From Nothing to Donkey Kong... sort of

I also put on the DK Joystick Guard. The problem was that I thought it was supposed to be FLUSH with the overlay. It actually sticks up about 1/4 of an inch. See the pic. Not sure if this is correct or not????

The joystick guard should be flush with the cpo.
That's why most don't use one since it rubs on the cpo and scratches it.
I wish I had known you were going to buy the bezel instruction sticker and the .25 and insert coin stickers.
This old game has the best ones.
You might want to get some true flat T-Molding from chomping quarters,it is the best out there.
You can get 20ft,enough for the entire cab,or just 2ft for the cp.
 
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There's a clear rubber tube/hose bit that is on the joystick shaft. About 1/3" long. Cut it off or slide it up, then reinstall joystick guard. The intention of the tube bit is to retain the joystick guard against the cpo, causing friction that adds to the scratching. I usually remove it but you could put a bit of aquarium tubing in it's place if you want.
 
I think I am going to just remove the joystick guard all together. I don't want to scratch up the cp any more than it is.

Well, I took about 5 min to install both of the stickers. DK Long Instruction and Coin.
The Coin was easy. Just center the sticker and then measure 2 1/4 from the top. Boom, you have your coin sticker.

Since there wasn't a specific measurement for placing the DK Long Instruction sticker, I looked at tons of cab pics. Generally they were all over on the left side below the bezel. Many people replied that it was basically centered from the joystick. So that is what I did. It actually works out that the sticker ENDS right at the end of the PLAYER 1 button.

I still need T-molding, but it is time to switch gears and work on the guts.
 

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Big thanks to Jimkirk as the Sanyo frame arrived today.
Going to move the Pentranic monitor to the Sanyo frame.
 

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Monitor installed. Took about an hour and a half.
The Pentranic monitor almost perfectly fits the Sanyo Frame. However it is a little short on the side by about a half inch. So I am going to work on ensuring it is level and straight. Other than that, everything fit perfectly.
 

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I decided that I wanted to make this machine look EXACTLY like an original DK

You need a Sanyo monitor then if this is your goal.

You could also buy another control panel and restore it but have 2 buttons installed on it and swap them out as needed. Very easy to do.
 
You need a Sanyo monitor then if this is your goal.

You could also buy another control panel and restore it but have 2 buttons installed on it and swap them out as needed. Very easy to do.

Yeah, I can't afford to buy another Monitor (Sanyo). Plus, I don't think it would work with the power supply I have since it requires 100.

That is a great idea about the control panel. I had not thought of it. I might just do without the few games that use 2 buttons. Good suggestion though!

At this point I have everything I need. I am just kinda nervous to hook everything up. I am afraid of frying the monitor or board by not grounding something correctly...!
I did a lot of looking for a great "How to" but really have found nothing that fits what I am dealing with. The Real Bob Roberts is close, but doesn't give me everything I need.
 
Hooked up the Coin Selector (Free Play). I also hooked up the speaker. The Sanyo speaker had the original DK wiring so I had to lop off the end of each cord and splice them together. I fired up the game and the sound was excellent!
The only problem is that the monitor is not powering on..... dead monitor? Not happy.
 

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Alright.... with LOTS of frustration, I finally go the new monitor into the cab and hooked up. It's running and that makes me feel great!!
It is a VGA WG monitor, and it looks fantastic!
The problem came in having to mount it. It didn't fit the cab obviously so I tried to put it into a SANYO frame. That was a pain. It didn't match the holes and I had to rig it. I was able to screw one side down and then used some heavy duty twisty ties for the other four. It actually is really strong. I will post some pics of that later. For now, here are some running pics.


I still need to get a bezel to go around the monitor, PCB feet to go with my board and some new T-molding.

As for the pics, I know some of you may think it is an abomination to have Pac Man playing on this thing, but I can't tell you how happy I am to be able to play all of these other games. As I will never have the money or space to own a quarter of these, it's great to be able to play them!
 

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Great job... looks very nice. Now, replace that t-molding and decide on your next project! I saw bezels somewhere (my garage?) and if that would work, you can have one.
 
LOL! Yeah, I gotta do the T molding. If you have a black bezel let me know and I will swing by to pick it up from you. Otherwise I will run to a craft store and buy some heavy paper to do it.

For the next project I was thinking Punch Out!!
I know Chris sold a ton of it, but that might be the next one down the road.
 
Oh snap... I forgot that the DK used a black paper type bezel.
I have some of those rigid plastic ones... probably wouldn't look right... maybe wouldn't even fit.
Better to hit up "Michaels".
 
I'm missing that piece, too. I've got the piece that goes above/behind the monitor, but not the one that goes around the screen.

Do you have measurements for it? (Not that it would be hard to guess.)

-Jim
 
Oh snap... I forgot that the DK used a black paper type bezel.
I have some of those rigid plastic ones... probably wouldn't look right... maybe wouldn't even fit.
Better to hit up "Michaels".

I used one of those abs monitor surrounds.
I trimmed the edges to fit and then trimmed the area around the tube.
With the tinted bezel you can't even tell.
I mounted some horizontal monitor brackets I had lying around and used screws to hold it in place.
 
I am going to measure it and do it this weekend. I will post some pics of it. I am going to start at Michaels, which is a large craft store here. If they have something nice, I am going to do it.
 
Finally got to doing the Black Monitor Bezel. I went to Michaels and purchased a piece of black matting for $5.99. I then measured out 22 1/2 wide by 26 long and cut. Once that was done, I measured out the monitor. It was difficult to do and I didn't get an accurate cut like I wanted. However, you really can't tell at all. Once you place the Marquee Bezel over, the only thing that shows up is the monitor.

I also purchased some PCB Feet and mounted it to the inside of the cab.

Last step, the T Molding!
 

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Good job.
If you ever make one again cut the part for the monitor first then trim the edges to fit.
That way the part around the monitor will be right up to the screen.
 
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