Frogger - dumb question

That80sGuy

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ok. I picked up a Sega Frogger for 50 bucks off of craigslist this weekend. The game plays blind and after checking the fuses F902 is blown. The manual for the monitor doesn't list the value for that fuse...it lists F901 but not F902. The fuse itself is hard to read.. I think it says 'SOC800mA'. Can anyone confirm this value and the best place to find one. I will be ordering a cap kit from Bob Roberts..maybe he has a few.

Thanks!
 
800ma pigtail fuse. Bob also sells these individually but sounds like you should order the kit. That fuse usually blows when you have a bad flyback and/or hot.
 
I'll go the full monty on the monitor then.

Thanks!
 
DRAT!! Bob informed me that he can't get flybacks for the MC-2000 anymore.

I guess I'll have to swap in another monitor if I can't find a used working chasis for the original. :(
 
Zanen didn't have any either. He suggested Eldorado Games. They have working chasis listed on their site..at 99.00 ea plus 15.00 s/h with a core exchange.
 
Well I found a place that sells flybacks..and they have one for the Nanao.

mshifac13a.jpg


Opinions? It looks the same. The pin-out matches. So should I go ahead and order or is there anything I should check to be sure its the right one?
 
I don't want the guy to sell out before I get mine. LOL

http://www.technotronic-dimensions.com/Products2b1.html


So I ordered one. Shipping is included in the price if you are in the contenintal US. Plus there is a 5 day return policy if there is a problem.

The cap kit is on its way as well from Bob..so I should get everything around the same time!!

Frogger should be hopping across higways and rivers very soon!!
 
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Well I got that Flyback finally on friday and was excited to opent the box. It looked smaller than the original but still promising.


But then...


Obviously it doesn't sit right on the board and the only reason I was able to get it to sit like that was because I had removed the diode that sat next to the FB because it looked suspect and might need replaceing.

Soo we'll see how this company handles returns.
 
I suppose I could.....But If this flyback blows then I'm out 80 bucks.

Also in the cap kit I got from Bob R the cap at C523 is different thant the one that came off the board. I pulled a 47uf 50V and Bobs replacement is listed as a 100uf 50V.

Can anyone confirm which one is correct, because the schems I have list it as a 47uf 50V.

Also..can anyone tell me what is located at L503? The schems read it as a Linear device. In fact you can see it on the corner of the chasis in the above pictures..its that off white cylinder with a corroded green jumper wire next to it.
 
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Differences in Sega MC-2000S vs my chasis MC-2000R

Ok so after doing the cap kit I found some differences.

Sega MC-2000S vs my chasis MC-2000R

1. When I went to install the cap at C501..on my chasis it was never installed.

2. The kit calls for a 100uf 50V cap at C523..but on my chasis the cap I pulled was a 47uf 50V and that was confirmed in the schematics I have.

3. The kit calls for a 470uf 16V at location C412..but on my chasis the cap pulled was a 470uf 63V and that was also in the schematics.

Everything else matched up. I guess I have a different revision of chasis.

Anyone ever encounter this revision?
 
OK..more research yields a new product

Ok.. Now this is cool. This company in Austrailia has developed a complete Universal Replacement Chassis for 13" to 21" Monitors.

http://www.jomac.net.au/parts.htm <- Scroll down to the bottom

The best part is that the price after converting from AU dollars is only about 113.00 US. Basically not much more than I paid for a replacement flyback that doesn't fit!

Obviously shipping will be a pain.. but it could be a real solution. You would have a newer chasis built with modern components that are easier to find and replace should anything fail.

I'm going to contact them and get some more info.
 
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.. but it could be a real solution. You would have a newer chasis built with modern components that are easier to find and replace should anything fail.
...

Be careful- just because something is newer doesn't mean that replacement parts would be easier to find. Your flyback is a good point, but most of the old monitor chassis are well documented and common enough to get good troubleshooting feedback on.


.... or you could just pull the monitor out of that Bump 'N Jump and sell it without the monitor (!)

K
 
Well I just ordered some more parts from Bob. After replaceing caps I noticed that one right next to the flyback was toasted bad..it might have smoked making it look like the flyback was gone. I had to remove the cage that was around the flyback in order to replace it and thats when I noted the crispy cap at C524. The diode sitting next to it didn't look good either so I ordered a replacement just in case.

I wonder if the parts list in the manual is mis-printed and Bobs kit is correct. Because if someone previously repaired this chasis based on the manual and it was wrong...hmmmm.

But then again..Why doesn't my board have a cap at C501?
 
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OK..now

After a couple e-mails with BobR..I just went with using what was in the kit. I hooked everything back up with the old Flyback installed and powered the game up

First thing there was sizzleing and crackling comming from the flyback but the caps and fuses held..then a poof of smoke came out from under the flyback and that was it. So I cut the power.

At least now I know I only need a fly back...if I can find one. LOL

Should I try the one I bought???
 
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Ok.. I'm gonna risk it. For all you KLOVers out there looking for a flyback for your Nanao chasis..this is for you guys

Stay tuned because we will have an answer shortly.
 
SUCCESS!!! I have a BLURRY picture!!

So far I have been unsuccessful at adjusting the monitor though... I can get brightness but nothing affect the focus. I can't really tell if a video signal is making it to the screen.
I kind of see a green bar across the top and bottom..and when you coin up a game I THINK I see something..but its soooo blurry its almost a blank screen. I hope the tube isn't shot. DOH!

But on the bright side the chasis seems to be working.
 
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