on the boot screen if it's T-unit or not.

I've found the easiest way to differentiate the two is by the size, the T-units are larger. the Y-unit I've found has the name of hardware designer "RAYMOND GAY" silkscreened in the edge. possibly the easiest of all, is the Y-unit's backup battery is directly next to the 2 banks of dipswitches, whereas the T-unit has a couple of white headers (I think these are for extra coin door wiring) below the dipswitch banks.

contrary to what's been said here (sorta) MK2, (U)MK3, and MK4 all use the same kind of kick harness -- only difference is MK2's factory Player 3 harness could be missing the wires that would go to the Run buttons. it's not difficult to mod a factory MK2 kick harness to allow the runs, but as per what's been mentioned above, make sure you put the wires on the right pins. :)

Just to elaborate on the differences between the Y-Unit and T-Unit hardware. The ROM layout on each board is different. The T-Unit will look a lot like a MKII board as far as the ROM layout is concerned.
 
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