Frogger G07. Picture too low. How do I move it up?!

BTW - why am I messing with this still?!?! My picture looks fine now!!! :)

Does the last picture look wrong to you!?
 
Ok, the wire coming off of (parts side) pin 14 is blue with a white stripe. This wire, along with R,G,B, Black, White, and Yellow all go to a MOLEX. Here's where it gets interesting....

The blue with white stripe wire ENDS at the molex. It does not continue to the 6 pin molex that connects to the monitor. Only the R,G,B,B,W, and Y make it there!!!!!!

So.... What the hell does Yellow and White DO? If pin 14 (parts side) is composite sync, then how is this monitor in sync without it?!
 
blkdog7 said:
I did it just like the picture you posted!!!!! You said "If it doesn't look like this then it's wrong". Well, I did it like that!

So, do I use the yellow or the white wire? What pin does it go on according to your picture? Pin 1, Pin 2, or Pin 3???

Also, I did the curl mod. I still got the damn curl!
Click to expand...

Sorry, didn't mean to mislead you with Bob's pic....
Get out your multimeter and figure out which wire goes to pin 14 on the board edge connector. Connect that to -H (pin 3) and loop that so the signal also goes to -V (pin2). Pin 1 is GND, and that is already hooked up on the other connector, so you don't have to worry about that.
And the curl mod only works if you're using negative sync (it doesn't modify the positive section, so that's why you haven't seen any benefit yet).
 
blkdog7 said:
Ok, the wire coming off of (parts side) pin 14 is blue with a white stripe. This wire, along with R,G,B, Black, White, and Yellow all go to a MOLEX. Here's where it gets interesting....

The blue with white stripe wire ENDS at the molex. It does not continue to the 6 pin molex that connects to the monitor. Only the R,G,B,B,W, and Y make it there!!!!!!

So.... What the hell does Yellow and White DO? If pin 14 (parts side) is composite sync, then how is this monitor in sync without it?!
Click to expand...

Sounds like it also has separate H and V sync (and quite possibly positive polarity :D). I wonder where those are output... pin 15 and pin S maybe? Trace them back and see. I'm curious... I don't think my Frogger board has those signals.

If you have a choice of sync signals, you might want to go with the negative composite sync... I have a feeling you'll get better results. There's a reason why that's all you see in modern games.
 
Last edited:
mattosborn said:
Sounds like it also has separate H and V sync (and quite possibly positive polarity :D). I wonder where those are output... pin 15 and pin S maybe? Trace them back and see. I'm curious... I don't think my Frogger board has those signals.

If you have a choice of sync signals, you might want to go with the negative composite sync... I have a feeling you'll get better results. There's a reason why that's all you see in modern games.
Click to expand...

Well, I did what you suggested and it does work. I am using the single sync wire from pin 14. And, jumpering it to pin 2 on the molex. HOWEVER, the CURL is 20 x worse!!!

The position of the picture is exactly how it was!

In regards to the Yellow and white wires...

One of the wires goes to pin 15 and the other player 1 button 3.

I'm going back to 6 wires, one connecter. The picture was better!!
 
Last edited:
I think we just discovered that the crazy kong pinouts are not 100% correct!

The game has both kinds of sync!!!
 
blkdog7 said:
Well, I did what you suggested and it does work. I am using the single sync wire from pin 14. And, jumpering it to pin 2 on the molex. HOWEVER, the CURL is 20 x worse!!!

The position of the picture is exactly how it was!

In regards to the Yellow and white wires...

One of the wires goes to pin 15 and the other player 1 button 3.

I'm going back to 6 wires, one connecter. The picture was better!!
Click to expand...

Did you adjust the horiz freq pot once you hooked up the neg sync?
 
mattosborn said:
Did you adjust the horiz freq pot once you hooked up the neg sync?
Click to expand...

No, I did not! But, to get rid of the curl I would have had to move the picture DOWN. That's not what I want! :)

Honestly, the picture looks near perfect to me now. Just a little curl on the bottom right only. It only effects the TIME bar.
 
blkdog7 said:
I think we just discovered that the crazy kong pinouts are not 100% correct!

The game has both kinds of sync!!!
Click to expand...

Correct. I just checked my Frogger board and the separate sync signals are hacked to the edge connector at the positions you said. You'll find a series of jumper wires on the back side of the board that get these signals to the edge connector.
Another benefit of using the negative sync is that you can swap another Konami-classic pinout game in there for some occasional variety. Amidar, Loco-Motion, etc.
 
blkdog7 said:
I have played it. At Funspot. It's a crazy game. Doesn't it need a button?
Click to expand...

Yeah, you can just tie Button 1 to one of the Start buttons (the cleanest/easiest way is to just run a little jumper wire connecting the two at the board harness).
Might be a little weird with the Frogger CP since the Start buttons are on the front edge, but I think that will work OK with Amidar (as the Jump button is not something you're constantly mashing like a fire button).
 
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