Frogger sync question

[jimbodeanny]

Update:

I decided to reflow the solder on the pins for the 3pin, negative sync section of the chassis. Then I recrimped new connectors to the sync wire(s) for the 3pin connector to ensure that there was a good connection getting to the chassis. Still no luck. I was able to briefly get the picture stable, but a little more than a breeze on the h. freq and it would be off again. I also noticed that periodically, there would be a couple tiny black squiggly lines running down the side of the picture. It would only last for a brief moment and then be gone for a bit before returning again.

Also, I tried plugging just the h. neg sync into the chassis and then just the v. neg sync. I image didn't change much with either of them, however I was able to get the image to stabilize very briefly when just the v. neg sync was attached. Weird.

I'm still clueless and very lost. I might try replacing the IC501. Bob Roberts told me that "96% of the time it is just mis-wiring the sync or bad connections, 3% the IC HA11244 & 1% one of the 4 sync amps 2SC1815 being bad." So I don't know what to do.

Suggestions?

 

[jimbodeanny]

I just pulled out the "original" harness that came with the original Frogger board that I bought and I noticed that the sync appears to be wired differently. The harness that's in my cabinet looks very similar to this one, but it only has one wire coming off B14 (the negative sync) as noted in the pinout on Mike's site (http://www.mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/spies.cgi?action=url&type=pinout&page=Frogger.txt)

However, this "original" harness has a white wire coming out of A12 and a yellow wire coming out of A15. The pinout doesn't have any information regarding these two pin locations. Would these be for positive sync?

 

[jimbodeanny]

UPDATE:

Well I decided to try out the positive sync by using the other harness as a guide. I wired the two wires to the positive h and v sync pins on the 6 pin connector, fired it up and got about the same results as with the neg. Rolling image that I could slow down and stabilize VERY briefly.

So now I'm beginning to wonder if I should replace the IC501 and/or transistors?

 

[Dokert]

Test the G07 in question with one of your other games. If it locks up sync using another game, then it is your wiring in your Frogger cab. If it doesn't sync up, then you have a monitor issue.

 

[jimbodeanny]

It's a real PITA for me to move my games around, get to a cabinet, rewire the monitor to fit the molexes and wiring just to test a monitor.

I'm already 99% sure it's not the wiring because it worked perfectly fine with another monitor.

 

[Dokert]

It's a real PITA for me to move my games around, get to a cabinet, rewire the monitor to fit the molexes and wiring just to test a monitor.

I'm already 99% sure it's not the wiring because it worked perfectly fine with another monitor.

I am 100% sure that what I have suggested is easier than beating your head against the wall and shotgunning parts into a G07.

But what the hell do I know, all of my games work correctly.

 

[jimbodeanny]

I am 100% sure that what I have suggested is easier than beating your head against the wall and shotgunning parts into a G07.

But what the hell do I know, all of my games work correctly.

Point made. I'll see if I can test it out on my Centipede.

 

[jimbodeanny]

Ok. I just tested the G07 on my Centipede and the monitor had the same sync problems, so now I know it's the G07 and not the wiring. Both the positive and negative syncs appear to have the same problems.

So now the question is, where do I go from here? Should I replace those 4 transistors/sync amps or go for the IC501? Is there a way to test them to see if they are good/bad?

 

[Dokert]

Tough call, could be either and there is no real good way of testing either of them. Pretty much a coin toss at this point. Save yourself the shipping costs and order both.

 

[OldWilly]

Yeah, for the cost you're better off ordering them both, but my bet is the IC, since you have neither vert or horz sync.

 

[OldWilly]

I just pulled out the "original" harness that came with the original Frogger board that I bought and I noticed that the sync appears to be wired differently. The harness that's in my cabinet looks very similar to this one, but it only has one wire coming off B14 (the negative sync) as noted in the pinout on Mike's site (http://www.mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/spies.cgi?action=url&type=pinout&page=Frogger.txt)

However, this "original" harness has a white wire coming out of A12 and a yellow wire coming out of A15. The pinout doesn't have any information regarding these two pin locations. Would these be for positive sync?

On your board set #834-0086 pin 14 should be composite sync.
There were several different frogger boards and the wiring was different.

Board set 834-0086
Red = pin R (red)
Green = pin P (green)
Blue = pin 13 (blue)
Ground = pin U (black)
sync (comp) = pin 14 (wht/blue)
sync (vert) = pin N (white)
sync (horz) = pin 5 (yellow)

 

[jimbodeanny]

UPDATE:

Okay so good news! The IC501 and sync transistors showed up today. I replaced the IC501 and WALA! Frogger synced right up like it should. I didn't replace the 4 transistors (yet) since the IC501 fixed that issue.

I've got it tweaked as best I can and to my liking. Overall, I'm happy with it. BUT...I do have a little issue with the picture. On the left side of the picture there are these little squiggly lines that run up and down (technically it would be horizontally since the monitor is mounted vertically.) They're very inconsistent, sometimes there are several, sometimes just one faint one and then sometimes there won't be any and the picture will be fine for minutes on end.

Anyone have any ideas as to what this is and how to fix it? I'm hoping it's something simple as I've spent so much time on this thing already and so close to finishing!

 

[OldWilly]

Good news....
Without a pic it's hard to say, but check if there is a field ground on your monitor frame and remove it is there or try adding it if it's not there... I've seen them cause issues.
Also if you are using an iso transformer make sure it's not mounted too close to the monitor.
Your power supply can also introduce noise into the monitor so check all the connections.

 

[Dantebean]

Ok so now I got my sync fixed I have major waves and a cut screen. A lot of shaking once a screen change happens. What am I missing now?

 

[Dantebean]

Monitor pic and sync conn with white and yellow removed. I had yellow in middle and white on far right 3 pin neg. still have waves after checking all connections.

 

[Dantebean]

Absolutely nothing wrong with board. Plugged into roc n rope and everything runs. This is a pure monitor or my monitor hookup issue.

 

[Dantebean]

Well I did a complete swap of monitors from roc n rope to frogger and still same effect. So it has something to do with the wiring or power in my frogger cabinet. I will now transplant the rock n rope wiring and power to the frogger cabinet. If this doesn't work I will have games for sale because this hobby may not be for me. I've had 3 working games in front of me and can't play them because of some minor hiccup. Venting over.

 

[Dokert]

Frogger used some 26+ different monitors and only documented 4. They sync combinations will depend mostly on which boardset you have, as there are two different boardsets and 4 different sync options in the wiring.

Identify the boardset, and verify the wiring first.

 

[Dantebean]

Frogger used some 26+ different monitors and only documented 4. They sync combinations will depend mostly on which boardset you have, as there are two different boardsets and 4 different sync options in the wiring.

Identify the boardset, and verify the wiring first.

G07 monitor, Konami board. I'm performing surgery on both cabs. I need this game working and out of shop so I can purchase a working game. Tired of full garage and no arcade yet.

 

[Peale]

Which G07? CBO? CFO?